Originally Posted by "Smiley" (Post 6878222)

OD99's are a good plug, Just a bit harder to find a good tune. I have been using the OD 100 in my Nova N21R 3 Port. Just ran a Club Race this past Saturday. Used the 9886 Pipe, Jammin Smooth Round Header, and OD 100 Plug. After a 5min Qual, I had over half a tank left. Timed a few tanks this past sunday, Ran out of fuel @ 11:11, 11:16, and 11:21. :D

Originally Posted by 3rici985 (Post 6878226)

I just recently picked up a p5xlt. I run a X2 Truggy and am looking for pipe and header combo's along with clutch spring advice. I have read all the pages and I haven't seen much about what springs to run.

I plan on running a 97T glow plug, and I have few JP pipes an header to choose from ie. JP1 and JP3 but i'm looking to buy the BEST header and pipe combo. I race a in California so i'm at sea level. The track I normally run at is medium in size with not a real long straight. I'm looking for proven combo's please no guessing. what do you guys suggest and why is important to me. This is my first Rossi and hope it is the first of many, I have heard alot of good thing, I hope the are all true.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Eric

Originally Posted by 3rici985 (Post 6878262)

I almost forgot I was reading in past pages about using the crank out of a 21-4. Does that work w/o any mods and what were the results?

Originally Posted by houston (Post 6878280)

price no option?

Originally Posted by merdith6 (Post 6878726)

If the track is medium sized, I would use a 9853ss with the short round header on the p5.

Originally Posted by merdith6 (Post 6879592)

What are the differences between the short round and square headers? I used the square one back in the day with the 9886pipe, but finally got a 9853 and loved it, but with the round header. Honestly I really don't know what the differences are between those two headers. I know they are both high speed headers right? Penny for ur thoughts.....

Originally Posted by OfnaJoe (Post 6881419)

what about a 41021 with a 9853 ? what would that combo be like on a PX5XL?

Originally Posted by houston (Post 6881523)

Lots of bottom to mid joe

All I can say is I have had about 20 people or more tell me thanks for recommending the 9853ss/41005 combo ;-)

Originally Posted by OfnaJoe (Post 6881978)

I would start with 1.0 springs and stock Mugen shoes, if you want more punch and the track can handle the power go to a 1.1 spring, and I have been using Dynamite Max Life shoes the past 2 gals and they still look and work like new so I might not use Mugen shoes anymore!

Originally Posted by PowerHouse (Post 6845925)

The FMS is a wicked piece but nothing alittle mod work on the P5 can't fix. The milage are pretty comparable on both engines but that will also depend on all the variables that go into the engines overall performance ie: pipe, tune, clutching, gearing, conditions, weight of vehicle, throttle discipline etc. For what you would pay for a stock FMS, you can have my full race ported version of the P5 which will run very strong, get over 10 minutes with the proper setup and will last into the 10+ gallon range if taken care of properly.

Originally Posted by bigjayjay1 (Post 6883472)

was wondering if a Crono RS5 a P5 platform whats the different and are they any good.

Originally Posted by r1harper (Post 6884227)

monty..did you see my question about the 41005 header? i have the Rb version..do you know if they are the same. :)

Originally Posted by porkchop (Post 6884717)

last year i ran a 08 plus 4 with 9901 40210 what ever header the team told me to run. the to me did not seem to have alot bottom just a lil mid and never lit on fire and took of.

what dose the plus4c do better and if i dont run that 9901 pipe what can i run i need some motor if i dont have more then i need i stand on the trigger and my millage gose out the door any help would be great.

also i found that the standered plug made more power any reason why?

is the p5 better then the plus 4c?

Originally Posted by houston (Post 6884739)

i dont find the 9901 pipe impressive in performance by any means charles .

call me and we can BS ;) not right now though ;)

Originally Posted by houston (Post 6755012)

ENGINE RUN IN

use a heat gun to heat to 200 before you start at each step

You will have to play with the needles a little bit and cover the head of your engine with a pit rag (or similar)

do 3 heat cycles within the first tank at 190-210 degrees (3-5 min. intervals),
at idle on stand? yes.

then run it around on the ground gently only slightly rich keeping the temp between 210-230 (monitoring temps frequently ) careful not to let the engine get into its powerband , do this for about 1 full tank at a time but do not let it run out of fuel .do this for 3 tanks (cooling in between tanks), quarter throttle or so with short blips of more (full) throttle ..

not fast? slow pulls on the throttle in 30-40ft bursts .

then richen the needles a bit and run it about 190-210 on the track for 3 straight tanks monitoring temps frequently(every 2 laps) for the first couple of minutes until the engine runs at a consistent temp and feel.(start to lean out slowly)when you get it tuned in to where its not totally screaming but you have enough power to make the jumps with a slight bog at full throttle and runs at about 210-230, let it cool

(check the plug at this point),

what am I looking for exactly on the plug ? make sure the plug still glows and looks new, if it looks all distorted pull it out as you dont want a plug filament to go through the engine

go out and run the rest of the gallon til the engine richens up dramatically on its own and the temp drops instantly (i call it "dropping its nuts"). this process sometimes takes more than a full gallon .hope this helps ya , pretty detailed

I have had great success with this method and longevity , monty
www.houstonsengineservice.com

Originally Posted by zixxer (Post 6888353)

Just speaking from what I've seen houston post. He means 3 times during the first tank get the mtr running at the temps he said idle for a bit. Then cut he mtr off cool down to ambient temp. 5-7 minutes of idle time. That's what I do anyways. Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by Stirex (Post 6890018)

So picked up a 21-4C, so far real nice sounding motor. Quick question, after break in I flushed the motor, but the carb doesn't seem to want to re-seat. It sits on the O-ring around the carb throat. I seem to remember when I moved it earlier it wasn't sitting on the O-Ring. So question is... O-Ring out or should it be down the throat a bit?