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Old 07-02-2013, 07:09 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by hyperfuxx
Now how do you go about cleaning the inside? I heard that once you break into the motor you loose compresion.
Complete and total nonsense unless you are breaking things during the tear down.
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:19 AM
  #32  
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Could a carbon builded-up (inside) pipe cause similar problems?
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:22 AM
  #33  
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It will run better, guaranteed. Make sure your piston is top dead center or you'll have a bad day. Good luck....
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Maximo
BINGO !! i think you found your problem,...those marks on the crank are indeed from dirt.............I would not run that engine untill you fully tear her down and clean her out thoroughly.......
Noooooooo lol. I'll post a picture this afternoon for you to look at and confirm this before I go tearing into the engine. Thaaanks
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:08 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by nitrokiller123
Noooooooo lol. I'll post a picture this afternoon for you to look at and confirm this before I go tearing into the engine. Thaaanks


Over the yaers I have seen hundreds of people lose their engines by being unable to realize their engines had sucked dirt...Instead of tearing it down and cleaning it out, they stubbornly continue to try to force the engine to run....over and over they keep restarting the engine, flameout after flameout over and over and over again....often times letting several others have a crack at tuning it.....by the time they wear themselves out from frustration the engine is completely shot.......... For me if a engine flames out more then 2 times it gets pulled apart and inspected....
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:43 AM
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I'm assuming here, you have not had your engine apart in 4.5 gallons? It's not hard to do at all. There are several vids to show the correct way to do it. Rex from rw-mods has a good vid on his thread. The cranks are hardened in these engines and if you can see scratches on it, even light scratches, you've had dirt get sucked into your mill. The sad part is, your case will be ten times as bad as it's aluminum and scratches very easy.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:50 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by sschultz
I'm assuming here, you have not had your engine apart in 4.5 gallons? It's not hard to do at all. There are several vids to show the correct way to do it. Rex from rw-mods has a good vid on his thread. The cranks are hardened in these engines and if you can see scratches on it, even light scratches, you've had dirt get sucked into your mill. The sad part is, your case will be ten times as bad as it's aluminum and scratches very easy.
Ive taken my old engines apart a few times, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem, but yes, this will be the first time this one gets taken apart.

Hopefully the damage isn't terrible, the engine has been running awesome, it's just the random flameout that gets me, other than that, the thing runs like a champ. smh
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:06 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by nitrokiller123
Ive taken my old engines apart a few times, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem, but yes, this will be the first time this one gets taken apart.

Hopefully the damage isn't terrible, the engine has been running awesome, it's just the random flameout that gets me, other than that, the thing runs like a champ. smh
I tear mine down about every other run and clean to be on the safe side. I have a Bonito with well over 10 gallons that has been taken apart dozens and dozens of times.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:23 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by sschultz
It will run better, guaranteed. Make sure your piston is top dead center or you'll have a bad day. Good luck....
.... o..
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:30 PM
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What would be interesting is some of you with more experience tearing engines down and cleaning them would show how you do it.

Personally, I try not to tear my engines apart to keep dirt from getting in them. If there is a good way to properly tear apart and clean without contaminating the engine, it would be good to know.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:39 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Ben Burtle
What would be interesting is some of you with more experience tearing engines down and cleaning them would show how you do it.

Personally, I try not to tear my engines apart to keep dirt from getting in them. If there is a good way to properly tear apart and clean without contaminating the engine, it would be good to know.
Plug all openings with caps. use an old tooth brush and denatured alcohol and scrub along with some blasts of air to remove loose dirt.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by beidle99
Plug all openings with caps. use an old tooth brush and denatured alcohol and scrub along with some blasts of air to remove loose dirt.
That is the same as what I have done. I still get concerned over getting dirt in the engine. I have an engine that could use a good look over. I will try that again.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:13 PM
  #43  
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So, am curious, what's with the denatured alcohol? I've had nitro engines for many years and have never used denatured alcohol for cleaning my engines, or anything else for that matter. I assure you that when I clean my engines, they are clean. I see Monty and others always saying to use this. What's the advantage, because carb and brake cleaner do a great job and plastic and rubber parts clean up nice with good ol' soap and water or 409.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:24 PM
  #44  
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There are millions of things you could use to clean engines. Denatured alcohol is a popular choice because it dissolves oil residue that tends to get sprayed all over everything, is relatively cheap and wont hurt any of the various rubbers and plastics that can be found in engines.
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:27 PM
  #45  
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WD-40 works really well. I find denatured only removes the oils but not the grime. Qtips to get the fine particles and be able to see if it is indeed clean. Air compressors work good to clean bearings and to remove any wd-40 left inside. Then I oil each part with Nova 1m1 oil during reassembly. A wire dremel wheel removes baked on crap or small patches of rust from the crankshaft and the burned fuel and dirt combo on the top of the button head. a toothbrush and wd-40 is good for cleaning the outside including the cooling head. and a soft towel with wd40 removes carbon buildup on button head and even the top of the piston.
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