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well how do i make the engine stop drawing in air through the front bearing? the OS 40 FP on my plane seeps oil through the front bearing and runs like a champ. My .25 POS on my redcat car does not. When the engine works right, it runs great but it can be seemingly perfectly tuned and then a tank or so later, won't run again
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Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12660935)
well how do i make the engine stop drawing in air through the front bearing? the OS 40 FP on my plane seeps oil through the front bearing and runs like a champ. My .25 POS on my redcat car does not. When the engine works right, it runs great but it can be seemingly perfectly tuned and then a tank or so later, won't run again
If you want to be 100% sure it's not the front bearing, put a new one in. |
i did the soapy water test on it, i sealed up the carb with rtv ultra black silicone and blowing through the fuel line while plugging the carb and exhaust with my finger reviled the front bearing leak. And this has been this way straight out of the box with little use because of these problems, i tried to break it in but i never got it to actually run without dying on any of the 5 break in tanks of fuel and i did everything your supposed to
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Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12660670)
I realize this thread is a year old but i hope someone still follows it. Doing the soapy water test, my front bearing has a good leak in it but it doesn't leak oil or fuel which means it is probably sucking air in and this engine runs horribly inconsistent and the only way to keep it running is to turn the idle screw as far open as it goes. No this is not due to improper tuning as it will be fine and then all of the sudden start acting up which is what i mean by inconsistent. So what is this bypass port, where is it located, and how do i plug it up?
P.S. This was a brand new motor, nothing but problems straight from the box.
Originally Posted by Imbue
(Post 12660937)
There are a lot of things that will cause those issues, not necessarily a front bearing. Bad fuel tank, fuel lines, carb leak, etc. To pin it down as the front bearing, isn't ideal.
If you want to be 100% sure it's not the front bearing, put a new one in. RC engine don't really 'seal' that well, if you put a fair amount of after-run oil or WD-40 in your engine and leave it there, sometimes you'll see the oil leak out from there, it's very normal. |
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Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 11380140)
So you actually think extra fuel leaking out the bearing actually harms it ? I dont buy that for a second dude ! LOL what harms the bearings is when the engine breathes thru the front sucking up dirt into the bearing...thats actually what kills the bearings....dirt kills bearings !!!!! . I would rather have a engine leak a little fuel then suck a little dirt ! a little extra fuel only lubricates the bearings, it doesn't harm them...dirt is what kills the bearings...not fuel ! this why we block the little oil bypass port....we get extra fuel leaking out the front, but have zero issue with dirt getting sucked into the engine......... After blocking that port all the engines show slight leaking out the front, yet the amount of front bearings failures was reduced to nil....and this is tested and proven over hundreds of engines now...............As I say, its better to leak a tiny bit of fuel then it is for the engine to breath thru the front...Breathing in dirt thru the front bearing is what kills the bearings....fuel seeping out does no harm at all.......fuel is a lubricant, and having extra lubricant only seals and protects the bearing better.... Personally I would rather see a slightly damp front bearing then a bone dry bearing...if the bearing is bone dry then I always suspect the engine is breathing in thru the nose....which means it is breathing in unfiltered , dirty air..........
Now of course a little extra fuel leaking will cause a collection of dirt on the nose of the engine, that may eventually wear out the dust shields....But this is far less of an issue then the engine breathing in unfiltered air thru the bearing....... As under some conditions these engines will actively breath thru the nose and will suck up large amounts of dirt, which absolutely destroys the front bearing in a very short amount of time...........this is far more of a concern then a slight bit of fuel seeping out the front bearing.,....
Originally Posted by roychan69
(Post 12660988)
Imbue is correct, it might not be the front bearing issue at all; if it ain't leaking nitro out from the front bearing after a tank of running, it's got nothing to do with that.
