blew my conrod bearing/bushing this weekend. I have 4.5 gallons on my b01.. im asking cause i want to know if thats normal? I've had other brands some new and some i got used that didnt have a problem and had more than 5 gallons on it. I just need to know if i should be replacing P/S/C ever 4 to 5 gallons.

Mine did the samething last week after 4 gallons...:weird:

I had RB's that.have done that before, its good to check the rods after a couple gallons, no matter what engine you use, the conrod takes a beating on break in. Its good to replace the conrod after break in.

trust me bro this isnt my first engine, but this is the only engine I have ever ran other then RB... I only posted so people know to replace the rod before the 4 gallon mark;)... but what really sucks was the crank pin was trashed too so I had to put a new crank in it... never had to do that before

Thats what im saying. I've had RB, novarossi,JP, etc. and ive never had someting like this happen. I know guys with $200 motors that cant tune go all year without problems. if i pay $300 plus for a motor i would like it to go the season with out this type of stuff.

if anyone want my motor i would sell it for $70. the parts i need on amain will run $160. im sure someone could use it. PM me if you want pics.

Wow, crank pin shot too! I have used about every engine out there, rarely something like that happens, I probably have had that happened to maybe half a dozen engines in my almost 20 years in RC, it really sucks when you have he wrist pin bushing do that, it takes out all sorts of sh*t, rod, piston, and ocassionally a case. If it can happen to an engine, its happened to me.

yeah man, that was a first for me...

thats a strange one??

i have been running the B01T for a few months now and the engine has seen about 3 gallons. I have opted to change the conrod as a precautionary measure, however note that there is zero wear on the crank and the engine still appears to have mechanical pinch.

Is the crank pin slightly discoloured?

I might be wrong but i would assume that for the crank pin to wear @ the 4 gallon mark then this might be attributed to excessive wear due to heat and a lack of lubricant normally caused by running to lean or fuel that has a very low oil content.

I have recently been testing a new fuel in the 25% flavour with a slightly higher oil content - performance wise I have not really noticed any change, however know that more oil will result in the components enjoying a longer life.

I sold my BO1 a few months back and know that the crank pin again looked like new @ the 1.5 gallon mark.

As a rule of thumb I have decided to change the conrod at the 2 gallon mark as the conrod undergoes the most stress through the first gallon + I think all manufacturers recommend changing the conrod @ the 2 gallon mark.

I had a Novarossi +4 a few year ago that i knew had been running a bit lean, the result was that the crank pin seemed to have excessive wear @ the 1.5 gallon mark, there also appeared to be a blue/purple colour around the pin which indicated that it needed more lubricant and lower temps.

I think these engines are excellent and offer one of the best blends of performance against durability and seem to be engineered with the best components.

Here's a couple of pics from a RB WS7 II Conrod that I got before it exploded, Truggy went upside down, full throttle, servo froze open. the crank pin was fine, put a new conrod in the engine, lasted for a few more gallons, think I had about 6 or 7 gallons on that engine.

when i ran these motors both lost the rear bearings... right around the 2 gallon mark.. one just fell apart and the other the balls broke in half... the b01 and .23 motor.. ended taking out the crank.. the piston and sleeve.. and block.. head button.. everything just exploded in the motor... had some good paper weights... motors look good ran very well but did not last like the other high end mills... was disappointed at the time but since have moved on with another company... good luck with the repairs since there are not alot of places to get parts anymore.. unless someone has stepped up to import the motors and parts..

not discolored, not lack of oil, not ran lean... the rod bushing went out, and when I was replacing it I measured the crank pin and it was way out of round so the new rod was loose on the crank..

Then i have to ask, what fuel do you run and can we see a pic of your glowplug.

I now have 6 gallons on my original engine... It is like new inside. No metal pinch and 11 mins of runtime on sidewinder fuel. Never an issue!

I too believe the issues above is due to excessive heat caused by lack of lube. Or premature race tune on an engine that is not broke in enough.

Rody makes an awesome product and is one of the best in quality and materials ever!

