I should be getting my engine today . If i get enough fuel through it i will race it at a club race Saturday . I will try the 053 & possibly the 007 pipe then post the results . I really haven't found anything i like the 007 pipe on , it just runs out of power too soon . I will have to wait a month or so to get the r2 pipe . I run byrons 30/9 as it's pretty much the only fuel i can get local . BTW the main reason i got this engine was because customer service . I had a question about my z01 b on here & Steve got in touch himself & answered all questions . That's customer service at it's best .

Plus you know how long it took for that Pipe to come out right!!! Sheesh I have been waiting forever and still now broke and cant get it haha.:tire::tire:

Got my new engine today ! Just went through the first 6 tanks . I turned the idle up a tad because of rich bottom end , it started right up after preheating & went perfect . I do believe i will be pleased with this engine . Can't wait to get it on the track Saturday . BTW if anyone is thinking of this engine tower hobbies is offering a free igniter & with the $ 25.00 discount code . That's like getting the engine for $ 150.00 , what a steal !

YOu will love this mill. Break it in exactly like it says.

What are you running for pipe and clutch setup?

Gonna try dynamite 053 this weekend . Don't have the extra cash to get the r2 yet . LOL I also have several other pipes if the dyn . doesn't work out . Clutch as of now is vp racing alum. shoes with 1.0 springs , Byrons 30/9 fuel . I'm gonna try 97t plugs because the temp here in Ga . is hovering around 100 degrees . The engine seems like it's gonna be a runner .

Try the 87T plugs when you can.

Go with 2 1.1mm and 1 1.0 spring. You will be very happy ;)
Good luck with your new mill! There are plenty of people on here (including myself) who are willing to help if you have issues!

I would suggest that you move your idle back to the 1mm gap and lean out your bottom. Like you stated, it was rich on the bottom. Lean out a little to keep running and get temps up for good break-in. Look through this thread and you will find some good advice on engine tips. I run mine in truggy and it screams. I know that is a widely used term, but my engine is dialed.

***Your final needle settings may freak you out a little. The carb needles are turned in more than the average carb. Do not try to tune it based on some temp. Tune it on performance and trail of smoke.***

I agree on tuning with smoke, but after along conversation with steve today, these ngones need to stay between 230-240 to be happy and live a long life. A temp gun should be used to check settings. Not live by

I agree totally. In my experience, if you tune by performance and smoke, your engine will most likely be at a safe temp for engine life. Also, check your glow plug. If its all charred, it's more than likely running lean. I use "old school" method. I spit on the head and if it burns off rapidly or explodes off, it likely too lean. Cleaner way is to use a small water droplet.

Dlewis,

I had a friend give me a can of Kal-gard de-greaser and prep shine. Is this stuff any good? Is the de-greaser safe on plastics and especially andonized parts? Is it better than simple green?

I'll tell you what the Kal Gaurd products are great, make sure u have an air compressor to use to blow excess de greaser off then hit with prep n shine and BAM looks new. I used the de greaser and forgot about the prep n shine still looked new and ran two races without cleaning my buggy, great stuff!

I really came on here to ask if anyone has ever tried a modded SS? Nothing major little port and crank shaving?

Andy

Thanks. Do you need to hit it with a light spray of water first?

Well I did to be honest, and a BLAST of water and then very thuroly (sry bad spelling), hit it with compressed air and the degreaser stays water goes and it looks good, WD-40 almost gives a cheaper fake look, the Kal-Gaurd makes it look factory clean.

Andy

Kalgard blows simplegreen out of the water. It is amazing. I like to spray a quick coat if prep n shine each day on a clean car to build up a coat so nothing ever sticks

If you have any questions about any of the products give me a PM

Well I got my engine and it looks good, but the engine was near FULL of strait castor oil (it is clear). I attempted to start it, and it just kept hydo-locking. The carb too was full of oil.

I tore it all down (except the crank and bearings) cleaned it, assembled it using a light coating of 20/50 oil, sealed the back cover with Lucky 7, sealed the carb up, lubed the threads and o-rings in the carb, and now it is running pretty good and I have my 6 tanks thru it.

My only concern is the carb settings, I am only about 3/4 a turn on the bottom and I'm out 2 turns on the top, and running about 191 deg with the head wrapped with a rag.

It is severely rich, especially on bottom. Just concerned with how close I am to bottoming out the screw.

Tried calling the customer support to just double check the settings (they only have the bottom end and top end settings, no mid or idle gap setings), but all you get is Hobbico.

Anyone know how to get in touch with the people from Odonnell?