I have a brand new 9863 pipe and header we ran on WS7 years ago.

try the 9901 pipe with that engine. Should give more power. And if u still need more, use a larger venturi. Do all these before messing with shims.

hello sir. I saw this engine for sale. Looks like it would be great engine for small tracks with good fuel consumption for buggy. I havent seen posts of anyone trying it yet. I would love to try it in the future

[QUOTE = DXPinoyRC; 15391135] olá senhor. Eu vi este motor à venda. Parece que seria ótimo motor para pequenas pistas com bom consumo de combustível para buggy. Ainda não vi posts de ninguém tentando isso ainda. Eu gostaria de tentar no futuro [/ QUOTE]


Yes, it is true, nobody has said here that they are using this BX3.
I think it's because of the Short-Stroke.
This engine is now for sale in the Novarossi World Online Shop 100 €.

If its a square stroke 3 port with 13mm crank its probably pretty close to the b03 limited i got from absolute a few years ago the came with a terrible pipe. It would be alright for a short track but has very little top end and really doesnt pull any more after 80 or so feet. I tried to mod it and change to a turbo button but didnt properly check clearance and she only lasted about half tank after that before locking up at wot. Somewhere in this thread should be pictures of it.

The BX3 is a short stroke 3-port engine with a 13mm crank. It’s basically a 3-port version of the old BX21 series which came in 3, 5, & 7 port versions with and without the boost chamber.

I have my flame suit on, no pun intended here. Opening the floodgates of fuel.

What are we running in terms of fuel on the .21 off road engines?

Changing the screws
 

If you must
https://www.tonysscrews.com/product.sc?productId=209

Hello, I have a little doubt.
The Novarossi Elite 5 OFF is a good engine to do only club races with friends at the weekend.
In terms of low, medium and high range is good engine?
In general terms the difference and a lot in relation to your older brother P5XLT, power and fuel consumption?

The Elite 5 is a very very good engine. I have raced it here and palced it top 5 at our Norwegian cup. That is slightly modified tough. I have sold 10 of theese engines and evryone is very satisfied with this engine, modified or stock. Get the 41001 or 41005 header and the 2096 pipe. Maybe the new Hipexmade pipe is better, but i have not tested it. 41001/05 and 2096 is a well provencombo on this engine.

In terms of price even here in Portugal is a very low price.
And because a lot of people like the engine and say it's good, I always like to hear other opinions, but from what I see it's a good buy.
And a safe bet.
Only Engine costs € 140

Would the Mantra be a good choice for a 1/8 truggy?

I know some guys have tested the OS pies with it because its a square stroke engine, and the performance was not there. I personally have run and tested the 2135 with the 41021 header and its a great combo. Same with the 9901/41021

I think people should read the Novarossi manual more carefully - not only about the break-in process, but also the fuel composition they recommend. If you run an oilier fuel for break-in, there is no issue in running the needle a little leaner (low speed) to get enough heat built up.

http://www.novarossi.it/2012/images/...uk-general.pdf

novarossi manual? lol the one page of broken english?
nova breaks motors in running them 32000-36000 rpm for 20-22 minutes at temp, not my first choice but its certainly a looooong way from idling.
The tessmann method IMO is the best way to break in, I have yet to try ebis/oil bath motors but ive tried just about every other and it seems they all sacrifice longevity to get the motor ready to race sooner. cant say ive ever idled more than a tank on the box though

The pipe you got is a good pipe. I run the 9853 which is the same as your 053 pipe. The key to engine power lies more in the header than in the pipe. The pipe makes a difference but not as much in my opinion as the header. I suggest that you purchase the Nova Rossi 41031 conical header 41031 . This will provide all the power you will ever want across the entire power band at the expense of using a bit more fuel.

You need to get the engine hotter. A cold break-in is not a good thing. 200+ is where it needs to be and this can be achieved by leaning (turn clockwise) the low speed needle. Getting the temp right is important.

Lee

The manual page in my link seems pretty straight forward to me. A far cry from 32,000rpm too. At no point do they say to idle for any period. They say to run an oily fuel. And run the engine slow in the car at first and gradually lean it out and increase rpm. That’s about as straightforward as it gets. These engines don’t need to be babied for 2 gallons. Run 2-3 tanks with oily fuel and at operating temp, and go race. Forget the EBIS, forget the idling on the box. Run the damn thing for crying out loud. It’s not a china doll!