It's your rear bearing. The stock bearing is good for a max of 4 gallons. I thought I would check my engine before a long 45 min main and it had just a little slop and it felt a little rough, even to put some slop on the rod and crank. If I had run my engine as it was I probably would have broken something. I would recommend to anyone to at the very least get a ceramic rear bearing. Also a good warm up, there is nothing harder on a engine than flooring a cold engine. I got about 5 gallons on my TQ 501-T.

Realistic runtime while the engine is in it's prime is about 8 minutes stock, my engine is a little past it's peak and has lost some edge and bunt power so I was pitting about 9 so maybe 9:30 to 10:00 would be realistic now but again on an engine that is starting to lose compression, though still holds a good idle, I plan to put it away for a club engine until it doesn't hold an idle then on with a new piston and sleeve.

its RC, things happen. The inside of my motor. I'll replace the P/S/C and butt. I guess i'll replace the bearings since its open.

I am sorry, but you have been running the engine to lean. The color of your glowplug should not be that grey.

And if you use a fuel with low oilcontent, rod will go out :-(

maybe. i had smoke and i used werks fuel. it now color in it. the day this broke i was running temp from 200 to 240 max. i've never had this motor over 250 since i got it.

that engine was definitely run too lean...I can see marking from heavy detonation all over the head button........When you see pitting on the button that looks like it has been sand blasted its always from running too lean...If you were using Werk's fuel with a proper tune you would have a black carbon buildup on the button.... But I see no carbon buildup, just bare sand blasted aluminum finish............ Temperature really means nothing, an engine can be running quite cool and still be too lean and detonating....

Ad to that the B01 is a direct copy of the GRP tuned which liked to run cool...usually arround 200, so 240 seems quite hot for this engine.

Ya I see no oil residue unless your cleaned it. This engine likes to be run cool. On a 60 degree day I had temps around 180/190 on a hot day 205/210.

It might be cheapier to get a new engine by the time you replace the bearings/piston and sleeve.

I disagree, If you notice the brass bushing is completely gone, where did it go??? Up and out, beating the crap out of everything

the detonation on the head button doesn't lie....... the bushing came out from the engine being too lean.....The bushing and crankpin lost lubrication causing the bushing to stick onto the crankpin and spinning out of the rod....with a rod bushing out an engine wont even run, let alone run long enough to cause detonation marks on the button.......This is definitely a case of an engine being run too lean...detonated head button and a spun rod bushing....this one is as cut and dry as they get I am sorry to say...

Oh my bad, I didnt know you were there while he was running it. You assume thats what happened... What if the bushing came out piece by piece????? the engine would still run for a bit... The rod bushing in mine cracked and a small piece broke loose, what do you have to say about that???

learn how to tune maybe ?

the engine pictured has absolutely zero oil buildup on the head...if it was a proper tune then debris went thru it there would still be residue on the head....but because the head is bare and detonated it was lean...also if it was debris we would see much larger damage, the damage shown is 100% from detonation......detonation is from being too lean for the conditions...... I have worked with hundreds of engines over the years, i do not need to be there in person to see what caused the damage shown..........rob bushings letting go is almost always from being too lean....time to time we will see a faulty rod, but it would not explain the bare metal detonated head button sorry to say !

bwahahahahahahahah!!!!!! Im sure glad you play with toy car engines and not a Dr

Why, because he knows what he is talking about and what he wrote is correct??

Why do you people bother to ask if you can't accept the responses?
Neil (Maximo) has been modding engines for longer than most people have been racing nitro. If anyone has "seen it all" wouldn't it be a fellow that's been insides hundreds (if not thousands) of engines?


BTW

Did you notice Neil didn't use the term "pre-detonation"? That's because there is no such thing. Detonation is the result of a fuel charge burning too rapidly. Too lean a mixture, advanced combustion timing, low octane fuel (gas engines), compression too high. The fuel charge burns so fast that it literally explodes, rather than a rapid, progressive burn. The explosion creates a shock wave that can be heard. (that nifty, super fast rattle) This shock wave can pound the ROD BEARINGS out of an engine (even an automobile engine). I've seen the results my self in automobile engines, ATV engines, and by gosh, even two-stroke engines. I've seen detonation blow holes right through the dome of a piston. One final comment. Every engine I've seen with anything other than BRIEF detonation has at least some shock wave erosion evident in the combustion chamber, be it the head or the piston.

pre-IGNITION occurs in engines that use a spark to begin combustion.
If the spark plug tip gets too hot it can ignite the mixture even before it sparks, causing run-away heat build up melting pistons and rings.

