sorry didn't know there was already a thread created..doh...actually i didn't/couldn't find it :sweat:

here are my pics

as a keen new owner of this "new" brand, i'll post some pictures of my motor.

here they are;
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/IMG_0338.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/IMG_0331.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/IMG_0327.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/IMG_0325.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/IMG_0320.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/IMG_0313.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/IMG_0307.jpg

i haven't used it yet, but i have heard good things. ask away, and lets get GO-ing :lol: :p
this engine in Australia is available through www.massivemods.com he is also the distributor as well ;)

my only qualm with the engine is the branding, lol, the logo looks sort of cheesy :lol: but it's the ontrack performance that counts :sneaky: i heard this motor is very reliable, and quick! i have a OS V spec to compare it against so we will soon see. ;) ...i'm sure i won't be disapointed.

I'm Jealous, I didn't get any stickers with mine :flaming:

But then I did get mine for substantially less than retail. :lol:

i just realised mine was a standard plug version. i think the turbo button plug is an optional extra. so just keep this in mind when you buy the engine. ;)

Look at that build quality ! And these motors run efficiently ! We got close to 12 mins to a tank on our fuel in the NSW Off road titles last year !

We have sold almost 40 engines in the last 2 weeks ! Its going insane !

Hey TomB you take nice pics , i like the lighting man ..

Cheers MM

sorry about the pics man, i couldn't get a clean shot of the sleeve. i took it at night under a lamp, and had to play around with the white balance to get a clean white colour.

No i like the lighting "; )

mmmmmmmmm... I havent even started mine yet but I love it. I purchased this engine with no carby, at a rediculously good price mind you. I have a NP5X that I cant be bothered rebuilding and had heard that maybe the carb would fit this motor???? Is this true???

One of our other drivers has one of these with a MM stage 5 I use to be a LRP engine man until I saw this running against a LRP Team .21 with the same mod...

P.S - There is some footage of Darrens GO stage 5 in his LSP running on our new track finished today..4 tanks old mind you, up against the above mentioned!http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivion/rc...%20April07.zip

Also do you have any tips on running in this motor....??? And if I can use the above carby what a good start needle setting would be??

Thanks in advance...
Rob.

If your going to try a different carb, it needs to have a 15mm neck.

The original has that plastic sleeve to isolate the carb from the block heat so the stock carb is an unusual diameter.

They have updated the carb to eliminate the outer plastic sleeve and relocate the idle screw. I don't know about Australia but the entire updated carb sells for $41 in the US.

these engines are Novarossi P5/P5X copies pretty much, im sure timing is changed and some minor porting differences.

Ive been running my 7 port for a few months now and I am forced to take it out on our track. The track is too loose and the Go has so much power that I find it difficult to keep the my buggy planted.
Wicked power. I have not found any other engine that can catch me on the straight. RB C6 is a joke. I call out the RB C6 drivers on the track and challenge them.
What fun I have.

PS Best pipe allround is the HN2047 for any application.

This motor ran perfectly with the Nova P5X carb. I had no probs with run in and can't wait to dial it in at the track 2morrow... I am running the Nova 9886 pipe seems to wive this a real smooth feel compared to friends who are running the RB and LRP pipes.. Ill let you know how it goes after its real test... :)

RB Pipes are novarossi pipes.

Thanks. Im still pretty new to these motors. So are you saying that if you by a nova pipe it is made by RB??

