Hello everyone. This thread is here to discuss anything you want with engines and fuel. Look for advice and ask questions about PowerHouse RC and ColdFusion Fuel's. We want this to be as friendly as humanly possible. Please try to keep all bashing to a minimum. We want to be helpful and keep this hobby growing. Remember it is a family forum.

i have my modded grp untuned engine on the cooker waiting for initial start up. i got the engine from mark at powerhouse.(great guy). anyhow is there anything i need to know b4 i start this thing? cuz in 20 minutes she is getting moved over to the starter box.

thanks
shaun

ive also got a non tuned grp (but with the turbo mod) from mark and i love it (i did change to a turbo head tho) ive never felt under powered anywhere from the tightest switchbacks to the longest straights...the only advice i can give is be patient with the tuning...and make sure u have a good pipe combo to utilize everything that motor is now capable of...u might feel awkward with how lean your gonna be able to go with the needle settings (im at 2 1\4 turns from closed on the top end not at full race tune...maybe about 85-90%, but ive got a crap pipe for now) ur gona love that grp!!!

To add to what hustler said. Preheat the engine prior to starting. try to get as close to 180deg as U can. Will take strain off the rod and crank. Hair dryer, Heat gun, or a type of head/ block heater will work really good. And like posted before be patient during breakin.

Shaun, the GRP I sent you is the standard race version so the tuning will be very easy. The turboed cranks are more sensative to tune and pipe selection but work very very well when figured out. As far as break in, preheat the engine to about 180-200 degrees as Bob mentioned and let her rip. I looked at the breakin bible at the top of the threads and it looks like something I would follow so stick to that and you should have really good luck with it.

What's up mark-got the warmer and dude its gonna be the best thing since sliced bread. I do think a 12 volt version would be even better for sitting on pit road before your main during driver intros or track prep. Been looking at putting an inverter in my rb pitbox so I could run it off my s/b batt. Anyway keep up the good work your engines are bada$$, gotta have a cleanout sale, finally bought me a house and will be moving at the end of the month. If everyone wants to go in and get me a housewarming gift a powerhouse toro nero would be just fine-ha j/k.
Been thinking about trying some of the cold fusion fuel-just gotta wait till after the move
Jason

and remember to keep commercial sales out of this thread or it will be deleted.

Yes Mr. Thread Police Ossifer. We'll be good

thats what I like to hear

Ofcourse I will do my best to keep commercial sales out this thread. If anyone new to nitro or is just looking for more info about powerhouse before U post U can checkout www.powerhousercperformance.com . The company number is there if U want to ask any question your not comfortable posting. U can also give me a call @ 1-717-808-7988. I will answer any question to the best of my ability. TY Bob W.

Hi guys,
Was just wondering if anyone has used a Race prep Toro Nero in a buggy yet other than Mark of course.
I just want to know how you are finding it and what kind of application your using. I.e clutch setup and pipe combo.
I race on medium to small tracks with alot of short run up jumps. But do have long straights at times.

Cheers

Keep up the good work!!

I'm sure you don't want to hear about mine but I will tell you anyway. I am finding the toro to be very user friendly. It's hard to describe the power delivery but picture a CR250 coming out of a corner in second gear. It has a very distinct sound, nice and throaty but puts the power down very nicely. I am running the dynamite long life shoes and have tried using drilled shoes, higher stall speeds etc. and this thing loves to be loaded hard and loaded early. I will be going back to the full shoe and the 1.0 springs this weekend and that seems to be the hot ticket. The lighter shoes and/or stiffer springs gave it a slightly high stall speed and it would actually bog or flatten out coming out of the corner causing excessive heat and shoe/bell wear and eventually it ran thin on the contact surface, glazed the shoes and lost corner exit. I found this out the hard way in the A-main this past weekend. i tried running 1.1 shoes with 2mm drilled shoes and it melted the shoes and bell to nothing I had a feeling it was going to do that but I had a slight low end clutch stall bog using 1.0's with the same drilled shoes and I wanted to see if would get worse if I increased the stall on it. It was an experiment that I already knew the answer to but more of I wanted to show a guy what would happen and what to listen for in the clutches instead of trying to find the answer in the needles as alot of people commonly do. I ran it with solid shoes and .9 springs the race before that and it grunted out of every corner with authority but had just a slight clutch bog on the initial hit but it quickly overcame that with the engine's torque band so I think the .95's or 1.0's with a full shoe will be the good middle ground on that one. If you are running heavy shoes, try the 1.05's.

Lol no not at all ill listen to your knowledge all day Mark.
I just didnt want to take up your time as i know your a very busy man.

Thanks

Hey all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Howdy Vernon. It's windy outside.