You know, now your just plain ignorant. I called the engine lean beacuse of the glowplug color, and i know i am right after 15 years of running nitro engines, and i have been tuning them for quite some time with good results. I was also the importer of the Falcon enigines to Norway witch was the same as GRP engines so i have had quite a few between my hands.

The detonation can also come from to high compression, but the plug would look different, the filament of the plug would have been pushed in, so high compression is not the case here.

Maximo is an incredible tuner, with an awsome reputation!

Werks, well, that is Werks Racing who makes Werks engines and fuel.

I am 10000% sure, that if you buy a new engine, put on the old carb after running in, you would do exatly the same with your new engine.

If you got sick, theese doctors would probebly do more for you than alot of the doctors that is just idiots with my hart condition....

Anybody here running the new B03 in buggy and the T02 in truggy. Getting mine next week!! Can't wait to try them out! Full report and video coming soon:nod:

broke in my new bo1 this weekend. i was pretty worried about it because i wanted to have it ready to race for this weekend and it is such a tight motor. the last motor i had that was this tight took nearly 2 gallons before it would really run well. i am happy to say that even after only a half gallon, this thing rocks!! i currently have a 053 pipe on it but am planning to do some experimenting with pipes soon. i just knew that the track i am going to requires a lot of bottom end so that is what i started with. i can't wait to see what this thing can do after it drops it's nuts!!

A racer in my area put a B03 in his truggy. It seems to move the trug with authority.

Spent all day yesterday breaking in my B03 in buggy and T02 in truggy. Even though I still had the engines rich on the bottom and top both engines would just sit there and idle all day long:nod:

Power was good on both engines but being that I was still running on the rich side I haven't seen there true potential. Looking forward to my next race:sneaky:

Hey guys I have a New in Box TecnoPower .21 B01 Competition Buggy Engine

1ST $180.00 GETS IT --->Shipped

NEW IN BOX

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...gy-engine.html

Im ready to pull the trigger on a tecnopower engine i just need to know witch one between the BO1T ,BO2,BO2T,BO3 i just can get enough info on how each one is diffrent in how they run power wise.Its going in a d8 hara buggy.

B03 has the most power of them all. And its what I have been breaking in now for the past couple weeks. SO far its making really good smooth power and its producing 9 1/2 minutes of run time even though I still have it running rich!:eek: Mine has been tuning very easily so far.

I have heard that the B02T makes a little less power but is easier to tune so its really up to you. All of them are awesome engines:nod:

Im leaning to the BO3.Im looking along the lines of a ws7/ws9 with better low end and i believe thats how the BO3 is.I just wished it had the ibon coated crank pin.BTW SupermaxxRich what pipe are you runing.

The B02T is a 5 port.
The B03 is a 7 port.

note:
There are so many people that believe a 3 port is a bottom end only engine and a 7 port is a top end only engine. Engine design and port timing would have a larger effect on this than port count.

Quote from Rody:

Yes, correct the G5 engine has the same internals as the B01i and happy to hear you appreciate the smoothness of this engine, however for some it does not have enough power and so this is why we have developped a little more...
The B02 compared to the B01i has a new crankcase and also a new crankshaft with a more adapted timing, this engine gives better overall performances but still smooth.
The B03 however is a bigger step to even more overall power due to quite some internal changes.

The difference between the B02 and B03 is that you can have more fuelconsumption on both depending on how you drive..., however you will have more power at your disposal with the B02 already and so I think this is the better choice for you to start with. If after you want even more power then the B03 could be the weapon you want to have, however if you drive agressively and use the available power then you use also more fuel...

Hope this has helped you further.

Sincerely, Rody"

The G5 (B01i) felt a little soft for me in buggy. I could clear all the jumps, but I needed more throttle than everyone else. It is a great engine for people who like a really smooth power band though.

Thank you very much that was the info i was looking for 8ight-racer

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How are both engines bo3 and t02 in terms of performance and run time. Which pipe are u using?