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Old 05-13-2007, 04:02 PM   #1141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX4-R03
Do you have the updated high speed needle..
If so that is what I am running, it just seems you can lean the top more with the orion high speed needle..but as far as performance how do you like the carb..
for the performance i like os cab with os hs needle,cause my orin hs needle is old version 1,can i know CRF wasp & wasp 07 wht different,only cab different or got other different (thinking to buy another set wasp 07 HEHE)thank bro
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:51 PM   #1142
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also can i using 6mm pipes,6mm & 5mm for wasp which one better
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:53 PM   #1143
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5mm is legal for racing , 6mm is for outlaw and ok for club races if they dont check it. Ive never seen dyno tests but my guess is the 6mm might provide more top end power.
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:55 PM   #1144
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
5mm is legal for racing , 6mm is for outlaw and ok for club races if they dont check it. Ive never seen dyno tests but my guess is the 6mm might provide more top end power.
but 5mm pipes more save fuel right bro
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Old 05-13-2007, 06:55 PM   #1145
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Confused
I have just bought a new CRF WASP off eBay. I did this before I read this thread. I suspect that it is the original
1) How will I be able to identify which model it is?
2) If it is the original, do I then need to get a high speed needle and a complete carb body?
3) If I use an OS carb, do I run it with the OS needles, or do I then put the new WASP needle in?
4) What is a good starting place for the needles in the OS carb?
Thank you in advance
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Old 05-13-2007, 09:48 PM   #1146
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have tried johnhsp orion with OS carb yesterday, but a strange thing is the Low end. after u fired up the engine, let it sit to warm a bit as usual, then i start driving the car. This is the wierd part. when u full throttle, it hestitate to move. at 1st i thought it was the centax problem, but johnhsp told me its the problem with old version of wasp. so u like have to wait 0.5-1sec before the car starts to accelerate (where rpm is reving). so he told me that this is the problem with old wasp. so i m only helping him to post as he has difficulties in putting them to words. hope this can help him, and maybe me, coz he was infecting me with how fast orion is if tuned properly, and m still deciding whether or not to get the new version.

so i was wondering if by any chances this engine has been raced side-by-side with OS Speed or Palmaris??? thanks. oh yah, is the new combo good? and how to differentiate it with old version, u know, some hobby shop doesn't tell the truth just to sell out their stuffs. thanks. (john, done my part liao)
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Old 05-13-2007, 11:39 PM   #1147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nosram
Confused
I have just bought a new CRF WASP off eBay. I did this before I read this thread. I suspect that it is the original
1) How will I be able to identify which model it is?
2) If it is the original, do I then need to get a high speed needle and a complete carb body?
3) If I use an OS carb, do I run it with the OS needles, or do I then put the new WASP needle in?
4) What is a good starting place for the needles in the OS carb?
Thank you in advance
just install the carb with the 5.4 os venturi, and open the h/s and low speed about 2-3 hours and start from there..
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Old 05-14-2007, 01:53 AM   #1148
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Nano!!

I got the new CNC Combustion chamber and it says that I need to use 0.3mm head shims with it. Since that is what the engine comes with (original CRF), can I run 30% nitro without adding any additional shims? If I need to add shims, then I need to order a set.

Thank you,
Rainer
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Old 05-14-2007, 02:21 AM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme
so u like have to wait 0.5-1sec before the car starts to accelerate (where rpm is reving). so he told me that this is the problem with old wasp.
This can only happen when you start the engine, rev it up once and it's cleaned out. Because of it's design, then engine sucks in a lot of mixture when you start it so you need to clean it out. If this happens while you are running the car or after you stop running the car, the carburator settings are wrong or the clutch is too loose.
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Old 05-14-2007, 02:32 AM   #1150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nano
This can only happen when you start the engine, rev it up once and it's cleaned out. Because of it's design, then engine sucks in a lot of mixture when you start it so you need to clean it out. If this happens while you are running the car or after you stop running the car, the carburator settings are wrong or the clutch is too loose.

i dun quite understand what u mean by "Clean it out". u mean to dismental the whole engine to flush everything? this happens when i 1st start the car, giving it the 1st initial throttle. so its like u have to full throttle before the car is willing to move. As for the centax, everything is fine. Clutch gap of 0.4mm, end play 0.1mm. As i drove around, at certain times, esp out of corner, when u want to give it acceleration, it just reluctant to move, u have to pump a few times b4 it moves. as for the carb setting, need to check with johnhsp again, not too sure as i only drove for 2 laps.
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Old 05-14-2007, 02:34 AM   #1151
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I think Nano tries to say, hold the car up and give full throttle to clean out the excess mixture and then put it o the track and go ...

Please correct me if I'm wrong..


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Old 05-14-2007, 02:36 AM   #1152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Nano!!

I got the new CNC Combustion chamber and it says that I need to use 0.3mm head shims with it. Since that is what the engine comes with (original CRF), can I run 30% nitro without adding any additional shims? If I need to add shims, then I need to order a set.

Thank you,
Rainer
Lately we sell the engine (which has the regular combustion chamber) with only 0.1mm shims. The original and conical combustion chambers don't have the same dimensions, so if you use only 0.1mm with the conical chamber bad things could happen.

0.3mm is then minimum when using the conical chamber. I think it should be ok for 16-30% nitro.

Nano
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Old 05-14-2007, 02:37 AM   #1153
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oic. ok i will ask him to give it a try this weekend to see how it goes. But how about to explain that it happen again when exiting corners? thanks for that advise, will try out.
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Old 05-14-2007, 03:32 AM   #1154
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just thinking to buy another CRF wasp 07,so this version got any problems with orion cab,should i buy another one unit wasp try it or just buy other engine
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Old 05-14-2007, 03:34 AM   #1155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX4-R03
just install the carb with the 5.4 os venturi, and open the h/s and low speed about 2-3 hours and start from there..
just want to know you using CRF wasp is 07 version or old version,if is 07 version why u change cab to os,hope you can help me,cause thinking to buy another wasp engine
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