hey guys so after what, 2-3 days now i have read my manual, followed the break-in instructions and tune instructions on this website. Have spent hours on the net researching and am still at a loss. I have a brand new onfa nexx8t and the damned thing will not hold a tune. i think.(im noob so im not sure)

so on my last post you all helped me with the first few problems i had with the remote binding and throttle trim which fixed the WOT on start up THANK YOU ALL! now that all of that is taken care of.

i am able to adjust the needle settings, well kinda. i have adjusted the high-speed needle and low-speed needle but no matter what i do with the idle needle it wont run at a normal idle. i run it back and forth for about 3-5 mins stop it let it idle. The idle will drop a little at a stand still then ill try to adjust it down more to a more calm idle then it just dies, and wont start again unless i screw the idle needle in a ton. then it will start again and have a stupidly high idle again naturally cuz i screwed the damn screw in just to get it to start again. and this goes on all day with no light at the end of the tunnnle. needless to say im extremely frustrated with the car at this point and am unsure of what to do.

Any suggestions, thoughts, concerns, hypothesis?

Pinch the fuel line after you've ran it around for a while and see how long it takes to die and if your idle goes up before it dies, it sounds like your lsn is set wrong to me.

Your lsn is rich. It's flooding out at idle. Turn it clockwise an hour or two at a time till it will hold an idle. Once your engine is broke in you'll want to set your idle gap at around .5mm to .7mm and them adjust your idle speed with your lsn and don't touch idle screw again. But, that is after it's broke in.

Before you start turning the needles on the carb, you need to make sure the throttle is closing completely when you let off the trigger.
In order to keep the engine running consistently you need to keep the temperature of the engine consistent as well especially for break in. Engine needs to be preheated to 180-200 degrees with a heat gun or engine heater before you start it and then keep it running in the 180 to 230 degree range for the rest of the break in period. If you can't keep the temps up, you can wrap some foil around the lower fins of the cooling head to help keep the heat in.
Hope this helps.

thanks for all the info guys. im doing everything everyone suggests one at a time so far nothing has worked. today i did however get it pretty close i think. i think the engine is still working itself out. but when i mess with the LSN the idle is VERY inconsistent. like it will wined up then down, up then down, up then down.


On an off note, today i hit something with the front end pretty hard( i know its going to happen) but what was weird is that the truggy started to go in reverse when i hit the throttle instead of forward. i was like wtf....? so i shut it off inspected it and nothing seemed to be damage. so i started it back up and it was fine, it goes forward.

But idk if i just didnt notice before or if something actually is wrong. when the truggy is OFF and i mean the servos it will "free roll" but when i turn ON the servos its like there is a brake that is on until i hit the throttle then it frees up. But as soon as i let the throttle off its like the brakes are on again again i hadnt noticed before is this normal or no? im sorry if i should post this somewhere else or if i have to much going on in one post im sorry let me know and ill post it somewhere else. thanks guys!

-Bump-

The servo problem sounds to me like you need to adjust your throttle trim if you tx has that which I'm sure it does, if not take your servo horn off turn on your servo and then put the servo horn back on in the neutral position. As for it going in reverse after hitting something that's odd, only time I have heard of that is when an engine is started backwards.

Your inconsistent idle might require a hotter glow plug. Or it could be crappy fuel. Your tune might have caused your engine to run in reverse. It can happen....

fair enough then ill invest in to a hotter glow-plug any suggestions/ links?


also any thoughts on

(when the truggy is OFF and i mean the servos it will "free roll" but when i turn ON the servos its like there is a brake that is on until i hit the throttle then it frees up. But as soon as i let the throttle off its like the brakes are on again )

Your linkages are just jacked or your servo horn is not centered. This is stuff that you really can't learn on line. You need someone to show you how to set up your linkages and electronics. Is there a track or hobby shop anywhere near you? Someone could type you a 100 page essay and you still won't get it until you see someone do it in person.

I don't know what kind of engine your running, but amain should have what you need. Like jaz said, your linkage is not set up properly. If you have a manual, It should tell you how to fix. You can also google your vehicle and find manuals online... Here's a chart of heat ranges for os glow plugs....Good Luck...

would love to go to a shop and have someone help me. but the nearest shop to me is 53 miles away. which is fine i guess but there is only 2 there and the first one i went to the guy said.. "OH well i dont do nitro.. its not very popular in the nation anymore so i stopped carrying parts".... and then seemed like he didnt even want to talk to me anymore... im like wtf.... then referred me to the other hobby shop and said "HE" might still do nitro.. i just said w/e and went home.

So needless to say online is probly my one and only hope so if you know of a thread that explains it point me in the right direction.

thanks guys

Keep tinkering around you'll get it eventually. Basically what you need to do is figure out what each component does. And then you'll have a better grasp on what needs to be done. Setting your throttle and brake linkages as well as end points isn't too difficult. Also if you can measure the space in the carb and get the idle screw set right, from there it shouldn't need much tinkering. You can expect some build up over time in the crank case of fuel which will cause your engine to stall if you don't clear it before take off, this is pretty common. That's why at races you'll hear guys lightly blipping the throttle before take off to clear the crankcase of any extra fuel so they don't stall when the the go signal is given. Nitro just takes some time and patience. It won't happen overnight but piece by piece it'll come together for you. Just remember to keep an eye on the smoke and make sure your engine doesn't overheat. Also make sure your piston is at dead bottom when you shut your engine off. Good luck and just keep us updated and we will do the best we can to steer you in the right direction. Just be sure to not try multiple things at the same time and if you ever feel you are making things worse you can always go back to factory needle settings and start over again.

I've had bad experiences at local hobby shops as well. Luckily I've moved and the nearest one to me is actually pretty good. Nitro is not going to die any time soon. Those who run nitro usually couldn't imagine running anything else. It's a disease Just try to find a decent hobby shop or other rctech members nearby and they can help you when needed. I really hate the fact that many hobby shop owners feel they are above everyone else. It's that kind of attitude that has kept people from joining and enjoying this hobby and I've seen it all over the Midwest. Especially in Illinois many of the people who work and own these hobby shops tend to be assholes and I would just order online instead of dealing with their attitudes.

One more tip I thought I'd relay is don't tune until the engine has gotten to its running temp. Meaning don't try and tune a cold engine. It might be common sense but in the beginning that was one of the things I struggled with personally.

Do you have an I phone? I can FaceTime you and help. That way I can see your linkages and explain what to do and why