Awesome, cheers for that houston.

Raced the btt yesterday for the first time, ran flawless for 5 rounds other than a little air leak on the manifold gasket, no flame outs, droped its nuts at the start of the first race. The track was very loose and dusty, was amazed how controlable and progressive the power was. We only had 5min heats with a 5min warmup, no amain (sprint series), pulling that off with only tank and still 3odd mm of fuel still in the tank, looking lke a good 10min + run time. Stoked with this new motor.

looking for some suggestions to smooth the powerband on my 21+4, the engine has great all around power, but seems to be a terror in the midrange, running a 053 pipe and long manifold for the mbx 6, 6.5 restrictor, temps at 220, getting 10 min per tank, really dont want to lean this engine out much more since it already is a handfull, I have tried adding expo to my throttle and tuned the servo speed down, it helped a little but am really struggling on tight tracks, would a 9901 pipe help? any other choices?

9901 with short manifold...

pipe is more for truggy but you can tame it down with the clutch , try two aluminum shoes with 1.0mm springs and 1 carbon/plastic with .9mm orrrrrr give the werks clutch a try , its great and last a good long while


but yes the 9901ss/41021 pipe/header will be wayyyyyyy smoother than what you got going on now ;)

Hello novarossi racers!

I guess im a newer guy with nitrotec losi/novarossi motor. I just acquired this motor today and i have a few questions. It is brand new!

-can it be ran in a 1/8 buggy with 30% fuel?
-what is the best low end pipe? mid range?
-easy to tune?
-how long does break in take and what do i need to do. (i am new to nitro, this is my first engine)
-is this a good beginner engine?

RE 12 and Werks 2058 pipes
 

Hi all,
Care to share with me some feedbacks with regards to both of the pipes. Ive tested both pipes on a Plus 4C. The 2058 seems to awesome. A lot of grunt on the bottom end. Top end power was awesome too. The Losi RE12 which is known to be similar to the 9901 seems to hv a slightly less power on both the bottom and top end power. But power transition from the mid to top range is smoother. Im using 30% maxima fuel and C6tgc plugs. Anyone who had tried both the pipes care to share wirh me if their opinions are the same? Or perhaps the needles are not tweaked properly. Thanks

What engine did you get?

I am new to nitro and just baught a Novarossi Plus4 BTT to ru n in my buggy, I asked that very question in a earlier post about 30% fuel and for my motor was yes.
I run the 9901ss/41021 pipe/manifold very smooth power delivery with this combo.
One of the best things I noticed about my new nova was how easy it was to tune.
All you info for breakin came be found here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...eak-bible.html
As I mentioned before the ease of tuning is a very good for a beginner in nitro, proberly the only down side is getting use to the gobs of power the engines make, but that is a good thing.

I got a new BTTS with less than 2 gallons of fuel through it. The rust was not present when she was new. Opened her up yesterday and saw some rust on the crank shalf :(

I had her for 2 weeks, ran her everyday and rust is still present. I do not put in after run oil after my runs. Anyone care to comment on the rust came about? There goes more $$$ :(

thanks for all your forth coming responses.

the rust i believe comes from fuel that is left in the engine. the nitro draws water into the engine as it evaporates. its a good idea to burn all fuel in the engines after running for the day and add after run oil.

I have one with 5 gallons on it and love it! I have a Ninja and it is dusty because my R21 is smoother/longer runtime 13 min./ holds a tune/ and has decent power with RE10 and alum. flywheel. It is a pretty good beginner engine but care needs to be taken during break-in I used the heat cycle method for two quarts but metal pinch didn't go away until 1 1/2 gallon and just got better over time. Yes 30% and running in buggy is fine but I would use something with a little castor oil during break-in like Bryons 11% and the Losi RE10 works great with Nitrotec with 7mm venturi but any of the Losi pipes work well. If you break it in right it will last forever! Good Luck!

thanks all! re11 or re10 pipe? with the r21

Ok
 

Take it easy.
It's really difficult to prevent rust on the crank and bearings I've noticed.

It's not a deal breaker to have a little bit of surface rust on the crank though. I usually remove the crank and give it a good buffing with a wire dremel wheel. it works quickly. Stay away from the crank pin though.

While I have the crank out of the engine I like to spray denatured alcohol inside the case and reinstall the crank and spin it and then remove it and blast out the inside with air...then repeat...When all the parts are cleaned then oil everything liberally and put it back together. making sure to drop a little oil in that front bearing from the inside..it should be fine...

Make sure and put oil inside the engine after every race day. It takes more oil than you think to coat the crank.

At the end of EVERY raceday drive into the pit...:rolleyes:
At idle remove the fuelline from the carburator and wait until the engine stops.
Try to start the engine severel times with the glowdriver on the plug until you can't hear any ignitions.
Many guys then remove the airfilter and add some afterrun oil in the carb. I don't.. ;):
Get yourself a 5 ml disposable syringe and put a piece of fuelline on it. Put AFO in the syringe.
Now, open the throttle and pres ½ ml AFO through the nozzle.
Press car down to the startbox and turn the engine for approx. 5 sec. with both WOT and closed throttle.
Like before add ½ ml AFO and turn the engine once more.
You now have a fully protected engine against rust and accid.

Benefits for adding AFO through the nozzle: You don't have the risk of getting dirt in the carb compared to through the venturi.
You'll get the job done very fast and don't have to reasample the filter.

Cons: If you use a thick AFO you from time to time has to turn the HSN ½ out before next start. The thick oil reduses the flow through the carb, that gives a lean setting for the first coupple of minutes. After that you just have to turn the needle back and finetune the HSN for the right tune.

Thanks Houston..havent try the c5tgc plug yet.Will oder some:nod:

Used to get rust on bearings and crank before I STOPPED running the fuel/oil out of the engine ;)

Routine now is to dump excess fuel out of tank and let engine cool naturally, no aro !

Using byrons gen 2 fuels , pro driver or race 3000 have PLENTY of oil left in the crankcase and NO RUST :nod:

If you do prefer to run fuel out and use aro I recommend rbmods aro and plenty of it ;)