Originally Posted by Corse-R (Post 3363272)

Have you checked the combustion chamber height? how high came it? still come too low or ir a thing that has been fixed on the new units? My last R01A came slightly higher than the original R01's.

I have still some very nice STi's but.. planning to get a T01 on the next weeks.

Originally Posted by %Yanlei% (Post 3362169)

Hi all,

Something really wierd happened today. Picked up a new Ninja .21, Murnan modified full ceramic, pre-run in...Ran great, did 1.5 litres through it on the first day out without leaning the top or bottom end too far out. The engine ran fine all day. Took it home to check out the internals for the first time to make sure everything was ok and I found something wierd had happened.

There were two 5mm long triangular shards of metal in the crankcase...but no other evidence internal damage whatsoever. It seems that the pieces had not been bouncing around either as the inside of the case and other internals looked fine. The pieces turned out to be from the bottom of the exhaust port side of the piston. That has not happened before with my other .21 Ninjas. I guess that I will have to replace the damn thing as the balance will be all out etc. etc.

Anyone had a similar problem with a Ninja? Plain wierd considering the engine was not run hard in the slightest and still on the rich side...

Originally Posted by stefan (Post 3102857)

No Mike, the MR.12 kit with the pipe is € 320 (420 USD).

When I look around at US shops, the difference between NR and Ninja .12's is also 20-30 bucks, not that much, right?

Btw, I just found the Plus 12-3 for €269, which is actually cheaper than the MR12.
NR Plus 12-3

When I lived in the States it was the distributors that messed up the prices for engines, especially Trinity when they had the monopoly.

I know that the European importer have been putting pressure on NR and it seems to have an effect.

Originally Posted by stefan (Post 3205133)

Hmm, what's next? Only Mugen fuel? or maybe genuine Ninja mechanic gloves and a special screwdriver for carb adjustments?

Grade A American bullshit if you axe me.. ;)

Originally Posted by wallyedmonds (Post 3368080)

the taper is different just like os,and sirio
you have to use there plugs if you want the button to stay good longer.

Originally Posted by JetMD (Post 3368193)

I think his point is why the different taper? Why not standardize them? Why can't all turbo's be the same? Oh wait, that would make too much sense and they wouldn't be able to charge $10 a plug!:lol:

Originally Posted by %Yanlei% (Post 3364541)

I believe that the piston must have come back down while I was removing the backplate and as Uriah said, broke the side of the piston. Cannot be anything else I guess!

Originally Posted by RR (Post 3363302)

have not check that yet...
but after the run in today, interior of the MRT still look like new :eek:

Originally Posted by wallyedmonds (Post 3368675)

10 bucks where can i get a plug for 10 bucks

ya all motor comps have there theory on that to make there motor run better faster stronger

we can rebuild it :lol:

and its not just the taper its the length of it too.

Originally Posted by KMR (Post 3374459)

Hello I’m new to Nitro and I’m ordering plugs for my new MR12 T01A and I wanted to double check on a couple things.

What % nitro should I run? Everyone locally has told me 30% ??

Also should I run a #6 or #7 Ninja plug if I want to run 30% nitro?