RC engine don't really 'seal' that well, if you put a fair amount of after-run oil or WD-40 in your engine and leave it there, sometimes you'll see the oil leak out from there, it's very normal. that still doesn't address the issue of....what if the front bearing is drawing atmosphere INTO the engine. No one has addressed that yet and earlier in this thread or another one i was reading is that seems to be a common problem causing premature wear on the bearing due to it drawing in dirt and if the draw is bad enough, that would indeed cause tuning problems. I want to know how to make it leak oil which i have read is done by plugging up the bypass port. So as i have stated REPEATEDLY, i have already discovered a leak is definitely there with the air and soapy water test. There is a leak in the front bearing, i have proven this as fact, and i'm not just trying to "pin it down as front bearing". IT IS FACT Please read my posts before you comment. This is a hotly debated argument but it seems that almost all nitro engines leak in the front bearing to an extent, but its best for them to leak OUTWARDS which as stated before by others, the oil helps to create this seal. All i am trying to do is achieve this by making my engine leak outwards from the front seal, my plane leaks outwards and runs just fine, my car is almost certainly drawing inwards as to no oil leakage |
Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12661010)
as the first quote addresses the leakage, its not oil dripping out i'm concerned about its air leaking in causing it not to tune right
that still doesn't address the issue of....what if the front bearing is drawing atmosphere INTO the engine. No one has addressed that yet and earlier in this thread or another one i was reading is that seems to be a common problem causing premature wear on the bearing due to it drawing in dirt and if the draw is bad enough, that would indeed cause tuning problems. I want to know how to make it leak oil which i have read is done by plugging up the bypass port. So as i have stated REPEATEDLY, i have already discovered a leak is definitely there with the air and soapy water test. There is a leak in the front bearing, i have proven this as fact, and i'm not just trying to "pin it down as front bearing". IT IS FACT Please read my posts before you comment. This is a hotly debated argument but it seems that almost all nitro engines leak in the front bearing to an extent, but its best for them to leak OUTWARDS which as stated before by others, the oil helps to create this seal. All i am trying to do is achieve this by making my engine leak outwards from the front seal, my plane leaks outwards and runs just fine, my car is almost certainly drawing inwards as to no oil leakage FWIW though, the front bearing doesn't seal your engine. So the bubble test doesn't mean anything. |
You should break down and inspect your engine first. Look for score lines along the crank and scratches or score on the piston and sleeve and also do a compression test, check the rod for slop and also check your crank pin. If you know how to do all that and everything is good then replace both the bearings and order the BuKU front engine cap. If your engine is good and your tune is right that will solve all your issues. If you are not capable of inspecting your engine yourself send it off to RC Renew. He will tear it down and let you know what's up before doing any work and he can also replace anything you need. Good luck.
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finally some good advice, thankyou for your input and that buku thing looks pretty good
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looks like someone could just take something like a milk jug lid or something similar and a tube of some grease gun grease for semi truck brake cans n such and make your own for less than 5 bucks
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Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12663120)
looks like someone could just take something like a milk jug lid or something similar and a tube of some grease gun grease for semi truck brake cans n such and make your own for less than 5 bucks
This is not a hobby for the poor but when the poor try and join in it usually makes them poorererererer. ;) |
Originally Posted by Jaz240
(Post 12663855)
If it does not "snap" and seal tightly on the front of your engine case, over the bearing it will be a complete waste of time. The worst thing that can happen is if you try a homemade version and it spins on the crankshaft or with your bearing. That will cause all kinda of havoc and all because you tried to save a few $
This is not a hobby for the poor but when the poor try and join in it usually makes them poorererererer. ;) |
Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12663973)
that is why "or something similar". which was insinuating finding something that fits snug. Its not cause i'm poor, its cause i'm cheap. Blowing $20 when it is not necessary on what looks like a $0.50 over glorified milk lid with a hole in it, is what makes people go poor. How do you think rich people got to were they are? by being cheap that's how
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
(Post 12664109)
:lol: you get 3 for $20 plus the grease. How much is your time worth? Rich people work smart, not hard. Do what you will. It's your money and your time but if you mess it up, you still have a crappy running engine
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Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12664171)
I was planning on buying it anyway. I'm way to lazy to go through that work. All i know is, with the air test, engine leaks at the front bearing but when the engine is running, oil/fuel doesn't leak out, if its not leaking outwards, it must be drawing atmosphere inwards. I read on another thread that blocking the little hole that sits right behind the bearing helps make the engine leak oil through the front bearing instead of drawing it in. If that is true, at least that would be a permanent fix which would never need to be regreased or fiddled with again
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Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12664171)
