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Originally Posted by akiyama77
(Post 7925278)
I am happy with the motors performance, but highly concerned with the pistion, I've had 3 OS motors, several Nova's and Werks ,and never saw this before, so I'm not sure what to make out of it, manufacter doesn't seemed to be concerned, so buyers beware.
I feel this a very unfair thing to say about my company. Why dont I post all the emails were we have done are very best to help you and how you have clamed this is one of the best engines you have ran and can not belever the price. That is just a sum of all the email he has sent. " First let me say this. "HIS ENGINE RUNS AWESOME AND HAS NO ISSUES with it running" that would warrent us sending him a replacement part. He has demanded a new piston and sleeve because he dosnt like the way it looks. These are race engines and we do the very best we can to keep EVERY CUSTOMER happy. But if we replaced every part every time someone said "Hey it runs awesome but I dont like the way the smoke smells or I dont like the look of the color on the head." As most of you know this guy is not the first to see this in any brand motor including NOVA and OS. It is not a preformance issue. Now if he would have had a Rod Bushing Crack during breakin then it would not have been an issue. BUT EVERYONE KNOWS ------ THESE ARE RACE ENGINES--------- No one knows what happens to any of these engines once they leave the store they are purchased from. I have seen people do this here with EVERY BRAND including Novarossi. I am glad most people here are smart enough to see through this for what it is. A guy with a brand he has never seen before woried for no reason. |
Originally Posted by akiyama77
(Post 7925001)
I have the 21C version, and this is just a heads up or FYI of what can happen, my motor has 1/2 gallon on it, and makes great power, and great run time. Last weekend, I noticed some fuel seepage behind the flywheel, no problem I'll put a TKO in. Upon pulling the head off, this is what the piston looked like, and after further tear down the whole piston is like this, crank, sleve and rod show no markings or pitting. I contacted Acend/PR-RC, and went back and forth, I'm concerned about the realiablility now, they indicated that I may have left the motor out in the open and that could have caused it, no, not true. There latest responce is " they see no problem
running in this situation". To say the least I'm not happy with it, the motor still has good compression and pinch, does run for how long who knows. I thought atleast they'd send a repalcement piston and sleeve. What do you think? |
Just so everyone can see it is not an issue
Here you go Don..... Look through the ports on the sleeve and you will see it is just like yours.
http://c0456141.cdn.cloudfiles.racks...m/ebm21001.jpg If you would like a bigger pic go to the link below and click on the picture and you will see it real good! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Set-Full-Mod |
If you are reading this thread and own one of these or are thinking about it do not be alarmed as this is not an issue. The person who started the discussion is obviously mad just because Ascendancy will not give him a free psr kit. Let me assure you that if you have a actual problem with your engine Ascendancy WILL stand behind you!
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Wow
Lets blow this out of control guys, first Brian, I did not demand a replacement, second, if really didn't like Ac racing, I'd tear my new clutch out and toss it, remove them form my signature. I've never bashed the performance of the motor, its great, and when I first contacted Ac, PR I didn't get any type of reason or explanation for this. Its amazing the PM I got, just opinions, and if Jason would have told me that its a new material etc then thats fine, but Jason don't you remember telling me that you had your 3 motors apart and none of them look like this? This is why I thought this is an isolated insident.
Again I am not disappionted with the performance of the motor, and now that others have pointed out what it is, and the link (thanks Jason) this could have been resolved, but I had to go online to get the answer. |
Originally Posted by akiyama77
(Post 7926540)
Lets blow this out of control guys, first Brian, I did not demand a replacement, second, if really didn't like Ac racing, I'd tear my new clutch out and toss it, remove them form my signature. I've never bashed the performance of the motor, its great, and when I first contacted Ac, PR I didn't get any type of reason or explanation for this. Its amazing the PM I got, just opinions, and if Jason would have told me that its a new material etc then thats fine, but Jason don't you remember telling me that you had your 3 motors apart and none of them look like this? This is why I thought this is an isolated insident.
