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-   -   Go Engine USA 2011 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/465409-go-engine-usa-2011-thread.html)

MasterComander 04-11-2012 03:51 AM

mmm sowey... but yeah it slipped my mind to just turn the flywheel with a screw driver.. will be useing that way as of now.. ran a tank today with the hard springs and the buggy runs smoooth... will see how it goes with the extended fuel line.. on track.. may need some minor adjustments.. ?? who has used this fuel line set up??? or does.. . feedback.. pls

nitroexpress 04-11-2012 10:02 AM


Originally Posted by MasterComander (Post 10587295)
mmm sowey... but yeah it slipped my mind to just turn the flywheel with a screw driver.. will be useing that way as of now.. ran a tank today with the hard springs and the buggy runs smoooth... will see how it goes with the extended fuel line.. on track.. may need some minor adjustments.. ?? who has used this fuel line set up??? or does.. . feedback.. pls

As with a garden hose, a longer line will tend to reduce flow. The purpose of a long fuel line is to increase run time when you are on your lid. Varying pressure line length can be a tuning item, but most just set and forget.

Not a fan of a wandering fuel line. I just coil it around and zip tie it to the front brace. So how many feet of fuel line are you running? :)

C-Trickle 04-11-2012 10:26 AM


Originally Posted by WatchOut (Post 10528261)
Anybody tried the GXII-5HRO in an IGT car? If the bottom end is decent, seems like it might be a good fit.

I have one in a Team C GT8L. Screamer of an engine! Clutch it with 1.0 or 1.1 springs to get your bottom end. I'm using the VP Pro Aluminum 3 shoe clutch. I had it on an Ofna 086, but the Go 2072 is on it's way. It would burn rubber from a dead stop, so plenty of bottom end. One of the guys here has a Nova Flash Rally, and it would keep with it until about the middle of 2nd gear. So definitely a great engine choice for the GT cars. :nod::nod:

grizz1 04-11-2012 01:04 PM


Originally Posted by C-Trickle (Post 10588687)
I have one in a Team C GT8L. Screamer of an engine! Clutch it with 1.0 or 1.1 springs to get your bottom end. I'm using the VP Pro Aluminum 3 shoe clutch. I had it on an Ofna 086, but the Go 2072 is on it's way. It would burn rubber from a dead stop, so plenty of bottom end. One of the guys here has a Nova Flash Rally, and it would keep with it until about the middle of 2nd gear. So definitely a great engine choice for the GT cars. :nod::nod:

If it burned rubber with the 086, wait until you fit the 2072 :sneaky:
The 2072 will give you increased bottom end, without a great reduction in top (if any), plus the 2072 has a bark all of it's own. It will howl in the GT :)

WatchOut 04-11-2012 02:06 PM

I went ahead and picked one up while Amain was still blowing out the 2 needle versions. Plunked it in the DM1S and just working through break in. Not yet ready to open it up, but it feels like it's going to be a really good match for GT. Running an 0801 for now, but have a 2072 on the way. Should be in fine form for the TZ GP :).

C-Trickle 04-11-2012 09:36 PM


Originally Posted by WatchOut (Post 10589540)
I went ahead and picked one up while Amain was still blowing out the 2 needle versions. Plunked it in the DM1S and just working through break in. Not yet ready to open it up, but it feels like it's going to be a really good match for GT. Running an 0801 for now, but have a 2072 on the way. Should be in fine form for the TZ GP :).

