63LikesThe New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
12-15-2011 | 11:24 AM
#7846
2011 force series sportsman truggy winner. B5 motor awsome, awsome , what else can i say. thanks to ron for supporting our series and for giving the winners of the sportsman truggy and buggy sponsorships support. ive only been racing for 2yrs come the first of this yr. and ive only ran one other motor since i started racing, and let me tell you that these motors are awsome, awsome power, smooth and are very easy to tune. once i learned how to tune a motor it made all the diffrence in my raceing. i won a sponsorship this year from werks and i just want to thank ron for that, so thank you! P.S. MY WIFE IS MY PIT GIRL AND SHE LIKES THAT I DONT HAVE FLAMEOUTS AND TUNEING PROBLEMS AND THAT MAKES THIS HOBBIE ALOT OF FUN FOR US. 
Shot at 2011-12-15
Shot at 2011-12-15
12-17-2011 | 08:12 PM
#7848
Werks B5 and Tower.
Ok I purchased my Werks B5 and 2013 Pipe from Tower Hobbies about 2 weeks ago, I got my Mugen Truggy together and begin the break in process, the engine was behaving nothing like the instructions posted here, but by the fifth or 6th tank I began to work toward the HSN tuning portion, The high speed needle would not move more than 4 hours, so I took my Truggy into my LHS were these guys are heavy into Nitro, the owner looked at it and said this motor has a bad o-ring, non the less I was a bit irritated as this is supposed to be a brand new engine and the first one I ever purchased, so the owner pulled the HS needle out and it has 2 o-rings, one red and one black, the black one was busted up and he said normally engines only have one o-ring and that was the issue with the HSN not budging much, my question is does the werks b5 supposed to have 2 o-rings, one black and one red or was this possibly a returned motor, lastly should I be returning this engine to Tower Hobbies?
12-17-2011 | 08:43 PM
#7849
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,555
From: south carolina
12-17-2011 | 08:45 PM
#7850
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,555
From: south carolina
use some green slime when you put the needle back in.....available at your LHS........
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...am-Green-Slime
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...am-Green-Slime
12-17-2011 | 08:47 PM
#7851
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,555
From: south carolina
12-17-2011 | 10:44 PM
#7852
Ok I purchased my Werks B5 and 2013 Pipe from Tower Hobbies about 2 weeks ago, I got my Mugen Truggy together and begin the break in process, the engine was behaving nothing like the instructions posted here, but by the fifth or 6th tank I began to work toward the HSN tuning portion, The high speed needle would not move more than 4 hours, so I took my Truggy into my LHS were these guys are heavy into Nitro, the owner looked at it and said this motor has a bad o-ring, non the less I was a bit irritated as this is supposed to be a brand new engine and the first one I ever purchased, so the owner pulled the HS needle out and it has 2 o-rings, one red and one black, the black one was busted up and he said normally engines only have one o-ring and that was the issue with the HSN not budging much, my question is does the werks b5 supposed to have 2 o-rings, one black and one red or was this possibly a returned motor, lastly should I be returning this engine to Tower Hobbies?
The red o-ring sits up against a smooth surface inside of the HS needle housing, so it seals perfectly. The black o-ring sits against the threaded portion on the inside of the HS needle housing and provides the resistance meaning this is the o-ring that stops the needle position from moving due to vibrations etc. This threaded area is coarse and as the needles are adjusted it will wear (slice up) the o-ring which if this was the only o-ring used could eventually result in an air leak. So in essence it's the sacrificial o-ring! Cranking the needle all the way out will result in some cuts to the o-ring especially if it was not lubricated, so if you are seeing some wear to the black o-ring that is not anything to be concerned about because again it's only purpose is to stop the needle from vibrating around aka "self adjusting". So just put a drop of after run on both o-rings, insert the HS needle and turn it in until the top of the needle is flush with the top of the HS needle housing (brass housing that is screws into) and you should be good to go
Let me know if you have any other questions!
12-18-2011 | 04:59 AM
#7853
Thanks Everyone!
