I have both B6s as i bought the B6pro last year and have a good 9 gallons on it and all ive had done to it was replace bearings and had repinched.
What I did like to hear when a friend of mine drove my car. He was amazed how much power my B6pro had compaired to his OS and at a much lower price.
The B6 works ok with a 2013 pipe which I did use from other engine. But really comes alive with 2058.

Hope this helps

kevin m thanks alot it does help and u should come racing up in pa if you dont already im about an hour and a half from you

Got to do a little break in a couple weeks ago, coming up on the 1/2 gallon mark, looking forward to turning it lose this weekend and seeing what the B6 pro has in it. Going to a track I know well so it should be a good time!! Very easy engine to break in.

I just picked up a B6 with a Go EFRA 2072 pipe (all new), I know the Werks engines explode with power, I have a B7 Pro w/ an OS 2060 and the mill gets good run times and pulls strong. Im looking for some input on the 2072 pipe, wondering if I should consider another pipe set in its place, and perhaps a few suggestions on possibly a better pipe combo for my B7 Pro?
Thanks.

Ultimate pipe for the B6 is the Werks 2058, but the GO 2072 pipe will suit the B6 quite nicely.
The 2072 will give good all round power with strong bottom end through mid.
The 2072 also works a treat on the B2 - but once again the 2058 is the ultimate weapon for all round performance and run times.

Anyone know how the jp series of pipes will work i already run the 1,2,3 on my buggy but not on the werks yet. thanks for the input

grizz1, Thanks for the input, going to give the 2072 the first offering at the track next season, if Im not impressed then I'll swap it out to the 2058. We're winding down here in the North East with only a handful of weekends left to run.

thanks
 

Hello ron, guys , last weekend there were the nitro and e-buggy nats in my country. As I said before I am a nitro newbie. I am glad that I chose the B6pro and 2013 pipe.
This engine on my mbx7 and buku clutch let me drive like an e-buggy, what it was what I want, at the end because on me (not the engine) I only finished 6th on the C, my best lap 50.400s ( 49.500 with my e-buggy, best lap on nitro A was 47s).

After a full weekend of races the engine was totally flawless, and believe me I saw a lot of broken and overheated engines (high altitude and very muddy track, something to do?).

I will only have to change the front bearing because of a loose seal.

Lots of racers came to see my engine, most of them ran OS, RB and novas. so I believe we are going to start seeing more werks engines here.

jaime
Happy customer :)

btw what`s the best way to replace the front bearing do I need to buy a bearing puller ?

thanks in advance.

Best way is the hudy tool, or similar.

Ron- any plans for a lcg cooling head?

Hi thanks for reply , 90 bucks for a tool it is a lot of money, the cheapest one that I found it is around 50us, ohh nitro really needs more money.

I read that the p6 pro comes with a epoxy filled crankshaft, I don´t really understand what that means, anyway any special care with that , do I need to buy extra things?

A side question , in the local mid size outdoor, not so bumpy local truck. I got like 10+ minutes of runtime with the 2013 pipe, race temperatures of 220-230F after 30 minutes main. most of other racers engines got like 8 minutes , but there were A main racers that got 10-11 minutes also. It is normal than on high altitude (2600m) tracks engines got better runtime and also I wants to understand why . I ask because friends in other cities located at lower altitude with similar tracks report lower runtimes.

thanks in advance.

If your tight on money... Heat motor on a pan on the stove then tap out front bearing with a wooden dowel and hammer. This method sucks compared to the Hudy, but we have all done it

Only special care I involved with the filled crank I can think of- when using after run oil, make sure it's aprroved for filled cranks. I use GMK afterlife once in awhile on my B6 pro

Wanted to share my first hand racing experience with the B6 pro engine. I have 3 race weekends on the engine so far, so I don't count the first weekend as a "race" because it was breaking the engine in and shaking it down.

This past weekend I ran the engine in full on race mode, as it has about 2 gallons on it. After some valuable track testing on Friday, I was able to hit a setup that allowed me to achieve run times of approx. 10:40 per tank, and pitting at 10 minutes in the main event. At "my" level, which is regional pro class but not a "national" level, achieving 10 minutes is vital, as everyone else can do it as well. The engine still had enough power and tunability which was great. As with most engines, run time comes from a proper Low Speed Needle Setting and having the idle set correctly. Being able to tune the low end to where it doesn't lean bog, but has enough power and lubrication is what I was able to achieve.

The engine does not "hit" like the previous 3 port I ran, but the bottom end power is just as good. Clearing jumps and making acceleration passes is no problem. So far so good, and break in was very easy. Look forward to seeing what type of life span the engine will have, but very impressed and happy with it thus far.

Brandon I was helping Yall pit ya on the main event race you car looked great and the engine ran awesome. Good Job. I am just open racer but still trying to get anything close to 10 min.

Thanks for the help Kevin. Having an experienced guy like Robin pitting ya is also a confidence booster knowing you'll be called in at the right time, LOL.

At the next race, we can tune on it some if ya want. I have also learned that driving technique is huge for good fuel mileage, it took me forever to learn it, ha. I've watched some of the pros fingers on the driver stand, and you realize that a gradual pull of the throttle and not a snap pull is critical, therefor the LSN tune is important. Thanks again for the pit help.