All engines demand a different temperature to perform at full potential. Better to do carb adjustments by 'ear' and eye... seeing that in full acceleration, your car leaves by the exhaust a small trail of smoke will show you that's is healty, lean it accordingly this and don't focuse only in temperature readings.

Two engines of the same brand and model should not perform equally at the same temperature. Found one Sirio that refused to perform well under 120ºC temps (Sirio mills love to go slightly hotter than Nova ones) and other loved to go at 135ºC.

thanks corse-r!:D

It is absolutly correct and I am personaly agrre 150%. Different brands has different parameters when engine start free up for best performance. It is mostly related to piston material properties-better properties ( less temp expention-less running temperature.) Also it has something to do with tapering of the sleeve. So basecaly we can say, temperature of run related to piston/sleeve constraction designs.:nod:
This is why one of most important issue in engine's design is constraction of p/s set and takes a lot of time to get right set ups-material properties, tapering etc. Big developments and not always sucsesefull from first shot.:nod:

I see that gearing down will help acceleration and the Sirio to get into it's powerband, but will top speed suffer on large tracks? Mine is a dog right now, not real happy since my OS CZ-Z out performs it so far. Runnning a legal .12 in an R40 with stock gearing, RD Logics one piece legal, and NR C6 plug, on O'donnell 20%. Getting my @_$ fed to me currently.

clutch
 

Readjust your clutch to come in later, also buy the Mugen grey shoe it will fit. :D

Tks for the reply. I already have it engaging pretty late. I will try a little later. It just doesn't seem to get to full rpm. I got the 2 spd to shift after about 60-80' but sometimes it won't reach the speed to shift. If I set it to shift earlier, it also bogs down. Feels like I'm running an old Kyosho .10. With the wheels off the ground it screams. Got a 15 tooth 1st pinion and an 18t 2nd on order.

Yes it will, and top speed won't suffer, you'll get that engine into it's powerband.
I did three things to my Sirio S12 EVO2:
First: get one shim out from the head to run with 20% nitro.
Second: I normally run my Nova based engines with 14-48 on first gear, and 17-45 on second gear. I had to go to 14-49 and 17-46 with the Sirio. (Yokomo GT4 with Neo Centax Clutch)
Third: Use Novamega 2182-TPO3 pipe at 97mm
After that I set a new track record 3 weeks ago (still unbroken)

Now what do you mean by large tracks??, How long is the main straight??
Just see what gearing are the fastest guys using at your track with Nova based engines and just go one more tooth shorter with the Sirio and try.
Hope this helps
AFM

How is your carb set at now??
AFM

The straight is about 150'. My carb HSN is about 5 turns out and the LSN is about 2 1/3 turns out. Funny thing is, from what I've read, the LSN is even with the end of the slide. Mine is way past the end, by like 3 mm. If I back it out to even, I think the low end will be way too fat.

My EVO2 ended up with full power, and running like the Beep-Beep Bird with 5 3/4 out on the HSN and 3 7/8 out on the LSN, and at that point it is flush with the slide end, and engine temp is between 100°C to 120°C. with air temps around 25°C to 28°C, and humidity at 80 to 85%.
Your straight is about the same as mine (155ft), and i run my Evo2 (with the internal gear ratio of my Yokomo) at 7.0 drive ratio on first gear and 5.76 drive ratio on second gear for 63mm dia. tires allround.
To calculate what combinations you need, what you have to do, is divide the number of tooth from your spur and pinion at each speed, and multiply it by the internal gear ratio of your car, and you'll have your final drive ratio for each speed. You will have to correct one tooth up or down on your spurs according to your tire diameters.

Hope this helps
AFM

Thanks for your help, AFM. R40 stock ratios are 7.263 1st and 5.734 2nd. Right in the same ball park as yours (even lower 1st).
I'll even try backing out my LSN to even and see what happens.

Don't forget to take one shim out of the head......and i forgot to tell you that i'm using a Novamega 2182-TPO3 pipe at 97mm.
Good Luck
AFM

AFM is right.

Regarding the pipe. Make sure your pipe is suited to the engines power band. Choosing the wrong pipe really hurts the engine and stops it producing its full power capability.

