By RB's method, my pipe is 93mm. It's probably killing my bottom end. Does anyone make single chamber pipes anymore? My OS is on a Paris ribbed pipe and screams. I went to the one piece baffled RD because my pipe kept disconnecting from the manifold. But, I did not notice any performance difference from the change from the Paris to the RD. I measured the distance from the end of the baffle to the manifold end of the muffler and it is 115 mm. It is a cone baffle. Is the Novamega and RB a cone baffle?

My engine has only one, thick shim. Took it out without clearance problems. A hint better bottom end. I need to retune the bottom end, it will die at idle every so often.

Stay away from those single chamber pipes, old technology for playing not racing.
All high performance pipes are designed with an initial divergent cone, a center straight chamber, and a final convergent cone.
Each manufacturer varies the angles, lenghts and diameters of every section depending on what powerband they want to emphasize of the engine, depending on its design and application.
RB, Novarossi, Novamega, etc etc. pipes are designed this way.
Why don't you get a Novamega 2182-TPO3 pipe for your Sirio??that is the one that I'm using with great success now. I don't like in-line(one piece) pipes, because you can't tune them.

Strange about your engine having only one shim??? all Sirios come with two copper shims, and i measured total chamber and ended up with the ideal chamber of .50mm for 20% nitro by removing the thin copper shim. Better check again. You should have a .25mm shim to end with a .50mm chamber.

For fine tuning your engine use Josh Cyrul's tuning guide available at Trinity's web site under Tips.

AFM

AFM is correct. I bet if you check on the bottom of the button that you will find that other shim stuck to it. I went crazy the first time I couldnt find a shim. I was cleaning the button and off popped the shim.

While on da subject on pipes. What would be a good pipe/header set up for da evo1 non turbo on a NTC3??? There arent too many opitions(AE dual chamber, RD logics dual chamber, or the dynamite header that is exteremly long but allows you to use any pipe)Thanks

Same here. The first time I opened my new Sirio, I was like, ummmm.....this thing doesn't have any shims on it! :lol:

Pipes...

Personally, I like the in-line pipes. They may not offer much in the ways of tuning, but they sure as heck wont cost you a race because of a coupler blowout. I took a full speed "T-bone" hit on the straightaway right to the connecting point on my in line pipe, it stregthed the spring and slightly moved the coupler joint, but I was able to finish the race.(A-main 2nd) Try that with a coupler! I help run one of our local tracks, and those silicone couplers are simply too unreliable for my taste.

Right now, I have my Trinity in line pipe on the car. If it doesn't give me the performance I want with my new Sirio, I don't have any problem switching.......but only to another in line pipe.:cool:

Changing my pipe will be a last resort. My pipe is a high perf pipe and designed for on road use. I'm still not convinced my pipe is causing my power woes. This is the second one I've tried with a totally different tuning length and it runs about identical to the other pipe. Thinking I got a lemon. No lie, mine has about 60% of the power as the rest of the field.
BTW, my engine model is the SP12TRPT, is this one junk? Also, once I got the head off I realized it has an aluminum sleeve (AAC). Anyone else having trouble?

Ok, I geared down a tooth on the 1st pinion and it is a whole new engine. At least reaching some top rpm now but still seems a bit slow getting there after it shifts. Will go down one on the 2nd gear pinion next.

Great, now we are talking, you see, now with second speed shorter you'll finish awaking your engine. Keep up the good work.
AFM

Hi guys, for your records below is the official answer I got from the factory concerning conrod life for the Sirio S12. Also I did measurement to crank pin on a new stock engine and found that it has 4.428mm.
Hope it helps everybody
AFM

"The right play between crank pin and conrod bushing is 0,04 - 0,05 mm. I don't know if you're able to check it, but I suggest you change the conrod every 2-3 hours running.
The life of the conrod depends mainly on the fuel you use, as the lubrification and the right carburation keeps your engine running well for long time."

Regards,

ANDREA ROSSI
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Leaky plug
 

I have 2 Sirio engines, a 12 TRPPRO and a 21 PRPro.
They are both leaking from the glow plug.
Does anyone know the cause of this?
The plugs are tightened down really good, so I don't know what the problem could be.

Re: Leaky plug
 

Are they Turbo plug engines or Standard plug engines???
If they are standard plugs, check if the surface of the head button where the plug washer seats is square(flat), if not carefully place a 600 grit sand paper on a glass or flat surface and with light circles sand the surface until it is flat. Also change the copper washer with a new one, because they tend to deform after tightening.

AFM

Re: Re: Leaky plug
 

They are both Turbo Plugs.

*Turbo Buttons are very easy to cross thread, Check to make sure you haven't done so.

Also i have a question. I have a S12 TRP Pro turbo with 2 shims should i remove one to run 20% or is that only for evo engines?

Sirio carbs
 

how can you tell the difference of the old and new carb ?

If it's junk I'll take it.LOL

Mark