That's funny stuff right there. Are you serious? The answer would be because he gets them for free. Or even better because he gets paid to run them. I'm not knocking what he runs, or anything for that matter. I just LMAO when I see posts like that. Ryan is a great dude and I'm sure he runs what he wants to, but your logic that a product is of high quality because a pro driver runs it is flawed.

first:
A 2 gallon motor...
wouldnt last a race day... by the time you broke it in etc.

- also, theres more to the story of "free" then you think with alpha

as for the person not liking them. buy one from me. let me tune it every time you use it and ill give you a 8 gallon guarantee, and yes this includes keeping up(if not passing) the expensive "overrated & overpriced" engines.

and no jammin i am NOT saying the cheaper engines ARE better im saying they sure do give them "a run for there money"

as for someone saying about runtime on cheaper engines,
a guy at our track does 9.5mins(safe, not run out) on a gx7r with 2072 pipe in a mp9. but he does 10 min qualifiers before it runs out completly

JAMMIN, 808's right there.
theres more then meets the eye with "free" from alpha.
same guarantee i run

ooh, 9.5mins in a mp9 seems about right on that track... might have to try one of them gx7r's one day

Zing right over your head. You guys totally missed my point. I don't care if it is Alpha, OS, Novarossi, whatever. Just because a pro driver runs it doesn't mean it will last a zillion gallons. That argument may get you some sales from beginners, but anyone that actually knows the hobby knows that doesn't mean $hit!

How did Alpha even get into this. I thought this was about the HPI engine(JL, Killer 9/10)????

+1

Please stick to the subject or go to The $200 motors vs $550 motors thread...

Hi.

I've been in contact with Hot Bodies D8 / HPI Pro driver John Holmes from England. He was the test pilot on that engine, and has been racing them for a year now. Here is the setup he is running:

Stock engine.

Stock shims.

HPI R8 plug.
(He is very impressed with those plugs, and I'm going to try them for sure ) R8 are cold and R7 are warmer.

Stock 8 mm venturi.

Running 30% Optifuel.

JP-4 pipe.

Very fast on the straight and enough bottom.

About 9 min runtime.

John:
"I have been using them for a year now I was the test pilot,the components are very good for lasting , just replaced a couple of bearings due to running engine in very wet weather but other than that no problems"

Some backyard testing:

After 6 liter of fuel, I couldn't get the engine to accelerate perfect like it did before. I removed a 0,2 mm headshim, and that solved the problem. Like HPI suggests, the standard 0,8 mm headshims are for 25% nitro, so a total of 0,6 mm shims fits my 20% fuel great.

6 mm vs 8 mm venturi:

With JP-3 pipe, 6 mm venturi and 20% nitro, the engine runs very well. Nice bottom and a ok top (33.000 RPM).

Then I put the stock 8 mm venturi in the carburator. I had to turn the HSN 7/10 of a turn OUT, to get the setting right!!! The bottom became less aggressive. Actually it sounded like too soft clutch springs. The top rpm was now 34800 RPM.

Next was my Dynamite 086 pipe: The HSN was very rich, and I had to lean it nearly 1/3 turn! Bottom was a little better and the engine got 35400 RPM at WOT.

Last up was Novarossi 9901:
Very similar in performace with the 086. The big different was the tuning. Had to lean the HSN 1/4 of a turn, to get it right.

hello there,
just got my HPI Nitro Star engine. As i understand, the best combination for this engine is with 9901 Novarossi pipe Hope that will work for me . any more suggestions about venturi, tunnig or anything else.
this will be my first season on nitro buggy model, so any help concerning this engine + pipe would be appreciated.

Hi.

I really really like my HPI. Compared to many other engines, this baby are very easy to tune (everything is relative ). I would say its the best engine for a newcomer into nitro.

For me the 9901 are the best. One thing I also like with the 9901, are the header. Its made of alu. Many other companies use some sort of metal (iron) (e.g. Jammin, SH, Hong Nor, NOSRAM, Picco etc.) and they break from time to time. The last 4 month I've seen 2 of those headers break. Perhaps its randomness, but I've never in my 25 years in nitro RC seen a alu header break.
I was a mechanic for a RB Killer 10 (same internal parts + carburator but more expensive ) engine at a race in the start of March. It was running with a RB 2045 pipe set and despite what many other say, it worked very well.

Start with the stock venturi, and learn how to tune. After that you can try smaller ( I really like my Novarossi 6 mm venturi). The smaller venturi, the more sensitive the needles become.

Use the Break-In Bible for break in.

Cheers

Thanks a lot. SOmehow i feel, i got a really good motor

nearly all of the TW engines go alpha etc last far longer then two gallons. someones having a cry because his 500$ engine lasts as long as cheaper engines with same performance

OS makes a great engine.

Who had killed their HPI/RB Killer/OFNA JL engines after only 2 gallons?

Like Ryan wrote in the GO thread, he gets +7 gallon of every engine he got. That doesn't mean the engines are worn out, they are just not suitable for races anymore...

Hi,

I have the same engine ,but my problem is, I couldn't get the engine to accelerate perfect like it did before when i start the engine at the begining 4-5 minutes its good but later its loses the power in A-main 10 minute race when out cornering

My needle settings is LSN:2 HSN 2.75-3 CCW , fuel is HPI Optimix %25 ,Glow plug R7-R8,pipe is Dynamite 053 and the heat is 110-130 centigrade

Any suggestions?

Thanks

i have the same engine ,

have you got any suggestion for needle settings ?

thanks