I was planning on buying it anyway. I'm way to lazy to go through that work. All i know is, with the air test, engine leaks at the front bearing but when the engine is running, oil/fuel doesn't leak out, if its not leaking outwards, it must be drawing atmosphere inwards. I read on another thread that blocking the little hole that sits right behind the bearing helps make the engine leak oil through the front bearing instead of drawing it in. If that is true, at least that would be a permanent fix which would never need to be regreased or fiddled with again
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Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12660805)
redcat aftershock 3.5. I spend more time trying to make it run than i do running it
All this over a piece of shit redcat....wtf...:rolleyes::rolleyes:. Throw that trash in the garbage dewd...phuc...:deathstar By your "cheap" ass a "cheap" engine and have some FUN!!!!... There are plenty to choose from... What a WASTE of Nitro and more importantly....Time...:tire: |
Originally Posted by neophyte6
(Post 12664754)
^^^...:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
All this over a piece of shit redcat....wtf...:rolleyes::rolleyes:. Throw that trash in the garbage dewd...phuc...:deathstar By your "cheap" ass a "cheap" engine and have some FUN!!!!... There are plenty to choose from... What a WASTE of Nitro and more importantly....Time...:tire: |
Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 12664403)
If you think your engine is leaking all you have to do is gently spray a little brake cleaner towards the engines front bearing while the engine is running...If the engine stalls instantly you know your engine is drawing in atmosphere...its pretty simple to test......Then if you are leaking you can block the bypass and then retest with the brake cleaner again...Usually plugging the bypass will make a big difference in how well the engine handles the brake cleaner test..But where plugging the bypass really comes into full effect is when the engines are run hard with an aggressive( lean ) race tune...By doing this we are seeing a huge increase in front bearing life , to the point front bearings are often lasting the entire lifetime of the engines, even in very dusty conditions...... Only downside is if your tuned rich and not driving hard the engine will want to leak out the front...But IMO that is a small penalty to pay for the extra protection it offers when you run the engines hard and lean.....
Originally Posted by D8
(Post 12664916)
no need to be calling his car or truck or engine or whatever he has a POS dude.. everyone needs to start somewhere.. I am sure that he will learn a thing or two with his redcat and move into some else..
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Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12665493)
Well i don't race with it. I don't even know anyone else with a nitro r/c car. The thing runs pretty good at full throttle but as soon as you come off it, thats when it craps out. Even with the idle set screw all the way screwed in, still just won't idle, pretty much won't run longer than 5 seconds anywhere below half throttle regardless of rich or lean needle setting. Can you use your front bearing again after taking it out or is it shot once you pull it from the motor?
Ha yeah it has taught me a lot. NOT TO BUY A REDCAT haha. I agree, it is a POS. Other people have just about gave up the hobby cause of these things. I think i shall by a savage x 4.6 I hear they run pretty good without problems but hey, i already bought the redcat so might as well make the most of it and try to get it working right. I didn't know anything about nitro when i bought it. Stumbled upon it surfing the internet and bought it without much research into the brand. I have a plane i fly now and the redcat mostly sits cause everytime i use it i have to resist the urge to throw it into a wood chipper I believe your looking for a complex solution to a very basic problem..... By you just telling me it wont idle even with the idle screw turned all the way in tells me your needles are going to be completely out of range and the likely source of all your issues...Before we even consider looking at blocking the bypass we need to cover some of the basics.. what fuel are you running and what glowplug are you running ? |
Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 12665539)
I believe your looking for a complex solution to a very basic problem..... By you just telling me it wont idle even with the idle screw turned all the way in tells me your needles are going to be completely out of range and the likely source of all your issues...Before we even consider looking at blocking the bypass we need to cover some of the basics..
what fuel are you running and what glowplug are you running ? |
Originally Posted by D8
(Post 12664916)
no need to be calling his car or truck or engine or whatever he has a POS dude.. everyone needs to start somewhere.. I am sure that he will learn a thing or two with his redcat and move into some else..
Theres "No Need" for you to come play Thread Police either... The Man in question actually agrees with My post because it is the TRUTH...:eek: Now "dewd" go put on some Grown Man Pants and stop Phucing crying over non offensive posts on a public forum.....:rolleyes::rolleyes: |
Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12665772)
I've spent hours playing with those needles with the idle set at 1mm or so. Even got a hold of redcat for resetting the needles and the thing still won't run at factory reset settings. Thing will be running great and acting like it should then out of no where just starts acting up. I am using 20% nitro regular old torco fuel and a medium glow plug
you have spent hours cranking on the needles...trust me bro, that is not how you get a nitro to run..... Also a 1 mm idle gap is far too big as it is, anything larger is is way out of range.........You want to set a 0.5 mm idle gap, then set your LSN around that....... also fuel isn't just fuel..some fuels are absolute junk and others can be quite good.....what is the oil content of the swill your trying to run ? |
Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 12667065)
you have spent hours cranking on the needles...trust me bro, that is not how you get a nitro to run.....
