I have run one, I need a little more time to let you how it runs. It has pretty good torque.

I am going to pick one up next month for my 8ight-t

Is cheap n I'm saving to buy 1 but i need feedback

Next month? Must be nice, might be snowing here next month. Haha

Anyway, I will prob get one in spring. What pipe and header you going to use?

Ah....

I've ran mines 1 race. It's has good punch off the Bottom for a buggy. Smooth middle and decent top. I still have room to lean out the top too. Good engine. I usually run os speeds and while it doesn't feel as powerful. It has enough to do what I need it to do. It's been reliable to boot. But it's only been 1 race and the breakin.

I ran one at our nats this weekend. Enigne is very nice. Smooth, good torque and consumption is good, pitting at 10:20 same as the OS guys. I could still have leaned it out slightly according to my glowplug. Top end is just a hair slower than the fastest OS speeds and on par with the Reds 7`s with better consumptions as they barly made 9 in the finale.
We ran on a farly large track. I ran it in a MP9 with kyosho carbon clutch and 2096 pipe and the 41001 header. Using the 41021 header will make it even smoother and the consumption slightly better, but will suffer on top end.
My engines was not modified in any way!

One bad penultimate,lap loosing 4 seconds after rolling ot behind a marshall blockig my wiew so i lost my line. Made me into hero lap mode and reeling in 5th place fast! Was driving at my limit and rolled it in the third last corner 10 feet behind 5th place. Evrything was just a hit and miss all weekend :-( Car was awsome and so was the engine, just not any bit if luck at all. A weekend to forget.


All in all i say its a nice enigne and i would recomend it :-)

Hey guys. Just getting back into racing and have a couple of questions about the P5xlt.

I have about 2.5 gallons through the engine and I'm gonna pull it apart ,check the crank and rear bearing and go ahead and throw a new con rod in it. It set for 1.5 years so it needs to be looked at.

What are the measurements for a worn crank? If the crank is too worn I'll just run it into the ground instead of putting parts into it. I ran it too rich for a while and it seems to have more wear than it should.

I will probably replace it with the new protek Euro pre-run because I hate break in.

Also my setup is a 41001/9886 SS in a truggy

Anyone have experience with the VIR-TUS , how does it compare with the Bonito?

This weekend at racing my engine seemed to have some extra drive into the corners as like in it's revs were still up and does not return properly. The linkage is all good. Typically my engines don't return to idle fast much after letting off the throttle and my idle screw is a little bit more in for the opening of the slide carb. I need to learn more this tuning.


But this weekend it was different with the cooler weather and after making some adjustments for more rich not sure it is leaning out perhaps an exhaust silicone gasket leaks at the header to engine or header to pipe muffler part.


Does this condition suggest a lean condition or sucking in of air somewhere on the motor/exhaust? Should I just switch to Nova Pipes?


I have Top Elite 8 with Jammin JP-2 hard anodized pipe set.

the hsn is too lean or idle gap is too big

I have found that usually when my idle is hanging it is because my lsn is too rich and my idle gap is to large. This causes the idle to hang until the rich lsn loads the engine up. I would try reducing your idle gap until the idle falls nicely and then lean the lsn. However, as mentioned above your lsn could be lean too... a properly set lsn should load up some if you let it idle for 20 seconds or so, so the engine will bog a little before it clears out with plenty of smoke. Hope this helps you.

This is how I'm doing it:


Performance Tuning Guide
There are many ways to tune a nitro engine but I figure this is the simplest way to do it. This technique is for a fully broken in engine that is ready for a full performance tune. This tuning procedure will set your needles to where they need to be for optimum performance, the engine will tell you all you need to know.
For this method to work the engine has to be at running temperature (or as close to it as possible) as well as having the standard 1mm gap for the carburetor opening.
High Speed Needle
Pull a full throttle pass a couple of times and listen to what the engine does when you let off the throttle. If the it drops right to idle, the HSN is either good or on the rich side. At this point you can lean the HSN in 1/12 turn increments until the idle seems to hang a little after a full throttle pass. If it starts to idle high after a pass it is just on the lean side of a perfect tune. Back the HSN out 1/12 turn at a time after a wot pass until the engine drops right to idle after a pass. Now your HSN is set.
An explanation to what is happening is simple - if your HSN is too lean, after a full throttle pass when you let off the throttle the engine is still lean causing the idle to hang and idle high until the LSN has a chance to take over and meter the right amount of fuel to bring the idle down to normal running speed (given the LSN is set correctly).
If the opposite happens, after a full throttle pass when you let off the throttle it drops to a good idle right away and then starts to idle back up too high, this is a sign that the LSN is too lean. If it comes off full throttle with a good tune and will drop RPM nicely then the HSN is metering the fuel properly but once it hits idle the LSN being too lean will quickly take over causing the RPM to go back up.
Low Speed Needle
Most of this setting was explained above but there are a few little tricks you can use to make sure the LSN is adjusted perfectly. We all know that you don't tune for temperatures, but a temperature gun is very handy for this part. After some full throttle passes with the engine good and warm, bring it in and let it sit for about 10 seconds. At this point take your temperature gauge and hold it as steady as possible on the head, what you want to see is the temp dropping a degree every 4-5 seconds. You want the temp to drop very slightly at idle because when your off throttle the engine should be cooling, if not, the temps will keep pushing higher during on and off throttle running and will cause temperature issues.
This is how I do it and I have tuned a lot of engines for people, whether bashing or racing. I have seen across the board from beginners to veterans that when they hear the high idle after a pull, the first thing they go for is the LSN when in fact it is the HSN causing the issue. If you have any questions feel to contact me at [email protected]

