Engine idle problems 2
 

So I don't know whether my old thread got deleted or glitched or what. If it's there and I just can't see it, go ahead and delete this.

I'm having problems adjusting my LSN and idle screw. I've gone through the tuning bible and can't figure it out.

Basically, either the engine idles too high the whole time, then stalls, or it idles too high, then when I turn the idle screw down, it stalls, or when I lean the LSN slightly, and hit the gas, the engine immediately dies.

What do I do?

Sounds like the LSN is to rich. Take the air filter off and set the idle gap to 2mm (about the width of a Xacto blade). Then start the motor and warm it up. Give it a couple of full throttle blips, listen to see how long it takes to idle down. Start leaning out the LSN until it does not idle down, then set the idle screw to the correct idle. At this point the HSN will probably be to lean, richen the top end until you see constant smoke while accelerating. Temp the motor after a couple of min of driving. It should be around 230. Only make small changes, in one hour increments, at a time.

It always helps if you are at the track and get someone to help that knows what is going on as you drive it.

Good luck and Happy Holidays.;)

I did set the idle gap to 1-2mm, and the car does idle, and when I gas it it does go. However, when I lean the LSN about a quarter turn, THEN it dies when I hit the gas.

The other issue is that it does not idle down at all. When I have it so that it does idle, it idles incredibly high, nearly half throttle. Even when the buggy is on the ground and the wheels aren't spinning, the engine revs are still super high.

Does that mean that it's still too rich?

What brand of engine are we talking about? Is it broken in or new?

If the engine is broken in, don't set the idle gap larger than .7mm

check the throttle trim, normally a small move of the servo is needed before the carburater will be moved. If there is no small moment between them the that is the cause.

Keep the ignitor on, if that does solve the stall then you will notice if the engine is to rich or to lean.

And another cause is the glowplug, a to cold or an old plug can give such problems.

It's an SH .28 engine in a new Hurricane XTR. I broke in the engine, and I don't have any starting point as for ballpark tuning settings.

This may or may not help.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...run-right.html

http://home.comcast.net/~98gmarquee/...cDocs/SH28.pdf

Says the LSN is preset. However, when I set the needle back to factory, raw fuel spits out the exhaust. I take it that's normal then?

delete me mods

I think you have a few things going on.

1. the clutch isn't engaging if the engine is reving and it's not going. this is also the reason for the stalls more than likely. if it has the standard kind of clutch the spring is probably broken. then the shoes get jammed in the housing causing it to stall out sometimes.

2. since it's reving that high on it's own, you have an air leak in the carb. check the base oring and make sure the carb is down all the way and the retainer nut is nice and tight.

any time a nitro engine starts stalling for no reason the first thing you should suspect is the clutch. I've even had a pin in the flywheel back out and touch the bell causing stalls.

But it's a brand new engine D: I haven't even hardly gotten started tuning yet!

Factory settings are generally for break in and very rich. Don't be afraid to lean it out.

If its brand new, you broke it in right?

that $10 a day china worker was probably having an off day:lol:

no but seriously, as much as we all would like things to just work out of the box most of the time they don't or require some proper setup and tuning.
there is even a sealant for carbs for just this very reason.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...uretor-Sealant

btw, don't listen to the one review of it that says it's the same as the autoparts store sealants.
not all sealants are the same. most of them you cannot use in contact with fuels.

Have you tried tuning with the main (high speed) needle?? If your idle is fine, then once you hit the throttle, there's too much of a variance of air/fuel causing it to die....its really hard to tune a motor via forum, but I would try leaning the high speed needle 1-2 hours, and richening the low speed 2-3 hours...all this is with your idle gap @ 1mm...other than that, set everything back to factory settings and start over

and now that it's really cold out you probably need a hotter plug. I went out today and had to switch mine out to a hot one.

Factory settings are normally way to rich. Set the idle like others said and use the HSN at first. If raw fuel is dumping out the pipe, keeping going in on the HSN until it's not spitting it out the pump so much. Do wot runs and listen for the top end to peak out. Once that is set, then adjust the LSN to get the rpm's to drop down after the wot run. Like others stated, if it's cold out you will probably need an ultra hot plug.

So will the buggy dump fuel at idle if the HSN is more lean?

Sounds like I'm going back to factory.

just out of curriosity, what kind of fuel are you using??? what's probly comming out of your pipe is oil, not raw fuel...

Byron Gen 2. It's 20% nitro and 16% lubricant.

Are you sure that's what your using? I believe it's 12% total lube.

http://www.byronfuels.com/pages/products.html

The bottle reads 20% and 16%..

the race gen rtr is 20% and 16% oil if thats what he has