JanisK

yellow spring seems to be a bit too soft for crf
Try clutch setup, mentioned by asil,
to add, most of the time standart gearing wont work, you need to try higher ratio.
I used standart gearing on g4s, after changing to 18/23 52/47 i had a feeling like a motor has doubled its power.

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

Yeap Asil was flying that day but he was just unlucky the race before, my car was drivable and I know now that I forgot to change to softer tires as the weather was colder this race. (I switched on the electric forgot to do it for the gas car...)

I checked the diameter of the yellow I have and it is 1.8mm I guess that is the Kfactory yellow. I am not sure. getting pretty confused about this I have the black one in one of the boxes. while waiting for the orion clutch and spring I go ahead and use the red TM shoe at the moment.

but still I have to say I like this engine because it wont quit even if I am the one setting it. Poor thing was trying very hard

Oh I am sure the HSN and LSN settings are off as well. most probably the idle too.

the difference is the same as setting up a brushed vs brushless in Electric. I have read through the whole forum here and my head hurts alittle, but took notes. so I know what did wrong and to sum it that is nothing. That means I am going to take apart the whole car to its last screw and rebuild it. I hope I can get the ED tranny by then.

Do you know if they are going to build a bigger flywheel and clutch set for the G4S??

arr see car

iTrader: (13)

Nano~ Is there a new combo pack coming out as I am having trouble finding the Discovery pack that is in stock. Most people are out of stock.

Cheers

asil

I was marshalling Toughbeard's race and his FL tyre just rolled through me. he drove 3 laps with 3 tyres and he was fast He has UFO2 clutch I think. Yellow spring was in kit the box when he built his G4S..





Asil

Nano

The Discovery is still actual, there are some Discovery packs available still.
Which country do you live in?

Nano

arr see car

iTrader: (13)

Australia......

Cheers

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

yeap UFO2 but still not stiff enough... I can drive anything with wheels (even if it is missing some of it )

Rawz

Guys, I have the original CRF. So I can update my carb to the last version, what codes from this list should I get? (ok, if I get the complete carb I will have it, but only some pieces are needed, right ?)


ORI81312 - CRF 12 - Complete Carburator
ORI81313 - CRF 12 - Carburetor Case +
ORI81314 - CRF 12 - Slide stopper +
ORI81315 - CRF 12 - Mettering Needle NO.7
ORI81316 - CRF 12 - Slide Valve
ORI81317 - CRF 12 - Needle Holder 0,35mm
ORI81318 - CRF 12 - Main Needle + O'ring
ORI81320 - CRF 12 - Fuel Inlet nipple +
ORI81321 - CRF 12 - Spray Nozzle Long
ORI81322 - CRF 12 - Diffuser A
ORI81323 - CRF 12 - Throttle Rubber Boot
ORI81324 - CRF 12 - Carburetor Insulater
ORI81325 - CRF 12 - O'ring Set + Fibre
ORI81341 - CRF 12 - Metering Needle
ORI81342 - CRF 12 - Mettering Needle No.1
ORI81343 - CRF 12 - Mettering Needle No.2
ORI81344 - CRF 12 - Mettering Needle No.3
ORI81345 - CRF 12 - Mettering Needle No.4
ORI81346 - CRF 12 - Mettering Needle No.5
ORI81347 - CRF 12 - Mettering Needle No.6
ORI81348 - Carburettor Tuning Diffuser
ORI81349 - CRF 12 - Cylinder Timing
ORI81353 - CRF 12 - Spray Nozzle Long
ORI81354 - CRF 12 - Spray Nozzle Long
ORI81355 - CRF 12 - Complet Carburetor
ORI81356 - CRF 12 - Carburetor Case 5.5mm
ORI81370 - CRF 12 - Carburetor Case +
ORI81371 - CRF 12 - Throttle Rotor
ORI81372 - CRF 12 - Main Needle + O'ring
ORI81373 - CRF 12 - Throttle Arm
ORI81374 - CRF 12 - Spray Nozzle Rotary
ORI81375 - CRF 12 - Diffuser Rotary A
ORI81376 - CRF 12 - Rubber Boot Rotary
ORI81377 - CRF 12 - Spray nozzle nut
ORI81380 - CRF 12 - Spring
ORI81381 - CRF 12 - Idle adjustment screw
ORI81382 - CRF 12 - Guide screw
ORI81383 - CRF 12 - Stopper


Thankx guys.

uniquexme

iTrader: (12)

nano, would you be kind enough to help us getting the right tuning for the wasp 2006 for team magic G4S using team orion clutch shoe and team orion special square spring? thanks. i m sure all G4S guys here would feel better. coz i almost give up and intend to let go of my wasp. thanks.

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

Well at the moment I am planning on putting back my TZ back in the G4S. It is not fast but it is stable and I know how to tune it. Since I need to get my car to hook up first I need a powerplant I know how to tune.

When I have the car fixed I ll have the Wasp back in there and work on the engine then.

And By that time I should have the pipe and clutch Items purchased.

At the moment I am more interested in My Electric car than the nitro so a car that is more reliable will be more fun for me

G4S and the Wasp is a great combo because as someone put it so dearly
"Serdar, You work 1 hour on your electric and 10 mins on your gas car. No wonder it drives like Chit..." , but at the moment I need that 10 minutes for my electric

pipester

iTrader: (7)

has anyone had this problem with their crf ?? The problem that i have is the engine has a bad lean hesitation that's intermitant . almost like it has a bad air leak somewhere thats intermitant . Nothing seems to set it off , it just happens whenever it feels like it . I've tried everything so far that i could with out replacing the carb or crank bearings . I've been thru the engine and carb twice now and couldn't find anything , no bad orings or anything worn out . when it runs up on tune it screams like it should thru the whole throttle range till it falls on its face , then it seems like its starving for fuel , a couple of seconds later it runs fine again . I've tried everything from the fuel tank to the clutch and can't find the problem . the engine only has had about a gallon of fuel thru it and has good compression . I'm ready to pull my hair out ! I hate to can this engine cause its retarted fast when it runs right !

Thanks , Jim

uniquexme

iTrader: (12)

well, thats the hassle with orion wasp, not everyone can get it tuned rite. me and my frenz have tried everything we could, but still. i must say that if u are not very good at tuning engine, stay away, far away from wasp. coz i have given up on it.

Rawz

Try to rise compression, to match the fuel you are using.
I use Byron 20%, and I am at 1000 meters above sea level.
Only after I removed the .1 shim from the chamber I got the engine to tune. Had the same situation you described.

pipester

iTrader: (7)

all ready tried that . i am also running 20% byrons at about 2300-2500 feet . I can get the engine to tune but it will just do this intermitantly . No matter if its tuned way rich or right on the money , it will still stumble .

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

We also use 25% run-in