Im finishing up my 8th gallon on this engine. Still runs strong, idles perfect, and i have yet to replace anything on it. I will defintely buy another one. The only gripe i have is it seems like the crankcase metal is too soft. Ive stripped three screws on the block. Maybe to much force on them but ive never had a problem with cranking down on screws on my other engines. Anyone else have this issue?

I got one yesterday second hand ... and it's awesome !!! A huge step up to my rtr nitro engine. It's still heaps tight so i gotta wait till the pinch wears away so i can race tune it... all in all i think it's great!! The price is awesome too !!!

i havent had that issue but i have not taken the motor of the mounts but once to convert to xray from losi. at the same gallon mark with the same results. love this motor. loved it even more when in the losi cause it makes people made ya know. im afraid i will say to open it up cause thats when i see putty im sure or the lack of. out of sight outa mind

About to order one with an re11 for my 2.0b. Any suggestions?



inb4 get a rc8

I would get the 2035 pipe for it. i ran the dynamite 053 on it and it is no comparison to running it with the matching pipe. its much smoother all around.

dont worry about it being in an rc8. mines in a mugen lol.

Hey guys,

Just bought one of these motors. What carb restrictor would you reccommend that I start off by using? Also, I have both a TTR 2035 and a TTR 2039. Which would you reccommend that i use? I've heard the low end is awesome, but the top end leaves a little to be desired. It's going in an RC8T.

Thanks

7mm with the 2035 will be your best combo.

getting the truck geared correctly for the track makes a huge difference in truggy. The stock gearing is too low for most tracks. A 52/14 or a 54/15 will work great most tracks.

I run a re11. I like it. 11+ min.7mm odo 97t plug. Plenty fast, coming off at 190-200.
out on the test track.

+ YouTube Video

+ YouTube Video

Now thats good to hear, anything will be a nice improvement over my current 6min run time. Not gonna mention engine dont wanna start a debate :P

I ordered some p4's with my new engine, thats what the local reedy drivers run

97t tuned alot better then the p3. Never tried a p4 though.

plugs
 

Hey guys,

Now I know I read this some where in this thread - but which O'Donnell plugs can I use for the Reedy engine? T99 & t97?
Hich one will be better?

Thanks.

97T

well guys...3 to 4 gallons in and this thing is toast...the quality just isnt there...rear bearing gave out and ruined the rod..sad becuase the motor was running ok and still had great comp but between the junky bearings, ramp in the crank that gives and smokin temps to get any type of performace this motor just doesnt cut it...i am a firm believer that temps that high ruin motors and bearings and thats why these things give so much...a local sponsored Team A driver here ran them and had 4 diff motors give from bearings and rod failures after about 3 gallons on all of them...

Other engines do the same thing. I understand your frustration though.

other engines dont do the same things...i have personally seen 6 or 7 of these things eat bearings and let go of rods in less then 3 or 4 gallons...none of these engines were broken in or tuned by rookies...i have ran nova, os, and rb and none of these motors ever had a bearing go bad in 2 or 3 gallons...heck ive had motors i get 8-9 gallons out of before i pinch em and keep em for backup...i have seen alot of pros that run these motors go trough the same thing...like stated before...you have to run this thing at almost 300 degrees to have power u can get from a 150 nova at 230...i really think the heat is what kills these things...i dont care who says different

Thanks mate!

I've seen it many times with OS. RB and Nova Rossi had problems as well. It looks like something that Reedy needs to addrress. I have a Reedy engine myself. Best Of luck with what ever you choose.

Please no personal attacks

You don't car but.....

That's weird cause i run my engine at 190-210 and she is perfect maybe you need to learn how to tune instead of leaning the piss out of your engine. 300 deg is crazy.

I bought it last july. 3 gallons on it.

I make good power at 190-210. Sounds like you cooked it cause you wanted more mojo.


will i buy this engine again.... Prolly not.:lol:

well you are right about one thing...i do lean the piss out of it...why???....cuz if i dont it wont even get out of its own way...its no secret that these motors dont start making power till 260...i can only imagine what one of these does at 200...lol...i dont know how u can compete at 200 degrees with anything else on the market...my tuning skills are perfectly fine and my motor never saw past 270 but even 270 is way to hot for me...but at 240 it was dead...i mean DEAD...like i said its no secret these things run hot to make power...i have yet to see one do anything under 260 degrees...honestly this engine just has nothing going for it....if you like engines with absolutely no top end, where the ramp in the crank falls out, runs hot, and has cheap bearings then this is one for you!!!...lol...but ill cut my losses now and move on

Has anyone run their motor with only a half gallon on it. I was planning on running the other half a gallon at a race that was canceled due to rain. Just curious to what issues I will run in to.

