Clockwork Racing Engines and Products...
#2716
#2717
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
my b5 is about to hit puberty!
Idling like a champ. No need for extra shim
I also quit running the heat cycle method that is sticky at the top. Heat cycle yes, but at that pace? no. I have used that method on two motors and for me it's just not enough break in. The engine literally TELLS you when to lean and by how much.
I also think there is alot of bad info out there in regards to tunning. I can't count how many times i was told to tune the HSN first. This only works (to some degree) on the old O.S. carbs.
Keep it hot with the sock! Start down low till idle gap is set on the slightly rich side, then go HSN and lean down as needed
and i like to really take my time. It might take me a week to fully break in and have it reach full puberty
but i might only run 5 tanks a day. When i take my time, the needles really don't move that much at all from factory.
Just talking out loud here.
Idling like a champ. No need for extra shim

I also quit running the heat cycle method that is sticky at the top. Heat cycle yes, but at that pace? no. I have used that method on two motors and for me it's just not enough break in. The engine literally TELLS you when to lean and by how much.
I also think there is alot of bad info out there in regards to tunning. I can't count how many times i was told to tune the HSN first. This only works (to some degree) on the old O.S. carbs.
Keep it hot with the sock! Start down low till idle gap is set on the slightly rich side, then go HSN and lean down as needed

and i like to really take my time. It might take me a week to fully break in and have it reach full puberty

but i might only run 5 tanks a day. When i take my time, the needles really don't move that much at all from factory.
Just talking out loud here.
#2720
#2722
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,637
my b5 is about to hit puberty!
Idling like a champ. No need for extra shim
I also quit running the heat cycle method that is sticky at the top. Heat cycle yes, but at that pace? no. I have used that method on two motors and for me it's just not enough break in. The engine literally TELLS you when to lean and by how much.
Idling like a champ. No need for extra shim

I also quit running the heat cycle method that is sticky at the top. Heat cycle yes, but at that pace? no. I have used that method on two motors and for me it's just not enough break in. The engine literally TELLS you when to lean and by how much.
#2723
How much fuel have you run through it? My Clocked B5 never once flamed out on me and then at one race right about the 4-5 gallon mark it flamed 6 times in 2 heats. I had to run my back up engine for the race but I sent my B5 off for a pinch and some new bearings and now it's like better than new and no more flame outs.
Last edited by major3d; 04-25-2011 at 05:40 PM.
#2724
#2725
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
Besides, i AM doing HEAT cycling. But my own way. Actually i would advise everyone to do it the way they find the most comfortable or confident. That way at least you know your doing it right. There is many ways to skin a cat!
#2727
It has never flamed once, but another racer has the same motor (not moded) and his was flaming. I never had a chance to talk to him about his motor. I ran mine rich some and ran it not soo rich and it still ran fine. After every heat I was constantly leaning it. Temp never above 180 so it was not even close to race tune after a 20 min main. I could still lean some more. It ran not matter where it was tuned is why I am asking about tuning and flaming out. There must be an envelope that too rich or to lean but, in between those points it will stay running. I have tuned alot of airplane motors but, the race tune on these car motors is what I have to learn more about. The 2058 pipe is the the perfect pipe for the B-6 and the best part is the sound the 2058 makes.





Neal any special tips before I start break in?