Looking for the right hot plug for nov-28-8. I'm seeing a couple of choices just wanting to get the right One.

I use a C6TGC in all of my Novas

+1 on C6TGC

+2.. C6TGC works perfectly in my 28-8RT.

Just bolted my Mantra in my buggy....got a bottle through it today on the bench....can't wait to see what she does!!! Brappp!

Hey how's it going. I asked this question in rb I'm pretty sure the rod in engine is a nova rod. Has the 3 stripe mark on it.
Hey how's it going guys, I have a rb bxr sls3 engine. I just cracked the top cooling head fan off and I took apart the engine to check the internals also. It looks like I need a new rod also. It has a lot of play in it and I don't wanna blow it up haha. Anyway does anyone know where I can get rb engine parts for this engine. Searched a little but I'm still at track now. I'm trying to see if it's worth replacing the parts or just start using another engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Maybe send am Email to Novarossi World.
I think being the best option.

Thanks, I'll give it a try.
I think the rod is actually a rb 10 rod. Has a 10 on it. Anyone here know if any nova rods work fine? Going to email nova, but if anyone knows much help is appreciated!

Virtus .21
 

Hello. I have a new virtus .21virtus that I am planning to breakin but I was wondering if you can recommend me a tune pipe that provides good low botton but also good run timw.

9901 with 41001 header, the header is just as, if not more important than than the pipe.

if your not racing at sanctioned events then get the 9853 and hang on :sneaky:

Anyone ever had the low speed needle move/turn or change setting while driving their car?Can this happen due to vibration?

Can any one telle why they got rid off the bloody 3port engine

Bloody is 4 Port Enigne.
Loco is 3 Port Engine.

No it continues the sale at the Novarossi Store
The price difference is 10€.

I had this happen on a Mach 427 engine some years ago - but it was the main needle that was moving on its own. The o-rings had shrunk and hardened with time. New o-rings cured the trouble. I wouldn't doubt the same could happen to the idle mixture needle. Worth looking into IMO.

yup

orings dry out

Mito 7 is a great buggy engine, just a bit thirsty on juice. Anyone has mito 4 (both) can give their opinions?

NOVAROSSI MANTRA - INSIDE
One thing I had already noticed, the Mantra does not share the block and the carburetor as from MITO 4.

It could be square, but have the same block and carburetor from MITO 4.

Novarossi Mantra: Inside - ModellismoRC.net

NOVAROSSI MANTRA - INSIDE
One thing I had already noticed, the Mantra does not share the block and the carburetor as from MITO 4.

It could be square, but have the same block and carburetor from MITO 4.

Novarossi Mantra: Inside - ModellismoRC.net

Tame a P5XLT
 

What do you guys do to tame your P5xlt motors?

Over half a gallon through this engine so not yet fully run in. With a 2096 SS pipe this thing is insane 😂😂 Low & mid range is mental plus decent top end with lots of smoke still. Using the 7.5 venturi, 1.1 springs I think.

Any tips to make smoooother? I want to start practicing !

What manifold are you using, the 2096/41021 is pretty smooth to me.

Get rid of the 1.1mm springs for starters ....lol

That too lol, I use 2 .9's and 2 1.0's with all aluminum shoes.

Using the 2096/41029 combo... will try smaller clutch springs ;)

I'd also be using 6.5mm venturi and the 9901/41021 pipe/manifold on that engine in a buggy.

Thanks Dan, I'll order the 9901 pipe this weekend. Heard it's smoother with better run times. My current setup absolutely rips ☺

Why would you order a pipe that will add more bottom and lose top? The 2096 is the right pipe. Maybe Monty can add some info. I have a 9886 on mine but it is a older pipe with a square header.

41033 manifold, if need to tame it again, use steel flywheel but cheapest solution is change softer spring or carbon shoes

I recently got a Virtus .21 offroad engine and today I finished the first part of the break in, but before I take it to the track can anyone recomend me a pipe and header for this engine.
My local track is a medium/small track and it is a fast track so run time is key to success.
Also if I am not mistaken it is also advise to remove one of head shims once break in is done.
Thanks for all the help.