No matter what you ask you'll get a ton of different views and methods I suggest reading the braking Bible on the from page . You can also watch the video of Adam Drake done by Jason at shortcourseworld. And the tessmann videos are long, I haven't watched the entire thing .But with it being that cold outside, you should have some foil or something to keep the engine warmer. 200° F is a good rule of thumb to break it in at .

Nearly all of those bandwagon methods involves idling the engine for a tank or three. If you don’t care about how long the engine lasts, then it doesn’t matter what you do. Have your cat break your engine in then. If you care about how long the engine lasts and want the best performance from it, follow what the manufacturer recommends. Novarossi has been making model engines for a long ass time. They know a thing or two...

But hey, they’re your engines.

You think? Those factory break-in manuals are that carefull that they always do the job but you will never know if they are the best for the best results and lifespan.
All 1001 break in methodes do work but if you want the best then you should know all factors like which materials, the tightness of the pinch and the depth og the surface roughness to setup a plan how to deal with it. And even then it is the question if it is the best. Due tolerances no 2 engines are the same and so no break in and its results are the same.

There is a video that RCDriver put together at the Novarossi factory with the guy from Novarossi direct

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PSS1Z7wtVmQ&t=1s

I’m glad that video was posted. Thank you for that. What they do in their engine room is actually the best thing for an ABC engine for break-in. Of course car guys tend to be paranoid and would never think of using such a process, but it’s been done that way on airplanes since day 1.

What the manual from Novarossi outlines is the safe way that anyone can follow and get to work. Certainly a far cry from what I call the “bandwagon” methods though.

So in a way, I stand corrected to a point. In another way, they’re doing what I’ve been flamed for in the past. Keep it rich, keep it warm, and run the damn thing.

Oh, and Allen at PlanetHobby is a swell guy. Customer service is 1000% better than Nova Direct.

Before people start to copy that High RPM break in proces, let me remind you that airplaines are used to run on 15 to 20% lubrication and you will never know the lubrication of the fuel used in that vid but I doubt it is a car fuel with arround 10% oil.

Yep. 20-25% oil is what I use to break in my airplane engines and I would use no less than 15% oil in a car engine. I break my car engines in on 14% oil in the car for the first quart and drop 1% oil per quart until I’m at 11% oil.

What are we using for throttle return? Spring, the silicone o rings? hair tie?

Hair tie

Not sure about the history of EB Mods Kinetic engine since im just getting back into the hobby but thought i would post this here since its a NOVA engine with 8-ports. Ed's got them listed on EBAY right now for 149.99 shipped which is a great price. Figured someone might be looking for NOVA without paying over 200. I would get one but just bought 2 new engines before i saw it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinetic-R-C...e/332245680956

[QUOTE = Jomo918; 15405212] Não tenho certeza sobre a história do mecanismo Kinetic do EB Mods, já que estou voltando para o hobby, mas pensei em postar isso aqui, já que é um mecanismo NOVA com 8 portas. Ed tem-los listados no EBAY agora para 149,99 enviados, que é um ótimo preço. Imaginei que alguém poderia estar procurando NOVA sem pagar mais de 200. Eu compraria um, mas acabei de comprar dois novos motores antes de vê-lo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinetic-RC-GR8-21-EB-Spec-Novarossi-Engine/332245680956 [/ CITAÇÕES]



I think there is a topic of this engine here in the forum.

What differences does the two Novarossi?
51006M EFRA 9901 and 51006 EFRA 9901?

Nvrmnd

Any reviews about this engine here?

Is it any good?

https://www.absolutehobbyz.com/Novarossi-Paloma-21-Off-Road-7-Port-Engine-Extra-Long-Stroke-Steel-Bearings_p_516868.html

I have this engine and I love it! tunes very easy, holds the tune well throughout the day. I have about 1/2 a gallon currently, no issues.

you were having issues with the Expensive REDS you bought saying it had too much power, it hadnt even broken in and loosened up yet, and you struggled to even get it to start.. apparently the "shocks" couldnt handle it and it squated down. are you running on the road? so many things to stop it squating
you're going to have this same power issue with the paloma and even deal with an even tighter engine over the reds.

My advise is get it EBIS broken in by adam drake or someone else.