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Old 04-25-2011 | 12:21 PM
  #2716  
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Originally Posted by motomanpat
It's on the brown truck and on it's way to my houseNeal any special tips before I start break in?


Make sure to post pics if there's something a little unique about it. You might be in for a surprise.
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Old 04-25-2011 | 12:24 PM
  #2717  
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my b5 is about to hit puberty!


Idling like a champ. No need for extra shim


I also quit running the heat cycle method that is sticky at the top. Heat cycle yes, but at that pace? no. I have used that method on two motors and for me it's just not enough break in. The engine literally TELLS you when to lean and by how much.

I also think there is alot of bad info out there in regards to tunning. I can't count how many times i was told to tune the HSN first. This only works (to some degree) on the old O.S. carbs.

Keep it hot with the sock! Start down low till idle gap is set on the slightly rich side, then go HSN and lean down as needed

and i like to really take my time. It might take me a week to fully break in and have it reach full puberty

but i might only run 5 tanks a day. When i take my time, the needles really don't move that much at all from factory.

Just talking out loud here.
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Old 04-25-2011 | 12:33 PM
  #2718  
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I ordered a B5 pro today. Can't wait to get it. This thing is gonna rip.
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Old 04-25-2011 | 12:47 PM
  #2719  
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I hate all of you with the new style heads

I got my b5 in the batch right before the switch
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Old 04-25-2011 | 01:03 PM
  #2720  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
I hate all of you with the new style heads

I got my b5 in the batch right before the switch
Well the pro version has the black case and ceramic bearings as well. It's very sweet!
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Old 04-25-2011 | 01:11 PM
  #2721  
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Shut your whore mouth!

Now I hate you even more
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Old 04-25-2011 | 01:23 PM
  #2722  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
my b5 is about to hit puberty!


Idling like a champ. No need for extra shim


I also quit running the heat cycle method that is sticky at the top. Heat cycle yes, but at that pace? no. I have used that method on two motors and for me it's just not enough break in. The engine literally TELLS you when to lean and by how much.
Do you have evidence that the heat cycle method is "not enough break-in"?
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Old 04-25-2011 | 01:37 PM
  #2723  
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
How much fuel have you run through it? My Clocked B5 never once flamed out on me and then at one race right about the 4-5 gallon mark it flamed 6 times in 2 heats. I had to run my back up engine for the race but I sent my B5 off for a pinch and some new bearings and now it's like better than new and no more flame outs.
It has never flamed once, but another racer has the same motor (not moded) and his was flaming. I never had a chance to talk to him about his motor. I ran mine rich some and ran it not soo rich and it still ran fine. After every heat I was constantly leaning it. Temp never above 180 so it was not even close to race tune after a 20 min main. I could still lean some more. It ran not matter where it was tuned is why I am asking about tuning and flaming out. There must be an envelope that too rich or to lean but, in between those points it will stay running. I have tuned alot of airplane motors but, the race tune on these car motors is what I have to learn more about. The 2058 pipe is the the perfect pipe for the B-6 and the best part is the sound the 2058 makes.

Last edited by major3d; 04-25-2011 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 04-25-2011 | 01:52 PM
  #2724  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
Shut your whore mouth!

Now I hate you even more
Lol that's funny! Your a trip dreaux. Just go ahead and call Neal and order you another one. There only $350.00. I think I'm gonna set mine up on the shelf and just admire it. Just kidding I'm gonna run the piss out of it.
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Old 04-25-2011 | 02:20 PM
  #2725  
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Originally Posted by 071crazy
Do you have evidence that the heat cycle method is "not enough break-in"?
nope. Zero evidence.

Besides, i AM doing HEAT cycling. But my own way. Actually i would advise everyone to do it the way they find the most comfortable or confident. That way at least you know your doing it right. There is many ways to skin a cat!
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Old 04-25-2011 | 03:27 PM
  #2726  
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Love the new heads one of the reasons why it took me so long to buy this motor. Sweet
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Old 04-25-2011 | 04:07 PM
  #2727  
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Originally Posted by major3d
It has never flamed once, but another racer has the same motor (not moded) and his was flaming. I never had a chance to talk to him about his motor. I ran mine rich some and ran it not soo rich and it still ran fine. After every heat I was constantly leaning it. Temp never above 180 so it was not even close to race tune after a 20 min main. I could still lean some more. It ran not matter where it was tuned is why I am asking about tuning and flaming out. There must be an envelope that too rich or to lean but, in between those points it will stay running. I have tuned alot of airplane motors but, the race tune on these car motors is what I have to learn more about. The 2058 pipe is the the perfect pipe for the B-6 and the best part is the sound the 2058 makes.
You will find the sweet spot. Dont forget you can call Neal and he will help with tuning. I wont even attempt to help you tune via internet as thats just absurd. Have your buddy send his out for inspection. It may be ready for a pinch.
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Old 04-25-2011 | 05:22 PM
  #2728  
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Originally Posted by bigjayjay1
Love the new heads one of the reasons why it took me so long to buy this motor. Sweet
I agree the new head looks much better.
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Old 04-25-2011 | 05:49 PM
  #2729  
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Man, Tebo is just in his own little world lately
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Old 04-25-2011 | 05:52 PM
  #2730  
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
Man, Tebo is just in his own little world lately
Tebo is on fire....
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