The stock Reedy won a lot of races here last year. Beating all comers. It beat one guy that was top 25 at the worlds for a championship. So it's not as bad as you said. There is more to the story for sure that we will never know. And "Now for the rest of the story........"

I run an Alpha S852, but I have 3 friends that run Reedys and I'm sorry but you are talking through your hole.
The Reedys run really well and produce plenty of power at 230. All three can get 12 minutes easily and none of them lack pace. All but one have 3 gallons on the motor and they are just hitting the sweet spot.

Obviously the Reedy ain't for you, but to tear it to bits because you fried it is hardly fair.

I wouldn't buy a Reedy because it's too expensive for my budget and the Alpha is a mega motor for any money, never mind the pittance they ask for it, but I wouldn't hesitate to run one if someone offered me one for free :D

I have to completely agree with this statement.

I have kept my Reedy's as my club race motors, and as a back up motor for my Alpha motor is something goes wrong. I qualed 5th this past weekend with one since i had a carb issue, and i was running against speeds and Ninja's. I temped at 225 each qual, so saying it has to be hot just is not 100% true.

I have learned over my almost year of running the Reedy, it is a great motor, but if the tune is off on the bottom, there is just nothing you can do to make it feel like it has any top. Most people think lean the bottom, but that is the problem. I tune almost all the non-pro drivers Reedy's in Vegas, and every time, i have to richen the bottom 5+ hours before i touch the top. If you have a problem with the Reedy, richen the bottom a minimum of 3 hours then lean the top 1 hour. The change is HUGE!!!

i will agree a 100% that these motors like rich bottoms but thats about all thats correct....if you guys say this motor is fast enough at 230 to compete then i dont know what your competing against???.....:confused:
To say this motor rips or has good top end is just wrong...its no secret that the motor has so much bottom u have to gear up...and its no secret its gotta run hot to produce any real power...these are things that have even been stated by top pro's in this thread...i have 2 local Team A pro drivers in my area that i speak to regularly and both have gone trough motors and stop running them...they both had run them at 260-270 to make power and be able to keep up with other mills...these are guys that have been racing for 10 years so im pretty sure they know what they are doing...like i said before i honestly think its the heat that kills these motors...there is no way this motor will keep up with any motor in its price range while u run it in the lower 200's...any ninja, rb, or nova will blow it away...at the end of the day they have some issues to figure out...and p.s. why do you think the pro guys dont run these things stock???

This is not going anywhere and it pointless. You were just looking for a place to vent. Are you done now? This isn't a battle anyone will win. I think enough has been said. Run what ever you want and enjoy it. Best of Luck with the your next choice.

The problem is that you tune by temp. You can't really tune by temp and be expected to have a perfect engine from one week to the next. 300F........you gotta be taking the piss mate. I (my pitman) can hold the head of my engine for a fair few seconds comfortably and not get burnt. Does it like a rich bottom.....ummm once you've got past the 1st gallon it really doesn't. Lots of punch for sure and gearing up to tame it can only be a good thing in my book. You'd get better run time that way. Has to run hot to get power, lies. I can easily keep up with the RB's, Nova's, Sirio's etc etc and it comes off a lot cooler than the C6 i used to use. This thing isn't going to over take down the straight but it hangs on. Pro's not running them stock... which pro runs a stock engine on any company???? If you wanted to run Speed internals i've been told that a fair bit of material has to be taken out of casing to do it so hardly worth the effort. The new Reedys the AE guys have (silver head) are mega powerful. Seriously as soon as this 'team' engine comes out i won't be hesitating to get one.

Ok so I got my engine today and I'm getting the clutch put on it and things just arent fitting just right. I'm using the stock 8ight 2.0 clutch. Can someone with this engine in their 8ight let me know if the stock clutch will work or what?

