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Old 03-04-2006, 01:33 PM   #1
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Default Engine Break-in Question

Hi guys, I am breaking in my Savage 4.6 and have a couple questions. First of all I have followed the directions per HPI to break in, 1 tank wheels off the ground at idle, 1 tank off ground with occasional throttle, and 2 tanks on ground at half throttle. The first tank the temp. went right up to 220-240 pretty easy, the 2nd the temp. went up to 200 at the end of the tank, and these final 2 tanks only got the temp up to 160 at the highest. When is it safe for me to begin tuning the carb and leaning it out? The weather has been 20 degrees colder the last couple days, is that why the temps are staying down, or is the rich factory setting keeping the temps down. I have read around the forum that you want the engine temp around 200 for break-in, I just don't know how long it has to be run like that before it is safe to lean out the mix.

New to the nitro game and don't want the engine to crap out on me because of something I did

Thanks
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Old 03-04-2006, 03:34 PM   #2
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I do 1 litre before i start tuning my engines for racing i run i tank on idle and the rest on the ground running as rich as possible.
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Old 03-04-2006, 06:12 PM   #3
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Do you shoot for a certain temp while running that rich setting? And would 20 degree F lower air temp make that big of a difference in engine temps? Maybe I should wait for a warmer day?
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Old 03-05-2006, 12:47 AM   #4
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Na i dont aim for a certain temp, just make it as rich as possible without it stalling , i wouldnt worry about air temp
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Old 03-05-2006, 12:56 AM   #5
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the sleeve needs to reach 175f or so to expand....
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Old 03-05-2006, 08:20 PM   #6
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lol, let the engine idle as rich as possible; that is the worste advice you could give.


The piston needs to reach around 200-220F to expand, without reaching that temp, you'll ruin that pinch quickly.

Read up on the heat cycle method.
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Old 03-05-2006, 11:04 PM   #7
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Ive come to find Engine Break in is all in the eye of the beholder. Everyone has a different way , method , process , route etc...in otherwords everyone goes at it in a different way.

Unless someone can proove without a shadow of a doubt their way is better. Then most everyone who gives you advice will be just of opinion nature and not of truthful fact, as there really isnt any.

Allthough a lot of people can agree on certain aspects theres a lot to disagree. I would just say this , try to keep as much fuel (lubrication) going through the engine as possible. Get to 10 tanks and then start leaning it out 1/8th of a turn each half a tank till you get your motor running the way you want powerwise. Then use the temp gauge to monitor and keep it in range. I wouldnt go over 250F in a monster truck , in a touring car 240F id tried to keep it under.

But then there are people who run 270 and say it runs great, just shoot for power when you find the max power , back it off a little (richer) so your right at the peak power but still giving it enough cooling to function properly and keep wear down. Its also good to keep an eye on how much it smokes. If its not smoking , then your probably too lean.

Also yes cooler outside temperature will result in cooler readings. Nitro motors are definently effected by many environmental changes , even beyond temperature.

Happy Tuning.
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Old 03-05-2006, 11:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsturbo15
lol, let the engine idle as rich as possible; that is the worste advice you could give.
.
What the F**K were the hell did someone say that!
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Old 03-13-2006, 11:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
What the F**K were the hell did someone say that!
Common knowledge Mr West, do some research before shooting your mouth off.

Personally I prefer the W.O.T. heat cycle method, do a search for the Josh Cyrul run in method. Takes some stones to do the first time, but works great. My engines allways last a long time, idle well and produce good power since using this method.
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Old 03-13-2006, 08:31 PM   #10
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http://www.osengines.com/faq/product-faq.html#q590
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Old 03-13-2006, 10:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNSTABLE
Common knowledge Mr West, do some research before shooting your mouth off.

Personally I prefer the W.O.T. heat cycle method, do a search for the Josh Cyrul run in method. Takes some stones to do the first time, but works great. My engines allways last a long time, idle well and produce good power since using this method.

up yours, ive got a novarossi L3 thats lasted 2 years so far (racing) and thats how it was broken in Fsturbo15 cant read properly so dont give me shit it was just for the first tank.
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Old 03-14-2006, 02:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
What the F**K were the hell did someone say that!
Well Mr West, as Philster has just shown you, O.S. engines suggest that it is not a good idea, but hey, I'm sure a man with your internet forum experience knows better.
Up mine huh, not very nice is it....
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Old 03-14-2006, 12:06 PM   #13
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This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:20 PM   #14
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Ok it understand that the "Pros" dont use that method but they only use a engine for like 1-2 races and change the sleeve or bif it, I use the method so my engines last and they do.

Sorry for being a smart ass in anyway
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:40 PM   #15
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hi guys :

i've tried all known methods and every one of them works ...
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