Well I ran the GO 5 port fully tuned at our track this weekend. This engine has incredible midrange torque!! These engines are as fast as most of the top engines running.. Not one flame out all day!!

yeah its the other way around, RB is made by Novarossi, except the TM line of engines.

just a few thoughts about the 5 port.

things used;
-LRP number 6 plug
-massive mods fuel
-option turbo head (i wish these were standard :? )
-extra copper .10mm shim mid way through race day
-JP3 pipe (jammin)
-ofna x1cr team kit

i ran it in, and had my first club day with this engine. after 50 or so minutes racing, it is still not yet broken in.

the engine does not come with enough headshims. MassiveMods brought this to my attention at the track after he realised it could use a bit of help from some extra shims (comes with the headbutton clearance and one copper shim) i added a copper shim to it (.10mm) and it helped the engine a bit, but would still probably need another silver shim as well.

these engines are very tight, and the lack of the shims makes the problem worse i think.

before you run them in, get either a silver and 2 copper shims and wack them in, or use the two shims from the OS engine (if you have one).

the 5 port go seems to be a excellent motor. i ran mine with a JP3 jammin pipe....don't beleive the hype! (or should i say bad press about this pipe) the jammin pipe is excellent with the GO 5 port engine. i also used a werks racing clutch with carbon shoes and the softest spring. worked awesome.

also, with the lrp 6 plug i had very good punch out of the corners, and it ran cool. the engine was still rich-ish though, yet responsive. (had that annoying tingy sound new engines not yet bedded in have, you know the noise.. sounds rough and high pitched when you take of a jump )

the GO ran at about 130 or 135 celcius possibly. my OS runs at 150 or so with a OS 3 plug

as a user, i am thinking of changing the conrod, the engien was just ridiculously, stpidly, annoyingly tight i must admit. After break in, it might be reccomended, or at least give it a thought to change the conrod. im not sure how comon this is in offroad, but in onroad, it is common practice witht he quicker guys to do this after break in. From what massive told me the conrods are pritty cheap though so it might be a good idea

finally!, (sh1t long post) the engine ran almost as quick as my OS (fully broken in), yet my GO is still untuned to race spek tune, and is still not totally broken in!! great engine. with the bits and peices you may want to get (ie turbo button, shims, and conrod) it probably comes to the same if not $20 less than a OS, but honestly, it's just as good, AND QUICKER.

Couldn't agree more with most people's opinions of the GO . My mate's running a Go Tech 7 port in 1/8 ONROAD . It screams !!! Top end is as quick as anything out there at our club (Lilydale) at the mo (includes Sirio's,RB's,CMB's,Mega's etc) . It was lacking out of the turns on Sunday but the motor has only had a couple of litres thru it and hasn't been leaned on yet . Also the clutch setup could have done with some work . [link=http://www.massivemods.com.au/]MASSIVE MODS[/link] in Sydney supplied the motor and did a bit of work to the crank timing I believe and we bolted a TOP Engine cooling head onto it so it didn't get too cold down here in Melbourne but other than that it's standard . I know what I'll be buying next and it ain't no $1000+ Collari !!!

What difference does the extra shims do to the performance?

it reduces the compression of the engine. when i added the .10mm shim i noticed it needed to be re tuned a bit, just keep this in mind. the extra shims will (i think, mark can correct me if i am wrong) will make it idle a little better, and tun a bit cooler as well.

the extra shims also assist in the break in process, as the go's are too tight when new otherwise, i found.

With my 7 port I wanted to reduce the power abit. I'll add some shims for this one.
I am getting my first 5 port 2morrow. I am contemplating should I mod it or not. I really dont think its needed, these engine are so fast you take yourself out the racing game as you struggle to get proper setup for good laptimes. Meanwhile you overpowered and throwing the car all over the place.
I think I will leave this one stock.

GO GO
 

I have a nova P5X carb and 9886 pipe on my GO it holds its tune very well and has not flamed out once since i began tuning it. I run a LRP 6 plug, and use the MASSIVE MODS HB444 25%. At the end of my last final, temp check was 80degC which i believe is too cold?? Its already producing ridiculous power and I really dont feel the need to lean it anymore.

Does anyone know what factors contribute to engine temp being cold apart from the obvious??? And also what the point of turbo heads are??

I have a P5X head and think it will fit straight on the GO, is there something to gain by this??

Thanks in advance....

Thats odd, my 5-port had 2 copper shims on it out of the box.