Again I am not disappionted with the performance of the motor, and now that others have pointed out what it is, and the link (thanks Jason) this could have been resolved, but I had to go online to get the answer. Hope all this info helped. Just dont be so quick next time to assume there is somthing wrong with a product just because it is different. Jason |
Originally Posted by janderson78
(Post 7926182)
First you should check your facts. It is not 70.00 for a carb. If you indeed need to replace the carb it is 34.99 one of the lowest prices on the maket here is a link! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ete-Carburetor
Also you should read or know more before you comment. We also offer an optional needle set if you would like it to tune more like a Nova style motor and again it is not 70.00 but 13.99 Here is the link for that if you need it. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...dle-Tuning-Set Thanks for you comments |
Well when you come into the thread and say stuff like that it seems to be directed to the engines the thread is about. I was just wanting to point out to you your price was off by 100%.
Also our carbs work flawlessly. The needles are just an option part like any other upgrade on your buggy. Yes it is a Go Based engine but you can get two for the price of one Nova or OS if you go with the +4 or the Speeds. So when you get 5-10 gallons out of your 400.00 engine I will be happy getting 10-20 total out of my two engines. It is all what you are happy with. It is the Ford Toyota debate of 20 years ago. Pay twice as much for the ford but get twice the life out of the Toyota or Honda |
Originally Posted by janderson78
(Post 7927138)
Well when you come into the thread and say stuff like that it seems to be directed to the engines the thread is about. I was just wanting to point out to you your price was off by 100%.
Also our carbs work flawlessly. The needles are just an option part like a y other upgrade on your buggy. Yes it is a Go Based engine but you can get two for the price of one Nova or OS if you go with the +4 or the Speeds. So when you get 5-10 gallons out of your 400.00 engine I will be happy geting 10-20 total ot of my two engines. It is all what you are happy with. Ot is the Ford Toyota debate of 20 years ago. Pay twice as much for the for but get twice the life out of the Toyota or Honda |
only tuning issues i've had are trying to tune with an old plug then going back with a new one. carbs are good, matter of fact i've used the go carbs on rebuilt novas and they ran great.
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Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC
(Post 7927101)
Well I wasn't personally attacking your motors but since you felt the need to correct me let me clarify, I was saying why buy a cheap mill such as these, gotech's, alphas for $200 and then have to put a quality carb on them http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lus-21-5-T21BF to make them run right, why in the world would you ever buy a replacement carb from the same manufacturer if the original didn't last but a couple gallons? I've seen this game before, the money is always saved by using cheaper materials, if the materials were on par of the other major manufacturers for less money there would be no rb, novarossi or o.s. Every few months or so some new motor from the same taiwan factory comes out with a different cooling head that everyone deems the latest and greatest budget racing mill. And it is always the same story, you have to tune this different then other mills, theres a different break in process, you have to rerod it at a gallon. I really don't care what people run or spend there money on but don't tell me I should read or know more before I comment, this is just another rebadged tawain motor and there's nothing more to know as they've been out for a while.
Now, I can't tell you that the "budget" engines use the most costly materials or the most expensive bearings. But I can tell you that the "budget" engines of today are far superior to the ones of only 3 or 4 years ago. I've run GO engines for almost 4 years. Yes, early generation GOs had carb problems, they were resolved in the following generation. Some had rod wear problems. My belief is too much pinch caused the rod wear during breakin. This has ALSO been resolved. While the Taiwanese engines may not be perfect, they ARE striving to be. Every revision has been to improve the performance and durability of the engines. I can't justify the cost of the of the "upper crust" engines. I'm tired of the "my dog is bigger than your dog" BS that you "euro snobs" are trying to spread on my rose garden. There may not be a new Sheriff in town (yet), but there's a lot of Deputies that keep getting more and more qualified. |
Do you really think that 3"x3" chunk of "high quality" alloy billet costs $150 more? NO! Do the engine bearings cost $150 more? NO! Does labor and markup (because of their NAME) cost $150 more? Perhaps. These products are cheap because the labor lives in shit-squalor...as long as you sleep well...there's not much of an argument. |
Originally Posted by motomatt
(Post 7927671)
I don't think anyone disputes the quality of the European made engines, but I'm getting really sick of those "upper crust" racers that tell me Taiwan made engines are junk. These engines need NOTHING modded, repaired, improved, or replaced to go fast and run well. Just how much more do you think high quality materials cost versus low quality ones for an RC engine? Do you really think that 3"x3" chunk of "high quality" alloy billet costs $150 more? NO! Do the engine bearings cost $150 more? NO! Does labor and markup (because of their NAME) cost $150 more? Perhaps.
