pantera nitro

have you shimmed between the back of the collet and the engine casing?

i had the same problem with my fioroni clutch/Redline 5 port and all i had to do was shim it to bring the collet forward (towards the clutch bell) so it allows the flywheel to tighten further back along the collet without hitting the engine casing before its tight enough!

not had a problem since then.

Mike

blktransam

iTrader: (59)

well I have had this fironi clutch sitting in my tool box for like 6 mths never installed it I have been very happy with my m2c 4 show set-up that I have ran for like 1.5 years....so yesturday as I was putting my car back together (had torn down from last race to go through everything as I do every race) I decided to throw in the fironi clutch I am running a bmx6 with a rb ws7-ll got everything back together last night and decided to do a quick test in back yard to see if it had a bog or anything and this clutch straight up rips! I will have a better idea on sunday (race day) but as of right now I feel very confident I will like this clutch set up more then my m2c 4 shoe....

vti-chris

iTrader: (3)

Which one do you have?
2 shoe, 4 shoe(70-30) or 2007 version 4 shoe(50-50)?

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

I tried everything
dremeled back the cone end , shim between engine..
still slips on crank fastening
nut to the right side to engage on the threads later...

I have a 2 parts carbon

vti-chris

iTrader: (3)

The nut that bolts on the crank will fit only one site...the one that has an inner groove inside...this is used to slide over tha end of the threaded crank section.

zixxer

iTrader: (61)

+1 m2c is the only way to go ...the fioroni is a decent set up if you dont want any clutch m/a

if you run an m2c you dont get the wear on the bells that you would on a typical 3 shoe set up ....in other words you dont get the groove in the middle ....try a different bell there are plenty of narrow style bells out there that work just fine on an xray ...i mean 28 bucks for a bell and some bearings is retarded

+1 its the easy way out ...a wise man once told me if you want thhe performance ..youve got to just suck it up and run a stout clutch ...

try shims behind the collet and also use a losi collet ..the are short and stubby and they will work

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

it's the cone that doesn't grab onto the crank...

why on earth they had to change that..
the old one is going like that on all my engines without shim
or anything else...

zixxer

iTrader: (61)

get a losi collet

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

don't see any losi collet alone for sale..

zixxer

iTrader: (61)

here ya go

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Collet-Spacers

zixxer

iTrader: (61)

figured i would post this ...when i had problems with bottom end this what mr fioroni sent me

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

thank you sir

butch man

Jammin you dont know hate/flak. Try mentioning you run a Werks clutch,then even the fioroni guys start hate.BTW have you ever noticed the script on the Werks clutch that says made in italy?

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

That is an interesting read...I have tried the Turbo sliding clutch as well as the TT2007...both these clutches never worked correctly in truggy for me, i do however run the turbo in my mod 28 powered DM-1, the low engagement and lack of snap make my car easier to drive..... Now I have yet to try the Twin turbo and am now wondering if it may perform better in a truggy then the other 2 clutches did..... I guess i will order one and give it a try, I didn't realize the Twin turbo was better for a heavier vehicle, i had been running the TT 2007 instead... I wish A-Main would have a description of what each clutch is intended for

tristyn

iTrader: (4)

I have been running the Fioroni clutch for a few yrs. with good results. I do only run the 70/30 split on both truggy and buggy. This clutch set up allows for 3 springs, 2 in the 70% side & 1 on the 30%. This set up gives you a little better tuning option while using standard or stiff springs. This clutch has always grabbed awesome for me.