Hello,

Can anyone tell me what the factory needle settings on a Go 21 7 port are ?

Also how many head shims should engine come with ? Mine had 2 brass shims.

My engine is running well but seemingly a little hot. In 260 - 270 range after a race. Richening causes unsatisfactory power and im pretty sure im not too lean as I get a fair bit more performance still when i lean it further. Im pretty sure I have no air leaks so wondering if adding a shim might bring temps down a bit or if it shoudl just not care becuase the engine is running great. I am running a Go no 5 plug and Massive Mods 25% fuel.

If your engine is still new and tight it will run a tad hotter due to the bedding in process.
I find that the Go 7port like to be approx 1.5 to 2mm below the top of the top end screw and rich on the bottom end. This keeps the temp very constant.
The performance is phenomenal.
Start with the top end srew and adjust the bottom to suit.
ps: adding a shim will make it run cooler.

ummmm how do you read that chart?

does it say that engine is putting out 148hp?

Yes, it's putting out 1.48 corrected Hp at between 24k and 26k rpm's.

The corrected HP is the power thats actually getting to the ground. So when you see one rated at say 2.5hp, thats the HP of the engine without a load.

Started running in my 5 port last nite. I added 1 aluminium shim. I think its .25mm. Definitely makes the running in process easier.
Good advice Tom.
Ive decided not to mod this one. Makes the engine alot better for racing. My modded Go's are just too vicious from the word go.

hey Guys have been reading the forum so far and ill report what i have found with racing my Hyper 7 ( woo Hoo ! ) and a Stock Go tech 5 port

I had a race day last Sunday at LRRCC came 4 th in the A main and besides being really pleased with the day and running of the event i remembered why i love Off Road so much ! I had so much fun, Liverpool has changed a lot over the years with a much friendlier general atmosphere.

Anyhoo Back to the Go Tech

I found the Standard shimming to be to high comp ratio, i blew a few plugs on run in and when i exammined them realised that more shimms were needed, i also put the Turbo button on and it helps considerably. So in total i ran .7 shimms total and turbo head button.

RUN IN

These engines are tight and yes they make a tinny noise on the first start , thats cos they are so tight, so its imperative to pre heat , i ran in on a all castor mix with 20% nitro no synthetic.. This helps with max protection and promotes heat in the motor, First run in should be real hot if you can .

OK So i got it started with alfoil and a sock over the head, ran half a tank at clean HSN setting ( not overly rich) At half throttle constant, then the other half revving up and down . Then i took it out to the test facility MMSTFATAP

On Grass for 1 litre consistant. I basically punished the engine, i leaned it to almost race tune, close to 10 mins to a tank, then caned it on grass and helis on the dirt. I was trying to force the engine to malfunction or blow, needless to say it didnt happen, in fact it just smiled at me and said GIMME MORE !

I dont recommend you do this at home, as the distributor for OZ i have to KNOW the engines limits.

Anyway i used a 13 T CB and a 46 Spur which gave me a really nice and useable power band. I coud line up at the triple on the front straight at Livo about 1.5 to 2 meters from the jump , gun it , and it would over shoot the jump no problem. back straight , same again , line her up and whoosh, it would clear the back double no probls then scream down the back straight, 2/3 down it the engine was still pulling faster.. Great top end , better than what i expected.

Ok Extra shims will lower your torque down low but help top end. The engine had all the torque i needed and some with .7 shimming in there.

The motor ran flawlessly all day long and starting was so easy , one tap on the box and it fired immediately first go every time !

I ran 7 k center diff , front and rear i didnt bother with , i will be going 5 k front i think to give me a little more pull and on power steering. I ran on Proline bad lands for a stir and i actually liked them lol


LRP Turbo # 6 and of course HB 444 .. The engine feels great , ill be keeping you all posted as to what happens to this test engine. I will be happy if i can get 30 litres through it without any maintenance other than cleaning the top of the piston and head button.