Now, I can't tell you that the "budget" engines use the most costly materials or the most expensive bearings. But I can tell you that the "budget" engines of today are far superior to the ones of only 3 or 4 years ago. I've run GO engines for almost 4 years. Yes, early generation GOs had carb problems, they were resolved in the following generation. Some had rod wear problems. My belief is too much pinch caused the rod wear during breakin. This has ALSO been resolved. While the Taiwanese engines may not be perfect, they ARE striving to be. Every revision has been to improve the performance and durability of the engines. I can't justify the cost of the of the "upper crust" engines. I'm tired of the "my dog is bigger than your dog" BS that you "euro snobs" are trying to spread on my rose garden. There may not be a new Sheriff in town (yet), but there's a lot of Deputies that keep getting more and more qualified. |
I'm tired of the "my dog is bigger than your dog" BS that you "euro snobs" are trying to spread on my rose garden. |
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC
(Post 7927900)
Lots of great analogy's there with deputies and rose gardens and all, as far as justifying the cost of a quality mill I beleive a Nova p5 with a coupon at amain is $225 shipped. Like I said I don't care what people run but ur not gonna tell me they are the same quality, that's great that Go has done several different revisions to make the motor better but it's to bad it was on the consumers dime, as to the rod wear being resolved on the Go engines is that why they included a new spare rod when you purchase the motor :lol:? Geez I wish Nova or O.S. would give me free motor parts, oh wait there not needed. I'm done stating my point, I don't care who makes it but I do care how it runs and I've been racing long enough to know that I've never seen one of these motors go the distance. Good luck and happy racing...
Rex |
would the D5 be a good motor/pipe combo to run in a truggy, hows the break in on these things(is it like a werks-short and sweet/or like a nova slow and painful) and also hows the low to mid power and is any one running a P3 plug???
thanks for your response |
Originally Posted by 22Racer
(Post 7928211)
If you were at the J Concepts race Memorial day weekend a $200 Alpha cleaned up in buggy. That motor has been running flawless since March and has over 6 gallons on it now.
Rex |
Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC
(Post 7928288)
I was there and I'm assuming that was Kendall's? Was that the same motor I saw him run in Fort Dodge at the second round of the RC Pro North Division in his truggy?
Rex |
I fail to realize how anyone can bash this or any other product without owning it. If you don't care or feel the product is inferior why bother posting in a thread designed to support these engines?
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Originally Posted by liquidkool
(Post 7928261)
would the D5 be a good motor/pipe combo to run in a truggy, hows the break in on these things(is it like a werks-short and sweet/or like a nova slow and painful) and also hows the low to mid power and is any one running a P3 plug???
thanks for your response All this talk about needles didn't matter to me cause I tuned an hour at a time and never had any issues, maybe just lucky I don't know. But I agree that don't knock it till you try it and even then go buy something else the rest haven't had any problems. |
What glowplugs are you running in your D5's? Are OS P3 ok?
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Nesal
(Post 8067351)
What glowplugs are you running in your D5's? Are OS P3 ok?
