The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
#1531
The stock flywheel I have laying here measures 33.89 mm
#1532
Ron, any pics of the new clutch nut? How long ago was the update made? How can I ensure I'm getting the new one if I order from Tower or Amain or Fleabay. I've got 2 Werks clutch setups that I don't use and was kinda wondering why no one really used them much anymore. I hear about 4 shoe clutch setups from M2C, Ascendency, Fioroni, etc, but not really Werks anymore... And they used to be the hot ticket. If I can get the right clutch nut, I'll revive my Werks clutches. I was just about to order some RC8 clutch shoes from Answer RC, but I may hold off now.
Also, I finally put some fuel through my B5. Got up to the third tank on the breakin process. Had the head wrapped and preheated because of the mid 30 degree temps.
Also, I finally put some fuel through my B5. Got up to the third tank on the breakin process. Had the head wrapped and preheated because of the mid 30 degree temps.
Regards,
Ron
#1534
Regards,
Ron
#1535
I bought mine from Amain 12-24-09 and it included the upgraded adjustment nut.So you should be fine.I had many people at the last race that were very interested in what I was running.(Werks B5,Werks racing clutch,and 2010/2013 pipe).I would highly recommend this setup not only for performance but ease of maintenance.
#1536
Thanks Ron,
I'll give this a shot...
Again this is why we went with this engine. Excellent customer service!!!
I'll give this a shot...
Again this is why we went with this engine. Excellent customer service!!!
JANEKII, sorry about the delayed response, I've been off of the site for a couple of days (so anyone that has sent me PM's etc. please be advised I'm working my way through them and will be getting back to you over the course of the next day or so).
Now regarding what you are seeing there are several things that can cause the tune to change i.e. weather changes, humidity, plug (going out), fuel tank/line issues, clogged filter etc. etc. etc. The first thing that I would advise is just like everyone else (thank you guys) has suggested is to just quickly double check everything is ok. If everything looks fine then you are probably just off on tune. Simply set your air gap to aprox .5mm, set your HS flush, set your LS flush and then fire the engine up. We know your engine is broken in so you can do things a little quicker. Blip the throttle for a couple of minutes to get some heat in the engine case and chassis then let it come down to idle. We are again going to use my system so if the idle is low, lean the LS to bring it back up. If the idle is high, richen the LS to bring it down. Once you get a smooth, steady idle toss the car on the track and start doing some laps and adjusting the HS for the top end performance that you want. Please keep in mind that when adjusting the HS if you lean it, it will also have the effect of leaning your LS. So... your idle will go up, simply richen the LS a couple hours to offset this (do not touch the idle stop screw) and you see a steady idle again. Keep on adjusting the HS, then the LS (for the idle) until you get the performance that you want. Once you get the HS set to where you want it, double check the idle and adjust it one last time with the LS needle and you are done!
Don't get stuck in the I have to see this temp in order for the engine to be running right type mentality. There are a lot of variables that will affect the optimum running temp of your engine and chiefly what is affecting it most this time of year is the exterior temperature. If it's 20 degrees outside your engine may only want to run at 190. If it's fast enough for you at 190 then leave it there and have fun...
Hope this helps, please give this a shot and let us know what you come up with.
Regards,
Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing
Now regarding what you are seeing there are several things that can cause the tune to change i.e. weather changes, humidity, plug (going out), fuel tank/line issues, clogged filter etc. etc. etc. The first thing that I would advise is just like everyone else (thank you guys) has suggested is to just quickly double check everything is ok. If everything looks fine then you are probably just off on tune. Simply set your air gap to aprox .5mm, set your HS flush, set your LS flush and then fire the engine up. We know your engine is broken in so you can do things a little quicker. Blip the throttle for a couple of minutes to get some heat in the engine case and chassis then let it come down to idle. We are again going to use my system so if the idle is low, lean the LS to bring it back up. If the idle is high, richen the LS to bring it down. Once you get a smooth, steady idle toss the car on the track and start doing some laps and adjusting the HS for the top end performance that you want. Please keep in mind that when adjusting the HS if you lean it, it will also have the effect of leaning your LS. So... your idle will go up, simply richen the LS a couple hours to offset this (do not touch the idle stop screw) and you see a steady idle again. Keep on adjusting the HS, then the LS (for the idle) until you get the performance that you want. Once you get the HS set to where you want it, double check the idle and adjust it one last time with the LS needle and you are done!
Don't get stuck in the I have to see this temp in order for the engine to be running right type mentality. There are a lot of variables that will affect the optimum running temp of your engine and chiefly what is affecting it most this time of year is the exterior temperature. If it's 20 degrees outside your engine may only want to run at 190. If it's fast enough for you at 190 then leave it there and have fun...
Hope this helps, please give this a shot and let us know what you come up with.
Regards,
Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing
#1537
WOW! i ran my buddies b5 over the weekend and its the best motor ive ever run. ive had os vspec,jp mod vspec,ninja,grp,nova p5 and none of these were as smooth,had as much low end and ripped on top like the werks b5 and its a $200 motor! had the mugen 2042(os 2060) pipe on and it had too much top end for our indoor track and run time was at 9:40 with it still rich. cant wait to put the 2013 pipe on to smooth it out more and get all of the run time out of it.
#1538
WOW! i ran my buddies b5 over the weekend and its the best motor ive ever run. ive had os vspec,jp mod vspec,ninja,grp,nova p5 and none of these were as smooth,had as much low end and ripped on top like the werks b5 and its a $200 motor! had the mugen 2042(os 2060) pipe on and it had too much top end for our indoor track and run time was at 9:40 with it still rich. cant wait to put the 2013 pipe on to smooth it out more and get all of the run time out of it.
#1539
For any of you guys looking for B5's there are some still in stock at RC Planet. These are the new 2010 versions with the new alloy carb, so latest specs on the motors. Link to the page is below:
http://www.rcplanet.com/Werks_Offroa.../wrxtl21b5.htm
Regards,
Ron
http://www.rcplanet.com/Werks_Offroa.../wrxtl21b5.htm
Regards,
Ron
#1545
Hey guys just wanted to let you know that A-Main should be receiving a small shipment of B5's tomorrow with another large shipment to follow on Tuesday. So if you've been waiting... get your order in!!!



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