Hi you PM'd me the exact same thing as your post so I might as well answer here. As Alex pointed out in the link all of our HS needles have 2 o-rings. The owners info is a little dated, this is the current way of doing things as it further reduces any possibility of air leaks The red o-ring sits up against a smooth surface inside of the HS needle housing, so it seals perfectly. The black o-ring sits against the threaded portion on the inside of the HS needle housing and provides the resistance meaning this is the o-ring that stops the needle position from moving due to vibrations etc. This threaded area is coarse and as the needles are adjusted it will wear (slice up) the o-ring which if this was the only o-ring used could eventually result in an air leak. So in essence it's the sacrificial o-ring!
Cranking the needle all the way out will result in some cuts to the o-ring especially if it was not lubricated, so if you are seeing some wear to the black o-ring that is not anything to be concerned about because again it's only purpose is to stop the needle from vibrating around aka "self adjusting". So just put a drop of after run on both o-rings, insert the HS needle and turn it in until the top of the needle is flush with the top of the HS needle housing (brass housing that is screws into) and you should be good to go Let me know if you have any other questions!
The red o-ring sits up against a smooth surface inside of the HS needle housing, so it seals perfectly. The black o-ring sits against the threaded portion on the inside of the HS needle housing and provides the resistance meaning this is the o-ring that stops the needle position from moving due to vibrations etc. This threaded area is coarse and as the needles are adjusted it will wear (slice up) the o-ring which if this was the only o-ring used could eventually result in an air leak. So in essence it's the sacrificial o-ring! Cranking the needle all the way out will result in some cuts to the o-ring especially if it was not lubricated, so if you are seeing some wear to the black o-ring that is not anything to be concerned about because again it's only purpose is to stop the needle from vibrating around aka "self adjusting". So just put a drop of after run on both o-rings, insert the HS needle and turn it in until the top of the needle is flush with the top of the HS needle housing (brass housing that is screws into) and you should be good to go
Let me know if you have any other questions!
12-18-2011 | 11:41 AM
#7854
12-18-2011 | 05:49 PM
#7855
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 223
From: Bishop, Texas
Great Job!!!!!!
2011 force series sportsman truggy winner. B5 motor awsome, awsome , what else can i say. thanks to ron for supporting our series and for giving the winners of the sportsman truggy and buggy sponsorships support. ive only been racing for 2yrs come the first of this yr. and ive only ran one other motor since i started racing, and let me tell you that these motors are awsome, awsome power, smooth and are very easy to tune. once i learned how to tune a motor it made all the diffrence in my raceing. i won a sponsorship this year from werks and i just want to thank ron for that, so thank you! P.S. MY WIFE IS MY PIT GIRL AND SHE LIKES THAT I DONT HAVE FLAMEOUTS AND TUNEING PROBLEMS AND THAT MAKES THIS HOBBIE ALOT OF FUN FOR US.
Shot at 2011-12-15
Shot at 2011-12-15
12-24-2011 | 09:53 PM
#7856
With the holidays now upon us I wanted to take a second to not only wish all of you a Merry Christmas but also to thank all of you that have supported us over the years! Thank you again and Merry Christmas to all!
12-26-2011 | 07:39 AM
#7858
Fear farm
Great fear farm raceway is where you are going to want to race, hope you are here for the nitro challenge coming up in February 2012, if you need directions or anything shoot me a PM.
12-26-2011 | 07:49 AM
#7859
B5 & 2013
Ok guys remember I am a rookie, but I am on my 10th tank of break in, following the break in instructions during the first 6-8 tanks the engine never reached much over 150 degrees, I was told this is bad, now since I am on the hsn, it's between 180 And 200, when I run it, it has a high idle, when I bring it to a stop, the high idle remains for about 15 seconds then drops to a medium idle for about 15 more seconds and then drops to a steady idle, am I on the right track or are there some things that need to change, I do want to say although I do not have much to compare the b5 to as I only have run the kyosho rtr truggy, the difference in response and speed is unbelievable,it definitely wi
L not have a problem clearing the tripple at fear farm, my kyosho barely makes it over with perfect timing and jump. The b5 I have in a mugen 6t.
L not have a problem clearing the tripple at fear farm, my kyosho barely makes it over with perfect timing and jump. The b5 I have in a mugen 6t.
12-26-2011 | 07:52 AM
#7860