Nevermind, had to use the losi collet not the one that came with the engine

yep yep:nod:

Yep no bs my reedy doesn't need to run hot for power. Hehe it's true !

well i went from rb to reedy, rb is just to dam expensive now, but my c6 still kickin after 4 gallons, anyways anyone know the stock settings for low and high needles , wheni got mine, it seems to lean when i started it, if anyone knows a good starting point please let me know please

skidoos,
Try 2 1/2 on the top and 3 1/4 on the bottom

Chuck

My out of box setings :

first engine - HSN 3,25 , LSN 4,15
second engine - HSN 3,25 , LSN 3,15

There was a guy on here with a good base setting. Would advise not goin off a flush setting. Tried that and that was way off. I would start 3.75 top and bottom and adjust from there.

ok thanx guys, got an idea at least , its funny the manual doesnt give u a startin point, anyone have eperience with this motor against an rb c6 , bc as of now i own both of them

Skidoos check your PM's.

Also thought this might be useful for some.

Brandon Melton
Yeah sure thing, you are right, it's often the small stuff and even the simple things can get a engine to run great.

I'll go more in depth how I tune the motor, there are all different ways of how people break it in. This is how I have personally broke in my Reedy engines, and they all tune well and perform for a long period.
-always preheat before starting it up for the first time
-wrap the head with something like foam, foil, a sock or something to retain heat.
-idle just ONE tank through the engine (just to oil and seat the parts). LET COOL after first tank
-PRE HEAT engine again-on the second tank I am running the engine on the ground, with the HSN a little rich for lubrication but lean enough to get temps up to around 240. Run the whole tank out using idle to 1/2 throttle bursts. let cool again
-Keep doing this for 3 tanks, then for tanks 5-8 I keep it at the same HSN setting but now I am making about 100ft pulls of wide open throttle (temps still staying around 240).
-after 8 tanks I put a race tune on it and try to kick some butt
-biggest thing is making sure the engine cools after each tank, and then preheating it before the next start up. I usually preheat the engine for the first 1/2 gallon.

TUNING

I will say that on all 5 engines I have ran, I have never used a carb or back plate sealant, and have never had an air leak or funny tuning. Some people swear by sealing an engine but I have had good success without doing it.

I actually prefer to tune from the bottom end first, and can usually get it really close on the box before hitting the track. Here's how I go about a tune when I get to the track.

1.) Start engine and rev gently for about 2 minutes to get some heat into the engine, always tune the engine when up to close operating temp.
2.) I clear the engine out when a couple solid (not death revving) revs then listen to how it comes down to idle, wait about 5 seconds and hit the throttle.
3.) I look for a steady smoke trail and a steady clean pull from the bottom end. You don't want heavy smoke at first tapering into a faint trail. The engine shouldn't hesitate with a rich or lean bog. Should have a crisp sound with steady smoke.
4.) If the engine blows lots of smoke and hesistates to start pulling, lean the bottom end until you get what’s described above. If the engine doesn't blow smoke and stutters to accelerate, richen the LSN until the desired setting.
5.) A KEY indicator of having a close tune on the LSN is listening to the engine come from a rev back to idle. With the proper glow plug and a properly tuned LSN, the engine should almost immeditaly achieve idle speed after a rev on the starter box or on the track. If the idle hangs up, then slowly comes back to idle in "steps" you are too rich on the LSN, probably noticing a lot of smoke as described above. If the engine tends to run on and maintain a high pace without ever coming back down, the LSN is too lean. ALL THIS IS ASSUMING THE IDLE GAP IS SET CORRECTLY (which is around .6-.7mm.)
6.) Once the LSN is where I want it, I will tune the HSN on the track. Assuming climate hasn't changed dramatically since the last time I raced, this is usually only 1 hr. either leaning or richening for optimal tune. If it's the first time with a new engine, it may take a couple adjustments to hit correctly. A proper tune on the HSN should pull hard until the end of the longest straight, but never totally run out of smoke or "run on" at the end of the straight. If you have properly set the LSN and the engine runs on after long straights, the HSN is too lean. If you see a little smoke, and it doesn't run on, you are very close.
7.) After break in, if the engine runs and performs well, and all driving characteristics are as they should be, I don't pay attention to temps anymore. If you have it tuned properly, the temps will fall where they should. You will learn to trust your tune. I could just about tell you within 5 degrees what it would be before a pit guy checked it, LOL.
8.) After setting the HSN on the track, I will then just double check the LSN sound and response after a tank run before shutting it off after it's at full operating temp. Make any minor (if needed) adjustments, and then it's usually good for the rest of the day, unless the mains go into night fall.

ok got everything, on my 6 tanks 4 more to go before i race tune it, i give u my feed back versus my c6

You might be able to gear up 1 tooth on the clutch bell as well.

i heard about this, why is that?