is it worth it??
if anyone has one what has one how does it compare to traditional break-in?

I know a lot of guys that uses this way to break in engines. They swear by it and I tell you that they dont flame out much.

It's one of the best rc items that i have ever purchased.. I love mine..

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...natives-2.html

I love using mine, so much easier than breaking your starter box. It does take a trick of how to rotate the prop not just by holding a drill on the prop. It's more of a bump action that I have found to work.

Just buy it.....you will now have a lot of new friends at the track too

Don't let anyone tell you its not worth it. If they tell you that they don't have one

An Airplane Nose Cone starter is what you need to do it properly, a Drill is imo a little too awkward and doesn't have the initial Torque.

i have HONESTLY never tried 1....but it does sound like a cool thing to have....BUT remember...its all about HEAT CYCLES not RICH TANKS even if its on a bench or not!...KEEP IT WARM @ above 200 degrees F

I used to use a break-in bench, but have now switched to just regular heat-cycle in the car. It doesn't really make a difference IMHO. You can do bad break-ins in a bench, and good break-ins in the car, and the other way around.

what are some of the benefits??

I agree 100% with this assessment. I use an engine heater and the hsn needle to maintain the temps above 200. I figured out on my first one that if you do not get the temp over 200 it is not even putting a dent into that pinch. Follow the hudy manual directions with first tank 1/4 throttle, 2nd tank 1/2 throttle and 3rd tank at 70% and mine have been running flawlessly.

Yeah, I saw that in the video and looks pretty slick. Might have to get one. I use a regular corded 3/8 drills and it has plenty of torque but just holding it on the nose cone and turning over the engine does not seem to work for me. I have to start the drill while off the nose cone and then just bump the nose cone and it works fine that way. For those having problems starting a new engine, if it does not fire I just keep leaning out the bottom until it does. I usually find the bottom end needles are super rich from the factory.

Benefits to me are the time savings and consistent repeatable process. Not issues with starter box not turning over tight motor or having the motor vapor lock in the buggy, so flip the prop with your hand it drops the piston back down. Less than hour normally for me to do it and that is letting the motor cool back down in between tanks to normal air temp for the heat cycle processs. All while vehicle tires do not get worn out and the rest of the vehicle stays clean. The other benefit that I like is for tuning my hsn. I found it easier to hear the sweet spot mounted in the bench from the engine than it is at a track while other background noises are interfering. My OS speed hsn has not been touched in two months from my initial bench setting. All that I have touched is my lsn for the days where it is getting a little cooler out now.

One HUGE benefit in my mind is you do not have the wear and tear on the car. Especially if you are running on the street, that is hard on the driveline components. You just can't beat the controlled enviroment of the Break in Bench. I have done over 30 motors now and most of them get over the 10 gallon mark before they need a pinch.

I agree the airplane starter is the way to go!!! I used to just jam that red rubber exhaust coupler that comes with the Hudy bench into the white rubber part of the airplane starter. This gets the engine started great but the exhaust coupler sticks on the props cone and gets sent for a ride when it finally comes off. I got sick of lookin thru my garage for where it landed so a buddy of mine made an aluminum piece that bolts to the starter and hallowed it out enough that the rubber exhaust coupler fits down in there super tight. Now that rubber piece doesn't stick to the prop cone after the engine is running, it stays attached to the starter like it should.

Another thing that works is just pull that white rubber piece out of the starter and put it back in backwards, that smaller hole will go right over the Hudy cone and fire it up. My only complaint with that is the white rubber is somewhat brittle and will break up a little and leave small bits of rubber on the shroud and cone, to me that stands a chance of getting in the carb tho.

is it really only three tanks????