Working an a new engine head
 

For those who have not seen it yet on Facebook....

For a time I wanted to make a cooling head which looks different than all is used. I loved the old Mega P5 head and was thinking of such. After some thinking I came to this:

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/VgW2OG51e...fjy5S/full.jpg

A friend made a 3D CAD drawing.

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/8PYpmCJlS...PZYU0/full.jpg

It looked that good I wanted to make it and bought some cheap long 4mm mill bits from Aliexroess

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/1anZJDW9m...ubChr/full.jpg

First on the lathe the base of the head.

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/9g3zNXo7S...hOcBP/full.jpg

Then the mounting holes

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/b5EnFucnE...aFkS1/full.jpg

I needed to mount a 2nd ruler on my mill to hold on the right movement, so far the start of the 1st slot.

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/us6AVm8qR...LrOLi/full.jpg

A few slots ahead the shape became vey visable

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/RIfy160W0...UkXmf/full.jpg

Not bad for a 1st try

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/cAKSTyTqL...4lK4c/full.jpg

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/GbocCY6eX...sltct/full.jpg

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/oHCgRPhBa...bVMMO/full.jpg

Meanwhile with a file I made some edges and surfaces much better looking and now it is time to polish it and give it a color. I want to have it red but some say it must be black.

This is a CAD drawing with the red color.

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/lJlVyaP7q...TmhV6/full.jpg

I want to try a 2nd one but then the slots must be done on a CNC mill for a better result.

Thats pretty cool Roelof!

Its always nice to see racers trying out ideas and putting them into practice. Is your thought to get cleaner airflow balanced to the rear wing perhaps

deburr, lightly polish, then bead blast it and have it cerakoted gold.

Cerakote would not be as good as anodizing for heat dissipation purposes. It would act more as an Insulator.

With normal heads the fins get the heat by a tree construction over de center of the head. My head has each fin directly connected to the base so I think all 8 fins will work the same to get the heat out of the head. Also the slots prevents that all trapped air can bend off from the head and so the air is forced to flow through the head.

The test will be to tune the engine with a normal head and then place this one to see if the engine reacts the same and measure the temps to compare.

But most of all I wanted something unique and I think this is it.

I ran the Vertical Fin Heads in 2wd Pan for a while, both the Motonica Classic Motor and an Novarossi Classico with an old Serpent Mega Head. If anything as a Nostalgia thing, as I missed the motors of past. I was hoping that RC Concept would bring out a vertical fin head for on road like their Off Road motors, but never did, unfortunately.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...a1b93a6581.png
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3758dfec2a.png

Do not forget the low head of the OSMAX buggy which is also used by some onroad drivers and ther is a German brand with Novarossi engines who has a low head with standup fins for their .12 engine

My friend did render some other stuf based on my head

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d9e992e365.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2669209f18.jpg

Those would be nice too!, Old OS like the old OS .21 SE-B ABC motor, and I think they had a CZ with vertical fins too, I can not recall.

Forgot to mention, the weight is 62 gram, about the same weight as an original head, that means it has the same amount of material.

It would be cool and interesting to see the aero of the car i.e. windtunnel or such, to show it the airflow through the head enables better aero of the rear Spoiler and side stabilizers

Fun to see someone try something different, I hope it works the way you want it to. :)

Really cool!

Roelof what Aluminum did you use, 6000 series?

This seems to be a 2000 series aluminum (2007 to be exact).. No specific reason but it is easy to work with what is needed to mill slots of 50mm deep. I have plenty of 7075 but that is not easy to anodize. I was ordering some stuf at my online electronics shop and ordered a piece with it to reach the price limit to get free shipping.

Let me ask u in the case of an 8th scale were the motor is exposed and not inside the body, wouldn't the best cooling be if there was no head and the air was to flow directly over the button head? forget about protecting the glow plug and this or that I am just talking theory right now.; I mean you really don't need a head and fins to dissipate heat in an exposed environment like 8th just wondering.

Your head looks great also!!

And one more ? what about making the button head and the fins as one piece?

