![]() |
Originally Posted by akiyama77
(Post 7926540)
Lets blow this out of control guys, first Brian, I did not demand a replacement, second, if really didn't like Ac racing, I'd tear my new clutch out and toss it, remove them form my signature. I've never bashed the performance of the motor, its great, and when I first contacted Ac, PR I didn't get any type of reason or explanation for this. Its amazing the PM I got, just opinions, and if Jason would have told me that its a new material etc then thats fine, but Jason don't you remember telling me that you had your 3 motors apart and none of them look like this? This is why I thought this is an isolated insident.
Again I am not disappionted with the performance of the motor, and now that others have pointed out what it is, and the link (thanks Jason) this could have been resolved, but I had to go online to get the answer. Hope all this info helped. Just dont be so quick next time to assume there is somthing wrong with a product just because it is different. Jason |
Originally Posted by janderson78
(Post 7926182)
First you should check your facts. It is not 70.00 for a carb. If you indeed need to replace the carb it is 34.99 one of the lowest prices on the maket here is a link! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ete-Carburetor
Also you should read or know more before you comment. We also offer an optional needle set if you would like it to tune more like a Nova style motor and again it is not 70.00 but 13.99 Here is the link for that if you need it. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...dle-Tuning-Set Thanks for you comments |
Well when you come into the thread and say stuff like that it seems to be directed to the engines the thread is about. I was just wanting to point out to you your price was off by 100%.
Also our carbs work flawlessly. The needles are just an option part like any other upgrade on your buggy. Yes it is a Go Based engine but you can get two for the price of one Nova or OS if you go with the +4 or the Speeds. So when you get 5-10 gallons out of your 400.00 engine I will be happy getting 10-20 total out of my two engines. It is all what you are happy with. It is the Ford Toyota debate of 20 years ago. Pay twice as much for the ford but get twice the life out of the Toyota or Honda |
Originally Posted by janderson78
(Post 7927138)
Well when you come into the thread and say stuff like that it seems to be directed to the engines the thread is about. I was just wanting to point out to you your price was off by 100%.
Also our carbs work flawlessly. The needles are just an option part like a y other upgrade on your buggy. Yes it is a Go Based engine but you can get two for the price of one Nova or OS if you go with the +4 or the Speeds. So when you get 5-10 gallons out of your 400.00 engine I will be happy geting 10-20 total ot of my two engines. It is all what you are happy with. Ot is the Ford Toyota debate of 20 years ago. Pay twice as much for the for but get twice the life out of the Toyota or Honda |
only tuning issues i've had are trying to tune with an old plug then going back with a new one. carbs are good, matter of fact i've used the go carbs on rebuilt novas and they ran great.
|
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC
(Post 7927101)
Well I wasn't personally attacking your motors but since you felt the need to correct me let me clarify, I was saying why buy a cheap mill such as these, gotech's, alphas for $200 and then have to put a quality carb on them http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lus-21-5-T21BF to make them run right, why in the world would you ever buy a replacement carb from the same manufacturer if the original didn't last but a couple gallons? I've seen this game before, the money is always saved by using cheaper materials, if the materials were on par of the other major manufacturers for less money there would be no rb, novarossi or o.s. Every few months or so some new motor from the same taiwan factory comes out with a different cooling head that everyone deems the latest and greatest budget racing mill. And it is always the same story, you have to tune this different then other mills, theres a different break in process, you have to rerod it at a gallon. I really don't care what people run or spend there money on but don't tell me I should read or know more before I comment, this is just another rebadged tawain motor and there's nothing more to know as they've been out for a while.