Also a 1 mm idle gap is far too big as it is, anything larger is is way out of range.........You want to set a 0.5 mm idle gap, then set your LSN around that....... also fuel isn't just fuel..some fuels are absolute junk and others can be quite good.....what is the oil content of the swill your trying to run ? The bottle doesn't say the oil content but lots of other people use the same torco fuel without issue. Bought it off Amazon. The crap I bought from hobbytown made my car run even worse |
Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12667366)
Hey i never said "cranking" i have done it like your supposed to with adjustments in increments between 1/16 and 1/8 turns and if i set my gap to 0.5 it wouldn't run longer than literally half a second after i backed off the throttle. If your engine runs smoothly and reliably at 0.5 i think you have a carb air leak. Before i sealed my carb on my plane engine i could have the throttle /butterfly plate closed completely all the way and the engine would keep running. Now if it is me screwing up the needles as you say, I can see it as possible if the carb on my engine is one those extremely touchy ones where if you adjust one needle, you have to adjust the other. I was running it yesterday and it actually ran decent but it still wouldn't idle for more than 10 seconds or so and as i was tuning it, i was richening the high speed needle and every time i did it would die quicker at idle until i leaned the low speed needle but yet the low speed did not exhibit any signs of being too rich. Maybe a lil extra smoke but not significant. and i have spent equally as much time on forums looking at how to tune it. Tried to take it to hobbytown to have them try to tune it a couple times but everytime i show up, the guy who does it isn't there and i live 60 miles from hobbytown which is the closest hobbyshop i can get to
The bottle doesn't say the oil content but lots of other people use the same torco fuel without issue. Bought it off Amazon. The crap I bought from hobbytown made my car run even worse Carry on then you already have things covered ! What do I know about tuning a engine anyways ! |
Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12667366)
The bottle doesn't say the oil content but lots of other people use the same torco fuel without issue.
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Originally Posted by neophyte6
(Post 12666171)
^^^..:rolleyes::rolleyes:...^^^
Theres "No Need" for you to come play Thread Police either... The Man in question actually agrees with My post because it is the TRUTH...:eek: Now "dewd" go put on some Grown Man Pants and stop Phucing crying over non offensive posts on a public forum.....:rolleyes::rolleyes: I like to respect people.. that simple! Hell.. that is another reasons why this world is messed up as it is... the lack of respect that people has for each other.. but again, That is just me.. ;) |
Originally Posted by wikitjuggla
(Post 12667366)
if i set my gap to 0.5 it wouldn't run longer than literally half a second after i backed off the throttle. If your engine runs smoothly and reliably at 0.5 i think you have a carb air leak.
You have alot of very knowledgeable people trying to help you here, you need to listen what they are trying to tell you, these guys dont make up the rules, there just stating facts. |
:deathstar
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Pretty sure neal knows what he is talking about.. close the idle gap to .4 to .5mm and lean the low end needle to where it will idle.and always have the engine at running temps and heat soak in the chassis if your new to tuning. Youll chase needles allday with that large of a idle gap. Its super rich to keep the rpm down to an idle at that gap.. hope this helps.
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I'm not trying to say i know it all about tuning or offend. Its just, I have read every forum, watched every video, practiced and practiced on the car with the tuning thing and it never makes a difference. And after i tune it, it passes the pinch test. This is just how my engine runs and i'm not bogging it down with extra fuel to compensate for the idle needle being set way open. The idle is so high that the car moves without me opening the throttle. It dies otherwise. And even if that 0.5 gap works on other engines, this one would die instantaneously. Even at factory needle defaults or slightly leaner it won't idle at a 1mm gap let alone 0.5. If I actually had a problem with my needle settings, wouldn't it run like crap all the time? cause sometimes it works perfectly and then a tank and a half later out of nowhere starts crapping out on me again |
14% is plenty of oil, most times 8% is plenty. On almost every brand engine the "factory setting" is where the needles come from the factory for break in. If the engine is broke in then that would be way too rich. If it is leaking air from the front bearing then the idle would be high and it would still run with almost no idle gap. Try the idle gap at .5-.7mm adjust the lsn to get the idle speed, lean to raise the idle rich to lower.
Rex |
I'll try doing as you guys say with the gap thing and needle thing but i'm almost positive its not going to work but i'll give it a shot. Oh and when i opened it out of the box brand new, it took me an hour just to get it to sputter a little bit before i even touched the needles and yes i primed it first
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Would a 4.6 savage motor fit on a .21 mount? Would this even be practical? I'd probably destroy all of the gears with that motor in my crappy aftershock
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