Well some surface and volume is needed to pick up the heat and transfer it to the air.
Yes with current high mounted bodies there is less airflow over the buttonhead and glowplug so the fins are important.We have experimented with the thickness of the trunk holding the fins and how thicker it is the more heat comes out of the engine noticed by the noticeable higher pinch of the piston due a colder sleeve.

My head with the vertical slots makes it more easy to give the glowplug more airflow because normal heads with the horizontal fins will keep the airflow more in a horizontal line.

The buttonheat with cooling head in one piece is easy with normal plugs, Making it for the use with turbo plugs requires special tooling but not impossile. But the 2 piece head/button construction makes a small heat resistance between the head and the button, that will create a more stable temperature on the button and so on the sleeve. I think that is better for a more stable running engine.

its always a pleasure watching u make anything!!

so if you try this style next, please tell me you plan to have an entire R2-D2 paint scheme planned!! That head just reminda me of it 😄😄😄

And anodized

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...854489377a.jpg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...bfd21a9e01.jpg

Very nice concept......

Roelof, how is the head working out?

All my engines are predictable to run +/- 135 to 140 degrees (on my IR meter) as one did yesterday.during practise at the 1st race for the Belgium championship.Unlucky something went wrong and I had to instal a new engine which was prepaired with this head. The engine was fresh from the oil bath break in and had stil a high pinch. After 4 tanks we were running on full race performance and the engine did not come above 120 degrees.
My pitguy is a person who knows all about materials and how to work with them. The 2000 series aluminum are the best heat transfers of them all but he also thinks that the direct contact of all the fins with the head base and the wide slot for the glowplug are responsable for the better cooling.

Production wise it is a disaster, performance wise it seems to work

Very nice work... I would do the fins not so linear to the airflow... Maybe a lidlebit like the old Super Tigre X21 with blue head.
But this is a cool idea.

Have you a step data from the silver head... Would like to try doing some on our machines

I have no cnc, just by hand controled machines....

Never did mention it, but here the anodized result.

https://tweakers.net/ext/f/LkJBMPpiw...j2vYI/full.jpg

nice!!!

I would question statement that 2000 series alloys has the best heat transfer rate. For sure 6061 much easier to machine.
For heat transfer most important is cooling area-thats what counts.
But, do not take my words as granted, prove your point to yourself.

After How many post could I upload a photo ??? I did a drawing which I wanted to share with you :-(

10 posts....

But you wanted to post this one?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4a35a7b847.png

Nice drawing big R!! Can you do that by hand ? Or for this one you would need the machine? Are you trying to save weight also or just for better cooling ?

This is not my drawing but his.

Yes, I can do that w/o cnc.the rounding is easy with simple tools

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...50238d37de.jpg

Thank you for posting the picture.
Not Sure I saw this Heatsink on Collaris Car and I find it looks very nice.
For the machine I work on 5 axis machines and got as well a lidle cnc mill and a lidle cnc lathe at home. So the machine is not the problem. With a conventional machine I guess it could be very tricky to do this head.
For the advantage I´am not sure . Off course it will have less weight , but will the engine get enough cooling?

Lower weight is not as important as lower CG.....
Checkout the Bert design :
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e278eac559.jpg

As mentioned all the fins are directly placed on the base of the head so they have the most direct heat transfer, the cooling will be OK. The holes in the lowest fins will not do much, once I did dril a head like the GRP engine heads and it did save 5 gram, in this case it will not be more than 1 or 2 gram.

Yes, I have seen it on Collari his car as well, not sure why he is not driving it, maybe more to do with sponsoring, keeping it original.

@Roleof, can you tell me where to get this extra long endmills?

Thank you Roleof got my 10 posts now :-)
This will be the final Heatsink version for my Nova Mito .Looking forward to get the first chips .

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ddccba136d.png
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9ff2f6a168.png

I did found them on Aliexpress like
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32724...chweb201603_55

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32880...chweb201603_55

But with open fins you could use a saw blade mill like these:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/40002...chweb201603_55

I have some in different sizes with a sideway mount to make such grooves.