Cheers MM

I forgot to mention for all the Temp Gun freaks out there, that when you shim up, ie add shims your head temp reading will go down as its transferred more out the pipe... So dont freak out its just the heat transfer is different ...

Ditto Mark
After I added the one aluminium shim I find that its almost impossible to run the engine too hot. My 5port runs cool, idles consistant and makes exellent power in stock form. I now feel that modding the Go's is just abit too much. I rarely found with my 7 port that I was peaking out. Anyways I like the 7port in my truggy and 5port in my buggy.
I am not using a turbo head as I dont lik using turbo plugs. Always giving tuning hasles and doesnt last long. I dont feel the Go's really needs it IMO.

this is a falacy man. technically, a better seal on the button will give a better tune. the .12 onroad guys had this perception about turbo plugs a few years back, now all onroad guys use turbos without a hassle. Turbo plugs give a better seal, and are just as easy to tune as a normal plug. Ask yourself why would a turbo plug be any harder to tune? i've moved from non turbo to turbo without an issue, and go through less plugs infact with the turbos. ;)

without trying to sound like i am contradicting anyone ill say what i know and leave it at that

Standard and turbo plugs make exactly the same seal.

Turbo plug advantage is a smoother flash front as opposed to standard plug which can protrude into the geo dome, Turbo also have a lower geometric compression which aids top end, at the loss of a little torque.

thats why Turbo were more popular in on road racing

when they first came out i heard all sorts of stuff

Turbos make more power
Turbos are more delicate and cant be used off road
Turbos need 8 % oil to work
Turbos require softer clutch shoes
Turbos have nicer personalities
Turbos requre more after run
Turbos run hotter
Turbos run cooler

lol

M

hmm you recon? what about once the copper shim has worn out from taking the plug in and out so much, and the seal on the headbuton copper ring and plug is no longer as tight? i remember in my old days with the non turbos when a plug was old you could see some pressure being release near the plug (ie bubles poping out now and then, especially if the motor was new, or if the headbutton had worn out a bit where the copper washer contacts the headbutton).

also the advantages you could gain from using a non turbo plug (and getting more torque like you said) could be counteracted by using a longer header/or pipe combo when you use a turbo plug right?

and my final point; ay man it's called turbo plug! it's quicker bro! naturally! lol :lol: i put a "turbo" sticker on my hyundai accent, i swear man, 20% more powa! :lol:

iSh that because they are a higher displacement plug ? Ma Ma Lishen ok

From my experience. If you look at a turbo button with turbo plug installed, you can see the dome plus plug is a beautifull fit for good combustion.
Generally also Turbo plugs are hotter plugs and from my OS Vspec experience, I always had issues with the P3's. After about 1.5 to 2 litres the plug starts to lose performance and needs replacement. No ways you can tune it right.
What I do now is use standard buttons, I polish the chamber and make sure the plug makes a nice fit in the chamber without protruding or being in too deep. For me this works magic. Its like I am simulating the turbo button effect.
I cant see any noticeable difference to what I do to my standard heads versus the turbo head.
Mark share your experimentation with heads. I think you will agree you can get the same from a standard button if polished.

the main difference between Turbo and Standard button is the Geometric compression ratio. Turbo heads have a larger roundish dish. this has several effects

Hi all i have to edit my info , ive been corrected on the information, it was my impression that refraction is influenced by the shape of the dome.. its not so , what a larger dome does is allow for a larger charge to occour which is evenly transferred to the piston regardless of the shape ..

Woo hoo !

Hi

Ill try again... Can anyone tell me if the P5X Turbo head will fit my 5 port GO. I already run a Nova carb which fitted perfectley. You may recall this engine Mark!!! BTW awsome motor just about to drop it in my new LSP PRO-R!!!

Thanx.

it Should be a straight drop in but id recommend the Go Turbo button . I think the bore is the same but the clearence may be different ..