Bwahahaha. That's why I snagged up the GXII. I had always wanted to try the Go's, then the price I couldn't resist! I'll have the GXII as my main engine for TZ GP then a Dynamite as a back up. :nod:

curacing2 04-12-2012 03:44 PM


Originally Posted by MasterComander (Post 10587295)
mmm sowey... but yeah it slipped my mind to just turn the flywheel with a screw driver.. will be useing that way as of now.. ran a tank today with the hard springs and the buggy runs smoooth... will see how it goes with the extended fuel line.. on track.. may need some minor adjustments.. ?? who has used this fuel line set up??? or does.. . feedback.. pls

I couldn't see from any of those pic were the line comes out of the tank, Never been a fan of running it behind the engine and having it sit on the header, have you tested your fuel capacity?..it may be over 125mls

BMenard17 04-12-2012 04:19 PM

Anyone using the go to power a truggy? if so how do you like it? what run time are you getting and lastly hows the power?

hustler777 04-12-2012 06:49 PM

ran the gxII all last year in a truggy and it was decent with the stock carb, but when i swapped to a nova carb HOLY S!$T!!!! it was a new motor all together....could probly push 11 min if i drove nice :sneaky:

grizz1 04-13-2012 01:07 PM

The new 3 needle GXII (which you guys in the US should see soon) will have similar performance to the Nova carbed motor Hustler mentioned.
The 3 needle carb is quite different to the original 2 needle. It gives a stronger idle, and more power across the board - but smooth too. Run time is good (we have seen up to 12 min + in truggy under good conditions).

Eivind E 04-13-2012 04:55 PM


Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 10598576)
The new 3 needle GXII (which you guys in the US should see soon) will have similar performance to the Nova carbed motor Hustler mentioned.
The 3 needle carb is quite different to the original 2 needle. It gives a stronger idle, and more power across the board - but smooth too. Run time is good (we have seen up to 12 min + in truggy under good conditions).

I was fitting the 3 needle carb to the crank case just now, and while it fits just fine in there, it doesn't go in as deep as I would like.
The O ring on the carb neck is not making proper contact with the crank case.
Will this be a problem?
Obviously I tried to push it in there as hard as I could, but it is not going in any further.
Should I take it out, try to smear some silicone shock oil on it and stick it in again, run it as is or what?

nitroexpress 04-13-2012 06:20 PM


Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 10598576)
The new 3 needle GXII (which you guys in the US should see soon) will have similar performance to the Nova carbed motor Hustler mentioned.
The 3 needle carb is quite different to the original 2 needle. It gives a stronger idle, and more power across the board - but smooth too. Run time is good (we have seen up to 12 min + in truggy under good conditions).

I could be wrong, but doesn't the Nova carb use a short LSN design? I would expect the Nova to tune differently and feel different.

jenson40 04-13-2012 06:25 PM

anyone every tired a werks b5 carb just wonderin if i need to use it in a pinch

grizz1 04-13-2012 06:59 PM


Originally Posted by Eivind E (Post 10599403)
I was fitting the 3 needle carb to the crank case just now, and while it fits just fine in there, it doesn't go in as deep as I would like.
The O ring on the carb neck is not making proper contact with the crank case.
Will this be a problem?
Obviously I tried to push it in there as hard as I could, but it is not going in any further.
Should I take it out, try to smear some silicone shock oil on it and stick it in again, run it as is or what?

If you have the GO 3 needle it should fit flush. Make sure the O ring in the crankcase (OR-004) has not gone hard. They normally stop at the O Ring and then pop over it to fit snuggly into the crankcase.


Originally Posted by nitroexpress (Post 10599714)
I could be wrong, but doesn't the Nova carb use a short LSN design? I would expect the Nova to tune differently and feel different.

That's why I said "similar performance". I never said it was going to be identical :)
The qualities I described are what we have found with the GO 3 needle carb as opposed to the 2 needle. Silmilar in description to what Hustler has found between the 2 needle and the Nova carb (going on previous posts a while back).

Eivind E 04-14-2012 08:26 AM


Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 10599886)
If you have the GO 3 needle it should fit flush. Make sure the O ring in the crankcase (OR-004) has not gone hard. They normally stop at the O Ring and then pop over it to fit snuggly into the crankcase.

Ok, so is there a trick to make it "pop over", or "enter" the o-ring?
I was considering smearing it with silicone shock oil to make it enter more easily.


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