Insane pipeset for Roma!!
 

Hello my nitro fam ! I was out messing around today with my Roma and I slapped on the Max Power 2164 pipe set on omg insaneeee !! The throttle response from any rpm was incredible , and power was just insane , it was like it was electric. I have ran sooo many combos on the Roma like 41032-Medium- Long, 41001,41031, 9886,Picco 2046 , Ielasi 2186, etc you get the picture and the 2164 kills it all and I mean lights out bad ass!!! It mayyyy trail behind the highest top end performing pipe by maybe 500-1000k rpm but it gets there faster than anything else by a long shot and the trigger feel is just :weird:. If you have a Roma you must give it and shot. What’s odd is I ran it on the new Nova G5r in the same rig on road and it was very soft low and mid but it came on mid-high like it was hit with a nitrous shot for a short time causing wheelies at 35+ mph . It’s amazing how one pipe will act with one engine and totally different in another . I love this stuff .

I had 2 Ielasi Hummer Off Road Engines and have to change to 16% EU fuel instead of 25% fuel.
Normally you take out 0,1 cm head shim and tune your engine new.

I tried this but one engine need 0,1 more (head gap 0,75mm) and other one need one less (head gap 0,65mm). Now is my question why is this so different ?

Engine where i remove on was running good but when it was hot and died there was no chance to restart it (temp. 135°C).

I do not like this 16% EU fuel :(

Are you only counting the shim stack?
Can be several reasons:
- different components (piston or head button) are used giving that tolerance.
- there is a sleeve shim with one?

I always check the clearance with a piece of solder by squeezing it between piston and head button.

The head gap where for both engines with 25% fuel with measured 0,65mm gap. I removed or put a 0,1mm head shim when i changed the gap.

Some courios thing was with the engine with died and i can not restart pumped no fuel in the line. Only when close exhaust he gets fuel for a moment. With one shim more it was no problem.

That is what i not understand because normally you remove 0,1mm shim and engine is running with 16% EU fuel.
The only difference was the carburator. One has a lying needle and one needle is standing but i cannot imagine that this makes the difference.

When i compare it with othe engines (Ielasi OS engines turn higher that my nova and they always was great with 25%.

Fuel is the same manufacture and i used the same fuel which the OS guys use.
Maybe it is the exhaust which the Ielasi OS guys use because they have some special pipe which is very thin towards the manifold.

🙏 🤞

I seen this when it was first posted on fb. Been wondering if it is legit or if someone hacked their fb page and is just messing with everyone. Hopefully it is true. Novarossi Marine also mentioned this.

Air in fuel line
 

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2004 Novaross NS15S5 brand new or at least sitting in a box for the last 20 years.

I'm getting air in the fuel line. So far I have tore both the carb and engine apart and inspected every piece. No cracks in the block. O-rings, head gasket and all the rest of the parts looks good. New manifold seal and muffler seal. New fuel lines have been installed. I have dipped the fuel tank, fuel lines, engine, muffler/manifold, and carb in water. Only thing that has air following through is the crank shaft bearing. Which shouldn't be a problem.

When I the engine stops I have noticed air following in from the banjo bolt back in the fuel line.

There was a little bit of surface rust on the crank and inner bearing. Was able to clean it up with some isopropyl alcohol.

You're saying that you see air bubbles at the banjo fitting WHEN the engine stops? That's normal, with the engine is not running, there's no vacuum pulling on the fuel, and the fuel is flowing back into the tank.

Be sure the tank is not screwed tight but a bit lose so it can wiggle on its mountings. That will damp vibrations that can cause bubbles in the fuel

Hello PeasantPants,

Is some part of Your Fuel Line touching something Hot? e.g. Manifold?

If so, You could try to re-route it.

Cheers.. :)

Novarossi Mito with a connecting rod with just one bushing.
 

Hello Everyone.

I bought a Novarossi Mito 35 WC some time ago and was prepping it for break-in, so I disassembled it to verify everything was OK.
However, it came with a connecting rod that has no model number, and no top bushing. I've never seen one like this in all my Novarossi engines.
I read somewhere that some of this engines (sold after Novarossi closed) were assembled with old stock parts bought from the factory when it closed.

The question is: Is it safe to use to use this rod as is, or should I replace it with a proper R4 or R7?

In the pictures, the said conrod, along with a R4 and a R7 for comparison.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9289967d37.jpg
Mito Rod

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...522cde23b1.jpg
Mito Rod Top

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...aab9c513b4.jpg
R4 top

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...02f3be1a16.jpg
R7 top

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...598dfa1d81.jpg
R4, mito, R7 front

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...24d543a00f.jpg
R4, mito, R7 back

I wouldn’t use it.

The rod w/o a top bushing is to my knowledge only used by JP engines and got R6 as model number. It needed to be used with a DLC coated piston pin but from own experience it works fine on a plain steel pin as well. If your pin is black coated then it is assembled as it was mentioned.

Thanks, Roelof.

Unfortunately, no DLC piston Wrist pin. Just a plain shiny silver steel one.

From your experience, is this conrod less durable than a standard 2-bushing one, or will it provoke more wear to the piston wrist pin?