Divey just run it out of the box do not mess with anything you will be just fine

Reading through the pages I have seen alot of people trying to explain tunning the werks b5 engines, So i thought I would shoot some footage of different set ups regarding tunning for people to have a visual reference rather than a read me how to as it has been posted many times...

First up i have done the 2 stage idle tune with about a 3 second idle on before returning to stable idle, 1st stage after coming of some wide open runs the motor idles on for 3 seconds, 2nd stage the engine returns to the correct stable idle position....I hope this helps people understnad the 2 stage idle tune.

+ YouTube Video

Ron, any idea what would cause me to go fat leaving the pits after a re-fuel. Tons of power leaving the pits but after the first turn it went fat on me and flamed.

So far I am tried changed fuel line and tank and bearings and clutches.

I have leaned the bottom to a lean bog and backed it back just so.

Could there be an issue in the way im getting fueled?

It's not going to be be the fuel line, tank or bearings. Generally this is caused by either having a too low idle, rich bottom end or being rich on the HS needle setting (which affects overall fuel delivery). On a full tank when the lid snaps shut it causes a pressure spike which forces a spurt of fuel into the carb causing the engine to go rich for a second. If it is already rich or the the idle is low it will cause it to conk out.

After how many gallons should the con rod be changed on B5?

Ok as per Neals request I have done two video's today at the track on the main straight which is 55 mitres long, Neal asked me to drive the werks B5 pro really hard so that people can see what the engine idle should do when the engine is tuned in properly and another one with the engine idle just a little bit larger and the low speed needle just a little rich.

I had already done two complete tanks back to back on the track so that the engine and chassis would all ready be holding temps before setting up the camera for this footage, I was running a werks #6 plug, 2013 werks pipe, nitro x 30% nitro fuel and really well worn proline holeshot tyres, The body was off the car to make it easier to tune the car where I wanted it to be so the temps would be higher under race conditions with the body on.

SINGLE STAGE IDLE TUNE:

+ YouTube Video

TWO STAGE IDLE TUNE:

+ YouTube Video

Read the description on the video's if you would like more info about the tune

That's exactly what I needed Sam, that helps out a ton. You definitely can hear the difference between the 2. Thank you for filming this. Are you no longer running motors by Robin.

Terry

Change it when you replace the P/S set. Our rods will go the life of the sleeve without being changed!

Do the motors come with a plug. Just wondering as mine did not.
Terry

B5 does not. The B6, B5-Pro & B6-Pro do.

Thanks. Ordered some #5's and ODO97T's.
Terry

I have a new B5 with 1 race day on it and I love it so far but I do have a question about the above videos. Do you want your engine to have a 2 stage idle? I have always tried to tune engines to idle down immediately.Am I wrong?

Thanks

Thanks

No, you do not want to tune an engine so that it has a two speed idle. Savage posted the video's to explain to people exactly what a regular idle and a two stroke idle sounds like so that they understand how to fix it.

Does anybody know what kind of screw is the one that mounts clutch bell to the crankshaft? I'm tired of stripping that one every time i try to check/replace the bearings. The Losi one seems to be weak so i'm looking for a replacement...