Now, I can't tell you that the "budget" engines use the most costly materials or the most expensive bearings. But I can tell you that the "budget" engines of today are far superior to the ones of only 3 or 4 years ago. I've run GO engines for almost 4 years. Yes, early generation GOs had carb problems, they were resolved in the following generation. Some had rod wear problems. My belief is too much pinch caused the rod wear during breakin. This has ALSO been resolved. While the Taiwanese engines may not be perfect, they ARE striving to be. Every revision has been to improve the performance and durability of the engines. I can't justify the cost of the of the "upper crust" engines. I'm tired of the "my dog is bigger than your dog" BS that you "euro snobs" are trying to spread on my rose garden. There may not be a new Sheriff in town (yet), but there's a lot of Deputies that keep getting more and more qualified. |
Do you really think that 3"x3" chunk of "high quality" alloy billet costs $150 more? NO! Do the engine bearings cost $150 more? NO! Does labor and markup (because of their NAME) cost $150 more? Perhaps. These products are cheap because the labor lives in shit-squalor...as long as you sleep well...there's not much of an argument. |
Originally Posted by motomatt
(Post 7927671)
I don't think anyone disputes the quality of the European made engines, but I'm getting really sick of those "upper crust" racers that tell me Taiwan made engines are junk. These engines need NOTHING modded, repaired, improved, or replaced to go fast and run well. Just how much more do you think high quality materials cost versus low quality ones for an RC engine? Do you really think that 3"x3" chunk of "high quality" alloy billet costs $150 more? NO! Do the engine bearings cost $150 more? NO! Does labor and markup (because of their NAME) cost $150 more? Perhaps.
Now, I can't tell you that the "budget" engines use the most costly materials or the most expensive bearings. But I can tell you that the "budget" engines of today are far superior to the ones of only 3 or 4 years ago. I've run GO engines for almost 4 years. Yes, early generation GOs had carb problems, they were resolved in the following generation. Some had rod wear problems. My belief is too much pinch caused the rod wear during breakin. This has ALSO been resolved. While the Taiwanese engines may not be perfect, they ARE striving to be. Every revision has been to improve the performance and durability of the engines. I can't justify the cost of the of the "upper crust" engines. I'm tired of the "my dog is bigger than your dog" BS that you "euro snobs" are trying to spread on my rose garden. There may not be a new Sheriff in town (yet), but there's a lot of Deputies that keep getting more and more qualified. |
I'm tired of the "my dog is bigger than your dog" BS that you "euro snobs" are trying to spread on my rose garden. |
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC
(Post 7927900)
Lots of great analogy's there with deputies and rose gardens and all, as far as justifying the cost of a quality mill I beleive a Nova p5 with a coupon at amain is $225 shipped. Like I said I don't care what people run but ur not gonna tell me they are the same quality, that's great that Go has done several different revisions to make the motor better but it's to bad it was on the consumers dime, as to the rod wear being resolved on the Go engines is that why they included a new spare rod when you purchase the motor :lol:? Geez I wish Nova or O.S. would give me free motor parts, oh wait there not needed. I'm done stating my point, I don't care who makes it but I do care how it runs and I've been racing long enough to know that I've never seen one of these motors go the distance. Good luck and happy racing...
Rex |
would the D5 be a good motor/pipe combo to run in a truggy, hows the break in on these things(is it like a werks-short and sweet/or like a nova slow and painful) and also hows the low to mid power and is any one running a P3 plug???
thanks for your response |
Originally Posted by 22Racer
(Post 7928211)
If you were at the J Concepts race Memorial day weekend a $200 Alpha cleaned up in buggy. That motor has been running flawless since March and has over 6 gallons on it now.
Rex |
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC
(Post 7928288)
I was there and I'm assuming that was Kendall's? Was that the same motor I saw him run in Fort Dodge at the second round of the RC Pro North Division in his truggy?
Rex |
I fail to realize how anyone can bash this or any other product without owning it. If you don't care or feel the product is inferior why bother posting in a thread designed to support these engines?
|
Originally Posted by liquidkool
(Post 7928261)
would the D5 be a good motor/pipe combo to run in a truggy, hows the break in on these things(is it like a werks-short and sweet/or like a nova slow and painful) and also hows the low to mid power and is any one running a P3 plug???
thanks for your response All this talk about needles didn't matter to me cause I tuned an hour at a time and never had any issues, maybe just lucky I don't know. But I agree that don't knock it till you try it and even then go buy something else the rest haven't had any problems. |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:12 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.