Yes it is like here, costs the same as the OS Vspec :(

As long as you can use 2xxx series pipes in sanctioned events I would not touch anything starting with 3. They restrict way too much and even if there is better economy in some cases the lack of power pretty much destroys the benefit. Problems with the 3xxx series was the reason EFRA re-approved the 2xxx series

Unfortunately the importers have to deal with import duties and VAT which brings the price up a bit. Overall though RC products are more expensive in Europe and that has to do with the crazy taxes that your governments charge and that I hate to say is not something that we can do anything about. What I will tell you though is while the V-Spec is a great engine I think that you will find that the B5 has more power overall and will last quite a bit longer to boot! So in the long run it might be the same price but you will end up getting more for your money.

Regards,

Ron

Thanks Brian, glad that you were impressed with the motors that you got to see! We put a lot of time into developing it and I really think that when it comes to bang for your buck there is no better value on the market at this time!

ieie, thanks for picking up one of our engines! Regarding taking it apart and flushing it, there is really no need to do this but at the same time this is not something that will hurt if you do it either. Just please make sure that if you do when you remove the back-plate that you have the piston at top dead center or else your going to break off the piston skirt. Same with the sealing of the engine, no real need to do it but again it will not hurt anything to do so. No need to replace the con-rod after break in like with the Go's that you have run in the past. The con-rod will basically last the life of the piston and sleeve. The only time to be concerned about this is if you for instance have a run away and the car ends up on it's lid revving to the moon. Then there is the possibility that the rod might stretch and you might want to replace it as a precaution. Lastly regarding the GO pipes, I've never tried any of them. Please let us know your opinion once you get a chance to run them!

Regards,

Ron

Sorry, forgot to get back to you about this yesterday. Regarding the pipe extender, this was only made for (and included in) the 2057 pipe set, not the 2013. These are not sold as stand alone's and honestly I'm not sure why you would want to run one on the 2013, that pipe makes PLENTY of bottom end already lol! In this case I'm going to have to say you don't need it, even if you could find one save your money.

Poinas2 hit the nail on the head with his comments (thanks!). The 3014 will really smooth out the power band on the B5 and also increase the run time. However it's going to do this by being a ton more restrictive. As long as you can get away with using the 2000 series pipes as he mentioned I would probably recommend that you stick with them (unless you are for instance running on a small, super slick track or something). The 2057 or 2056 are in my opinion much better choices which will give you similar run times but with superior performance. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks

Understood and valid point. Thx, Ron.

Yo Ron, How you been? The B5 Looks nice.... might have to bolt one in once the snow melts..... that wont be for awhile :(

Perfect price :nod:

you still alive tony ?? :smile:

no more travelling for ya ?

monty

Poinas2 and Ron thanks for the info. I have not tried any of the 3xxx series pipes before and did not realize they were that restrictive. I will keep running the 2013 and patiently wait for the Werks 2057. ;)

Hey Monty waasup ya I travel when my budget allows..... so not lately lol I'm not a rockstar like you guys up there :lol:

Thanks Ron for the reply. I won't seal it straight away or flush it out, it looks pretty clean right now. Thanks for the tip about the back plate and the piston.

Anyone that's running a D8 what thickness shims have you used between the flywheel collet and front bearing? I've just tried with out any quickly and flywheel rubs top of crank case where the car inserts. The shims I've got now are 7x12mm are these okay to use or the OD is too large?

thanks
Jason.

HI Guys,

Found some shims for the flywheel collet. Using a 7x10mm shim from the ofna clutch shim it's 1 mm thick and another 7x12m shim for a total thickness of 1.5mm. Tried only using the 1mm shim but it looks like the flywheel was a little close to the carb.
Can I ask what other people with a D8 have done?

I just changed flywheels...