Thanks! |
i now run a Z852, they come with a long needle AND a spare short one, the carbs are fine... its just people dont know how to use them properly
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hey guys,
i just bought this engine, still waiting by the mail box. anyway, what are your thoughts on running the D5 with JP1, JP4, OS2060 or ofna 086 pipes? i will be running it in a truggy. or maybe someone could recommend a better pipe for the engine. not really keen on buying another pipe, but if the benefit outweigh the cost then why not. Currently im running an OS28 in my truggy and its retarded fast but i can barely push 8mins. will be interesting to see how the D5 stack up. cheers, Moe |
Let me know how it goes with the JP4 as I have one laying around basically
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Does somebody have any new experience with the Go 2072 or 2047 pipes or some other pipes?
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Guys,
As with most engines all pipes will work well when tuned proper. The reason the 0801 seems to be the best combo with this engine is that offers both good torque and top end along with great milage. But if you get better results with another pipe please do post... I have tested an 086 and 2053 and the 0801 seemed to just give me the best all around engine. |
2035 with short header is butter smooth
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In the championship I drive I have to use a pipe with an EFRA-Code. Which of the EFRA pipes is the best one to choose. Seems that the 2081 is ok, is there an alternative?
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better in what way?
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Hey guys, just got the d5. broke it in with 20%
Do you guys shim the head for 30% or run it as it is? Thanks |
Originally Posted by nurchburgler
(Post 9728361)
Hey guys, just got the d5. broke it in with 20%
Do you guys shim the head for 30% or run it as it is? Thanks |
Originally Posted by Losimoe
(Post 8074185)
hey guys,
i just bought this engine, still waiting by the mail box. anyway, what are your thoughts on running the D5 with JP1, JP4, OS2060 or ofna 086 pipes? i will be running it in a truggy. or maybe someone could recommend a better pipe for the engine. not really keen on buying another pipe, but if the benefit outweigh the cost then why not. Currently im running an OS28 in my truggy and its retarded fast but i can barely push 8mins. will be interesting to see how the D5 stack up. cheers, Moe |
Originally Posted by stallen50
(Post 9729734)
Dynamite 053 or the 0801 are the pipes to get for this motor in my opinion. The 2013 pipe if you are looking for crazy power. Lol
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had my first race with the d5....I must say I am impressed. I have run go, o.s, werks, nova, and mugen motors and i think this motor is very competetive. Longevity will be something we see over time, however this engine produces great power and it is Easy to tune. I cant wait till her legs come out :sneaky:
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We ran this engine on 40% for several gallons without adding a shim. It ran very strong and with a 2035 pipe it was awesome with very good mileage.
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My friend has this engine and it is behaving very "on/off", not progressive throttle action. I tried to ask which pipe he was running but he said it was just a Precirotate pipe, which leads me to believe it is a 2088 PR pipe.
If you want more smoothness, more linear throttle curve, less on/off behaviour, would it be a good idea to try a different pipe, or is it a carb-issue? I was thinking it might behave better with an EFRA 2072 Go pipe? |
Originally Posted by Eivind E
(Post 10412649)
My friend has this engine and it is behaving very "on/off", not progressive throttle action. I tried to ask which pipe he was running but he said it was just a Precirotate pipe, which leads me to believe it is a 2088 PR pipe.
If you want more smoothness, more linear throttle curve, less on/off behaviour, would it be a good idea to try a different pipe, or is it a carb-issue? I was thinking it might behave better with an EFRA 2072 Go pipe? |
Originally Posted by akiyama77
(Post 7925001)
I have the 21C version, and this is just a heads up or FYI of what can happen, my motor has 1/2 gallon on it, and makes great power, and great run time. Last weekend, I noticed some fuel seepage behind the flywheel, no problem I'll put a TKO in. Upon pulling the head off, this is what the piston looked like, and after further tear down the whole piston is like this, crank, sleve and rod show no markings or pitting. I contacted Acend/PR-RC, and went back and forth, I'm concerned about the realiablility now, they indicated that I may have left the motor out in the open and that could have caused it, no, not true. There latest responce is " they see no problem
running in this situation". To say the least I'm not happy with it, the motor still has good compression and pinch, does run for how long who knows. I thought atleast they'd send a repalcement piston and sleeve. What do you think? |
Good day guys I am very interested in getting the D5 are they still selling these?
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