"Japanese" Break-in method?
05-02-2014, 07:47 PM
#16
I dont break them in . I idle one tank if they are lucky and run them with a race tune right out of the box. Never had a rod go in 10+ years of doing it. I do wait until they are fully warmed up before i hit the track though. And My motors last a LONG time. I know a ton of people are gonna say im crazy and thats bad for my motors but i have NEVER snapped a rod or anything. And the motors have more power and last longer then when i tried a traditional break in.
AND I HAVE ONLY EVER USED VP POWERMASTER
Last edited by RockStar_199; 05-02-2014 at 08:06 PM.
05-03-2014, 07:38 AM
#17
I dont break them in . I idle one tank if they are lucky and run them with a race tune right out of the box. Never had a rod go in 10+ years of doing it. I do wait until they are fully warmed up before i hit the track though. And My motors last a LONG time. I know a ton of people are gonna say im crazy and thats bad for my motors but i have NEVER snapped a rod or anything. And the motors have more power and last longer then when i tried a traditional break in.
05-05-2014, 12:41 PM
#18
Running a new engine at a super rich setting beats up the rod due to the materials not expanding from heat. Too much raw fuel also creates fluid friction that increases load and wear on the internal parts.
Everyone has an opinion on this and I am not here to tell anyone that they are wrong. All I can do is pass along what I have learned in 22 years of nitro racing and what has worked best for me.
1. Fire engine and get up to temp quickly.
2. Tune semi rich but keep over 180F no high RPM's
3. Idle 2-3 tanks blowing out fuel every minute or so
4. After 2-3 tanks lean down top and bottom to race tune over a few tank period.
5. Once tuned check plug, change if needed.
6. Ready to race.
Everyone has an opinion on this and I am not here to tell anyone that they are wrong. All I can do is pass along what I have learned in 22 years of nitro racing and what has worked best for me.
1. Fire engine and get up to temp quickly.
2. Tune semi rich but keep over 180F no high RPM's
3. Idle 2-3 tanks blowing out fuel every minute or so
4. After 2-3 tanks lean down top and bottom to race tune over a few tank period.
5. Once tuned check plug, change if needed.
6. Ready to race.
05-05-2014, 12:52 PM
#19
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I have been reading the Neobuggy engine reviews and was very curious about the break-in method they are using.
What I got from it was, Run your new motor at WOT (with a very rich high speed needle, so that the wheels barely spin) for 6 tanks then race tune it. Done.
Anyone ever try this? Hows the life time of your engine effected? Good and bad of this method?
What I got from it was, Run your new motor at WOT (with a very rich high speed needle, so that the wheels barely spin) for 6 tanks then race tune it. Done.
Anyone ever try this? Hows the life time of your engine effected? Good and bad of this method?
I have seen this done by a professional racer (I wont' name who in case this is not something they want to advertise). They got the motor hot with a head heater and left the head heater on during the break in (engine stayed over 200 the whole time). They slowly gave throttle and richened the HSN until the engine was at ful throttle but barley able to run at idel speeds. Sucked through a tank of fuel in about 2 minutes.. Did it again and put a full race tune on the engine.. and the engine ran GERAT. I am not sure how long it lasted after the event though.
I personally follow the same steps Mkorn uses and have had very good luck. I think key is to preheat engine and maintain 180+ temps.
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