But you have hit on something else when you mentioned backing out the low end needle. It is possible that you have set the needles too lean and are going beyond the optimum powerband range. If you reach and pass the sweet spot before the car is ready to change gear you will get the same effect that the engine is dead.

I was confused about the low end needle. I was looking again and the screw head is even with the ball end of the slide.

Isn't 97mm a very short tuning length? Shorter for top end and longer for more bottom end power, right? My RD Logic is about 150mm from the exhaust port to the baffle, and it is a short pipe. I can't imagine a pipe 30% shorter than this.

Every pipe has its powerband design, so I use the lenght range recommended by the manufacturer and try different lenghts until i find my "sweet spot" for the engine and track.
I use the RB method and it has proven me good results, at least with Nova (non-in-line based pipes). I don't like very much in-line pipes , because they are supposedly tuned for the best...but leave you no tuning options. Go to following link to see what i mean when I say 97mm.

www.rbproducts.com/rbww/pipe...ifoldlength.htm

It tells you how to measure that lenght, and in their pipe product description it tells you the min. and max. lenght suggested for each pipe.

AFM

By RB's method, my pipe is 93mm. It's probably killing my bottom end. Does anyone make single chamber pipes anymore? My OS is on a Paris ribbed pipe and screams. I went to the one piece baffled RD because my pipe kept disconnecting from the manifold. But, I did not notice any performance difference from the change from the Paris to the RD. I measured the distance from the end of the baffle to the manifold end of the muffler and it is 115 mm. It is a cone baffle. Is the Novamega and RB a cone baffle?

My engine has only one, thick shim. Took it out without clearance problems. A hint better bottom end. I need to retune the bottom end, it will die at idle every so often.

Stay away from those single chamber pipes, old technology for playing not racing.
All high performance pipes are designed with an initial divergent cone, a center straight chamber, and a final convergent cone.
Each manufacturer varies the angles, lenghts and diameters of every section depending on what powerband they want to emphasize of the engine, depending on its design and application.
RB, Novarossi, Novamega, etc etc. pipes are designed this way.
Why don't you get a Novamega 2182-TPO3 pipe for your Sirio??that is the one that I'm using with great success now. I don't like in-line(one piece) pipes, because you can't tune them.

Strange about your engine having only one shim??? all Sirios come with two copper shims, and i measured total chamber and ended up with the ideal chamber of .50mm for 20% nitro by removing the thin copper shim. Better check again. You should have a .25mm shim to end with a .50mm chamber.

For fine tuning your engine use Josh Cyrul's tuning guide available at Trinity's web site under Tips.

AFM

AFM is correct. I bet if you check on the bottom of the button that you will find that other shim stuck to it. I went crazy the first time I couldnt find a shim. I was cleaning the button and off popped the shim.

While on da subject on pipes. What would be a good pipe/header set up for da evo1 non turbo on a NTC3??? There arent too many opitions(AE dual chamber, RD logics dual chamber, or the dynamite header that is exteremly long but allows you to use any pipe)Thanks

Same here. The first time I opened my new Sirio, I was like, ummmm.....this thing doesn't have any shims on it! :lol:

Pipes...

Personally, I like the in-line pipes. They may not offer much in the ways of tuning, but they sure as heck wont cost you a race because of a coupler blowout. I took a full speed "T-bone" hit on the straightaway right to the connecting point on my in line pipe, it stregthed the spring and slightly moved the coupler joint, but I was able to finish the race.(A-main 2nd) Try that with a coupler! I help run one of our local tracks, and those silicone couplers are simply too unreliable for my taste.

Right now, I have my Trinity in line pipe on the car. If it doesn't give me the performance I want with my new Sirio, I don't have any problem switching.......but only to another in line pipe.:cool:

Changing my pipe will be a last resort. My pipe is a high perf pipe and designed for on road use. I'm still not convinced my pipe is causing my power woes. This is the second one I've tried with a totally different tuning length and it runs about identical to the other pipe. Thinking I got a lemon. No lie, mine has about 60% of the power as the rest of the field.
BTW, my engine model is the SP12TRPT, is this one junk? Also, once I got the head off I realized it has an aluminum sleeve (AAC). Anyone else having trouble?

