Mugen JX21
#589
I would honestly buy a 2060 or the ninja equivelant to the 2060. The Losi RE10 (copy of the 2060) worked good, but it really killed the fuel mileage. I went from 7 minutes with Losi pipe to 10+ with the 2060.
This was confirmed on the dyno at EB mods. We dynoed both pipes back to back. The Losi pipe made more midrange, but the engine ran warmer and needed to be richer to achieve that power. If we leaned it out, the engine would ping at high RPM and run too hot. The 2060 was a flatter torque band, but ran leaner and cooler.
Moral of story... use the OS/Ninja pipe. Ya, it's more money, but you get what you pay for.
I know Joe Alessi approves.
This was confirmed on the dyno at EB mods. We dynoed both pipes back to back. The Losi pipe made more midrange, but the engine ran warmer and needed to be richer to achieve that power. If we leaned it out, the engine would ping at high RPM and run too hot. The 2060 was a flatter torque band, but ran leaner and cooler.
Moral of story... use the OS/Ninja pipe. Ya, it's more money, but you get what you pay for.

I know Joe Alessi approves.
#590
they SAY the re 10 is a copy..but i dont think so...the re11 looks almost identical to the 2050..but the re10 and 2060 dont...the 2060 and the ninja 2042 look identical...
but did you guys test the 2050 vs the re11?
but did you guys test the 2050 vs the re11?
#593
#596
It'll work... just the 2060 is the better choice for runtime.. If you liked it on your V spec im sure u'll like on the ninja.
#597
Are there any timing differences between the JX and the VSpec cranks?
Has anyone used a JX crank in a VSpec yet?
The crank pin on my VSpec is getting close to worn out after 7+ gallons, but the piston/sleeve is still in awesome shape and I want to get a little more runtime out of it before I retire it...
Has anyone used a JX crank in a VSpec yet?
The crank pin on my VSpec is getting close to worn out after 7+ gallons, but the piston/sleeve is still in awesome shape and I want to get a little more runtime out of it before I retire it...
#598
I have an os speed wc II engi e and Joe at lucky 7 guided me to the
ufen 2042 pipe and L shaped header. I have this engine in a 8t 2.0 and what a difference the pipe and header made. I was using a 063 pipe before. The 2042 is a great pipe and Joe at lucky 7 is very helpful. Give him a call helltake the time with you. He's the jp .... With the mughe avitar in this thread. Thanks again Joe.
ufen 2042 pipe and L shaped header. I have this engine in a 8t 2.0 and what a difference the pipe and header made. I was using a 063 pipe before. The 2042 is a great pipe and Joe at lucky 7 is very helpful. Give him a call helltake the time with you. He's the jp .... With the mughe avitar in this thread. Thanks again Joe.
#599
i'm not an os fan, seen too many v-specs fail early in their life span. i am however looking at getting one of these soon, here is what i have heard so far:
-special crank coating will make crank pin last "forever"
-28 case is stronger than v-spec "brittle" case, will also last "forever"
-crank is identical to speed crank but without the counter weights
-rebuild kits are under $150 (5 race gallons would be more than enough for me, even with a squeeze around 4-5 gallons)
if any or all of these are true i think this will be my choice. i like a smooth motor from bottom to mid, good mid and crazy top. my jammin is just too much bottom and mid and descent top right now even with the softest of clutch setups with teflon shoes (in a truggy). if what i have heard is entirely true this will be the last motor series i buy, i swore to stay away from os motors but this seems to be some of their best work.
i prefer to run cold/medium plugs, will this be alright in this motor? any minor issues i should address early on besides sealing and inspecting pre break-in?
-special crank coating will make crank pin last "forever"
-28 case is stronger than v-spec "brittle" case, will also last "forever"
-crank is identical to speed crank but without the counter weights
-rebuild kits are under $150 (5 race gallons would be more than enough for me, even with a squeeze around 4-5 gallons)
if any or all of these are true i think this will be my choice. i like a smooth motor from bottom to mid, good mid and crazy top. my jammin is just too much bottom and mid and descent top right now even with the softest of clutch setups with teflon shoes (in a truggy). if what i have heard is entirely true this will be the last motor series i buy, i swore to stay away from os motors but this seems to be some of their best work.
i prefer to run cold/medium plugs, will this be alright in this motor? any minor issues i should address early on besides sealing and inspecting pre break-in?
#600
i'm not an os fan, seen too many v-specs fail early in their life span. i am however looking at getting one of these soon, here is what i have heard so far:
-special crank coating will make crank pin last "forever"
-28 case is stronger than v-spec "brittle" case, will also last "forever"
-crank is identical to speed crank but without the counter weights
-rebuild kits are under $150 (5 race gallons would be more than enough for me, even with a squeeze around 4-5 gallons)
if any or all of these are true i think this will be my choice. i like a smooth motor from bottom to mid, good mid and crazy top. my jammin is just too much bottom and mid and descent top right now even with the softest of clutch setups with teflon shoes (in a truggy). if what i have heard is entirely true this will be the last motor series i buy, i swore to stay away from os motors but this seems to be some of their best work.
i prefer to run cold/medium plugs, will this be alright in this motor? any minor issues i should address early on besides sealing and inspecting pre break-in?
-special crank coating will make crank pin last "forever"
-28 case is stronger than v-spec "brittle" case, will also last "forever"
-crank is identical to speed crank but without the counter weights
-rebuild kits are under $150 (5 race gallons would be more than enough for me, even with a squeeze around 4-5 gallons)
if any or all of these are true i think this will be my choice. i like a smooth motor from bottom to mid, good mid and crazy top. my jammin is just too much bottom and mid and descent top right now even with the softest of clutch setups with teflon shoes (in a truggy). if what i have heard is entirely true this will be the last motor series i buy, i swore to stay away from os motors but this seems to be some of their best work.
i prefer to run cold/medium plugs, will this be alright in this motor? any minor issues i should address early on besides sealing and inspecting pre break-in?
the JX has a MUCH better case then the standard V spec or Speed engines.
The crank is NOT a speed crank, but it is the best OS crank design yet.
My last JX i got 8 race gallons without failure, and it was time to rebuild.
You can run a p6-p5 if your an excellent tuner, but i would recommend a p4.
I would replace stock bearings with TKO ceramics before break-in..
Hope this helps Good Luck!




you know my $hit rips 