yeah the Go Motor has already taken Europe and the US by storm. The trickle down effect is reaching Australia and pretty soon , once people realise that they out last most other engines on the market as well as out perform they will become a very popular choice.

hey guys just got a 7port
can you run this with 30%
out of the box or does it have to be shimmed

You wanna put at least .6 total shims

is that three gold shims
also i needed to rotate the carb to fit in my losi 8
and now it will not tighten back the screw is tight but the carb is still moving
what do i for this problem, this is a new engine
i cant remove the carb either

You will have to check the shims with a vernier , they can vary in thickness . So you want .6 mm in total

Re the carb its hard without seeing it but id completely remove the screw and try to tap out the retaining collets ... that should let the carb come out , gently twist the carb round while pulling it out . once you have it out you can better tell what part needs replacing

hope this helps

i'm starting to wonder if they'll ever have any .12s and onroad engines...?

No .12 on road motors in the pipe line at this stage . We have developed a version of the .21 7 Port for on road .

i'm debating on which engines of theirs I wanna sell. The 5 port .21 and 7 port are no brainers... but I'm debating on the 3 port .28 and 5 port .28 as well. My assumption is that the 5 port is going to do laps around the 3 port.

The carb neck is a metal bush over the plastic case. The metal is secured in position by plastic bushes for lack of a better word. When you twist the carb and you have not loosened it enough the plastic retainers(bushes) snaps off and the whole carb just spins inside the metal bush. It does not matter how tight the make the tensioner.
I tried superglue, it works for a while. I normally chuck the carb it just causes problems with the linkage setup as the carb moves when braking.

i wonder if thats one of the older carbs ? can you take some pics ?

Here is all the versions of the carbs. Note the plastics round part in the metal sleeve.

OK whats your Throttle servo ? have you set the end points ? not meaning to piss in your pocket because i dont know your experience with this but a high torque servo and no end points will eventually cause some sort of malfunction of the carb.

So youre saying the metal sleeve has come loose of the plastic inner ? so when you tighten it its obviously just holding onto the steel sleeve as opposed to the whole assembly ?

Hi All

I have had a few enquiries regarding engines leaning out after a jump, this will be beneficial to racers and bashers alike. What you find is when you gas it off a jump the idle rips up bringing the nose up, then you compensate with brake to tip it back .. sometimes this dosent always work out.. Especially those with sensative brakes. Most people will notice this happen suddenly after a few litres of run time and go everywhere looking for the leak ... Everywhere but the CARB BOOT ! ( dramatic orchestral stab ) OOOH ! pennies dropping ?

What happens is the carb boot is probably not made of a quality nitrol base and will soften and expand , this can happen on any engine as it is expensive to make one from nitrol .. about 11 cents more per unit !

SO ! what you need to do is seal the carb boot with a small thin cable tie where it reaches the carb stopping any air getting in ... You can put a dab of silicone around the base before the cable tie if you like , this should eliminate the problem , if it dosent then check it closely for tears and replace.

NOW ! why does it cause this problem ?

What happens is when you jump you are essentially clearing all excess fuel out of the engine , leaving not much in there, when you are in the air and the throttle is at neutral its closing the carb. The residual suction of an empty engine scavenges for fuel, if the boot is loose the air will be re directed through the side and by pass the inlet . that suction is wasted and creates a lean engine till you blip it again.

Now there are other problems that can cause these symptoms so make sure if you have it to check everything .

Hope this helps !

Cheers MassiveMods

I have been trying to tune my GO-7+2 mod with no luck. It has a 3 needle carb. My problem is that when cold it is hard to start, so I have to lean it out to get it to Stay running.
After it warms up, I have to richen it back up to gain power. Once warm And I re-fuel it, it runs way rich with no power and as the tank runs half empty it starts running full power. Then as the tank gets empty I start to loose power again.
I can not keep it in tune. I seem to fight it the whole tank of fuel. It’s been like this from new. I have about ¾ gal of 25% thru it now and still fighting this problem.

The lsn I have way out almost too where the seal is showing or it idles way to lean. The hsn is almost flush; I never touched the midd range needle. This is getting very discouraging to try and race when the motor will not tune.

hmmm. as i was breaking in my engine i found i had the same problem, and even after break in it did the same thing. i put myt issues down to the fact i was using a number 6 LRP plug, wereas with my os v spec i used a OS number 3.

try your plug, and go to a hotter one (at your own risk of course!, make sure the plug is suitable to the ambient conditions).

i found when i was waiting on the line of the start of a race the car bogged down by a hell of alot. Again though the engine was new, but i will be attempting to tune it this week, and get back to you and report if i have similar issues.

i will be sealing up the car boot (or buying a OS .21 boot and also sealing up, just to be sure) and i will use a number 3 OS plug. as opposed to your issues, once my engine got going it seemed fine, but did sound rather eratic going off jumps, but i put this down to a new engine and a bad tune:confused: but who knows. my engine is also still very tight, so i was putting down the tune issues to the fact the engine was new. is your engine still ocking up on the box?