Ok, I geared down a tooth on the 1st pinion and it is a whole new engine. At least reaching some top rpm now but still seems a bit slow getting there after it shifts. Will go down one on the 2nd gear pinion next.

Great, now we are talking, you see, now with second speed shorter you'll finish awaking your engine. Keep up the good work.
AFM

Hi guys, for your records below is the official answer I got from the factory concerning conrod life for the Sirio S12. Also I did measurement to crank pin on a new stock engine and found that it has 4.428mm.
Hope it helps everybody
AFM

"The right play between crank pin and conrod bushing is 0,04 - 0,05 mm. I don't know if you're able to check it, but I suggest you change the conrod every 2-3 hours running.
The life of the conrod depends mainly on the fuel you use, as the lubrification and the right carburation keeps your engine running well for long time."

Regards,

ANDREA ROSSI
Lavorazioni Meccaniche srl
Via Meucci, 3 Seggiano di Pioltello Mi Italy
Tel +39 0292160235 Fax +39 0292160581
Visit our Web Site at :
WWW.STAR-MOTOR.COM

Leaky plug
 

I have 2 Sirio engines, a 12 TRPPRO and a 21 PRPro.
They are both leaking from the glow plug.
Does anyone know the cause of this?
The plugs are tightened down really good, so I don't know what the problem could be.

Re: Leaky plug
 

Are they Turbo plug engines or Standard plug engines???
If they are standard plugs, check if the surface of the head button where the plug washer seats is square(flat), if not carefully place a 600 grit sand paper on a glass or flat surface and with light circles sand the surface until it is flat. Also change the copper washer with a new one, because they tend to deform after tightening.

AFM

Re: Re: Leaky plug
 

They are both Turbo Plugs.

*Turbo Buttons are very easy to cross thread, Check to make sure you haven't done so.

Also i have a question. I have a S12 TRP Pro turbo with 2 shims should i remove one to run 20% or is that only for evo engines?

Sirio carbs
 

how can you tell the difference of the old and new carb ?

If it's junk I'll take it.LOL

Mark

Go to the following thread (Shim Tuning), you'll find the answer there.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=27775

Good luck
AFM

Re: Sirio carbs
 

Very early Sirio carbs didn't have the mid range or jet needle adjustment, only had high and low needle adjustment.

AFM

How does the Sirio compare too a Nova based engine for tuning? I have a Rs12 S3 Jp looking for an alternative. I have been told RB's are hard to tune, specifically the Evo 2 model? Akso what is the connection betwwen Collari. Picco & Sirio? I know Collari are based on Picco, is it the same for Sirio or are they nova based?


Sn

The latest model from Sirio, the S12TRP "Evo2" is comparable in performance to the latest Nova based engines, it has a killer top end and is very easy to tune, very stable, and withstands high temps easily. I have one, and I'm very satisfied with it. It delivers its power at a higher powerband than the nova based engines, but when properly geared and with appropiate pipe IT IS A BOMB.

The L.Collari (Innotech)company started with modified Piccos, but now they work over Rossi engines.

The M.Collari company works over Sirio engines. Check this site:
werksracing.com/query.do?manufacturer=mcollari&main=engines&displa cement=12

AFM

Are the Sirio engines Nova based then?

No they aren't. Sirio engines are designed and manufactured by Star Motor Engineering. There is nothing in common with Nova based engines.
So resuming, you have:

Picco, and some derivative OFNA and Team Orion Wasp engines.

Novarossi, and all its derivatives (Rb, Novamega, Novamax, Mugen, JP, Rex, Top) and countless tuner engines.

Rossi

Sirio, and its derivative Tuned M.Collari version.

AFM

Any specs out yet for the M. Collari engines??

Check this site:

www.werksracing.com Under engines, look for M.Collari

AFM

I've checked but no specs on the site

Since i own a Sirio S12TRP "Evo2", and the base for the M.Collari engine is that one, I can tell you that my engine has 1.5hp@41,000rpm, so expect the same on the M.Collari, but probably on a different power band. It all depends on how it's been moded. Anyway my engine is ballistic.
AFM