stock a B5 has 2 silver .29 MM shims...1 brass .18 shim and 1 brass .13 shim....you want to remove the brass .13 shim..... you may need to slightly richen your HSN

So it has a total of 4 shims; two silver and two brass. I need to remove the
.13 brass shim, correct?

Neil can you expand upon what gains I will see from this shim removal (fuel mileage,low end,top end etc.)?

Thanks!

it picks up across the board pretty much...

All the dyno results are up on the Clockworks thread. Bone stock, shim removed to full mod. Pipe comparisons also. Alot of good info.

here is a dyno showing before and after removing shim..... The bottom end is actually better, but this run I had the tune out slightly after removing the shim, I richened the needle slightly too much causing the bottom end to load up resulting in a slight dip in power at take off



http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...testB52013.jpg

Thanks, if you guys want to talk about this more in depth please take it off line or move it to your thread Neal. There is a bit of a liability issue here that I would prefer not to deal with. I'm pretty easy on working with most people about warranty stuff and I do not want to have to change to the old "you run it you own it mess" that other companies do simply because people that do not understand how to adjust deck height start destroying their engines by doing stuff they don't understand.

Ron that is not a problem. Thanks for the continued support on this thread. Your dedication to customer support/service is what really convinced me to pull the trigger on your products (B5,2013 and clutch). Your products live up to all the hype they have generated!

Thanks for the kind words. I think that I should probably add that I do not have a problem with people receiving information about our engines etc. but when it comes to deck height it really is something that you need to understand or it is not a question of "if" but rather "how quickly" you will destroy your engine. And when I say destroy I mean like totally destroyed as in the piston and sleeve set, head button and possibly even the rod completely shot. This is not something that you can take care of with a quick $20 re-pinch, you are buying all new parts! As mentioned there is a certain level of engine knowledge needed to do this properly and safely.

Don't take this wrong but I've looked at the questions that you posted on Neals site and just by reading them I can tell that you are venturing into an area that you do not completely understand and my concern is that people will read this information, not understand it and end up messing up their motors. For instance when I say to people that they can safely pull a thin shim, I'm assuming that people have a certain level of common sense and are going to actually take a pair of calipers, remove all of the shims, measure all of the shims and then remove the thin one lol, not just assume that a certain shim is the thin one or worst case not even be able to tell that there is a thin shim. If they get it wrong, they are going to drop the deck height too low which will result in a too high compression ratio which will ultimately result in detonation which will damage the engine.

Additionally before you even get to the point of reducing deck height you need to be able to properly tune your engine. If you can not get your engine to a proper state of tune consistently you will not even notice the difference. Having said that though what will happen is that now that you reduced the deck height your engine will be more difficult to tune, meaning that the window of proper tune or margin of error has gotten narrower. So if you have issues properly tuning and engine anyways, drop the deck height and it's going to be even more difficult!

So...is it worth doing? Yes if you can tune an engine properly and you do understand what the effects of reducing deck height are and most importantly if you understand the basics of how to do it properly and how to measure the shims correctly. If you think that you might not be able to do any of that properly, then concentrate on getting comfortable tuning the engine properly because that is going to make a much bigger (and more noticeable) difference to performance than messing with the compression ratio. Just my $0.02 and I hope that this clarifies where I was coming from:)

Regards,

Ron

Hi Ron!

PM sent.

Thanks!

build up
 

I need some some help. I was changing the plug and noticed black build up over half the piston head. I know its not an engine problem, i'm just not sure whether its or fuel or plug.

I was running byrons then decided to try 2 gallons of odonnell, now i've been using sidewinder team stryke 4 gallons, all 30%.

I also switched from an os p3 to an od 97t.

The engine runs great! I'm not sure which what to do about the build up and how to prevent it. Works fuel is not cost effective for me since it cost $60 for shipping alone. I live around dallas, if anyone has werks let me know. I run through at least a case a month so that shipping takes away from the budget.

Thanks, Rex

What you are seeing is carbon buildup. To clean this take the engine apart and then carefully hold the piston in your hand. Take some fuel and wet down the top of the piston and then wet down the corner of a rag. Then just put the rag against the piston top and move it gently in a circular motion being careful to keep it away from the edges of the piston. After a while of rubbing, soaking, rubbing again you should be able to get it all off. As mentioned though make sure that you keep the rubbing to the top of the piston as any build up of carbon, varnish or anything else on the side of the piston serves as an aid to proper fit and should not be removed.

rex, carbon build up happens on all engines with all fuels even your car that takes you to work and back.lol the richer the mix the more carbon. i take the motor apart and with alittle alum polish on a rag laying flat on the bench i slowly polish the top of the piston. you dont need to remove the rod/pin, just use a very small amount so it does NOT get into the wrist pin area. clean with alittle fuel, put a light film of oil on. the head button will also have carbon build up. i leave the plug in the button and slowly with some polish on a rag clean the button. remove the plug and THROW it away, clean with fuel. this keeps the polish from building up in the threads of the button so when you put the plug back in the polish does not enter the motor. do not use the od 97t plug. this plug is much colder. if you cant get the werks #5 plugs use the os p3 or even a p4.

ha, sorry ron you type faster than me.lol

Hey Rex if you need any help in person im on the Werks Team and im in the Dallas area so if you need any help or any questions PM me or email me.
Thanks Lance

Thanks for the help and advice getting the build up off and leaving it on the sides. I've wasted a few engines in my younger days learning what not to do. Shouldn't be a problem now.

Not to argue but what is wrong with the 97t in a b5? It tunes great and hold it. It seems earier for me to work with and last longer than the p3s i was using. It works great in my b6 too. I dont want to use anything thats not good for my engines.