NW - total shims should equal .028-.030"

Chambers - any day.. sent them a bunch last week.

Had the same problem with the exact same engine at an RCP race a few weeks back. I thought I was chasing a tune, because it had rained and the temps dropped almost 30 deg since the start of the race. Turns out I had an air leak where the carb fits into the crankcase. I assume the internal seals wear a little over time, but Chad can tell you better than I can. Put a thin bead of RTV on the crankcase, put the carb back in (put the engine in the car so I could get the carb position right) let it cure 24 hours. Smooth like butter now.

You may need to richen the bottom1/4 to 1/2 turn and lean the top. I was having a similiar issue and that fixed it for me. I just kept richening the bottom until my bottom stayed consistent through a 5 min qualifier. Stillt a crisp as ever.

All in all I just may have compensated for a small airleak as cjtamu discussed

Got to run my new FM .21 yesterday. After cruising around for 4 or 5 tanks, starting to tune to race tune. Once tuned I had a LARGE smile on my face. Lots of bottom and top is unreal! Running 6 min quals, had 1/2 tank of fuel left ....Was going to pit at 10 minutes in the main and see how we looked, but unfortuanltly I lost a clutch bell about 8 minutes into the a main run. Can't wait to get this motor outdoors on a big track!!!!
Thanks Trinity !!

Hey guys,

I have a 1.0 .24 with approx 3-4 gal on it. I took it apart after a horrible day of racing (no motor issues) and noticed that the rod has a substantial amount of play where it connects to the crank. After removing it I inspected it and there is practically no brass bushing left. Is this normal to have to replace the rod so soon?? I also noticed a ton of carbon buildup on the top of the piston.. Oh yeah, I also had some throttle servo problems (losi LOL) and while trying to figure that out I noticed that the carb slide was not real smooth. It was really notchy at WOT which I now believe is what was causing the throttle problem (this time). I took it apart and cleaned everything up but does anyone else have the same problems?

Even after all this I LOVE THIS MOTOR.

Dhopkins -

1) premature wear on the rods come usually from to fast of break in.. if broke in correctly, we have been getting 6-8 gallons on a engine. Also what fuel are you using?

2) do you use a return spring. we have found out if you use a heavy return spring and its not set up correctly. it will pull the carb to one side and wear a groove in the barrel. I use a rubber band but it is old and has just enough tention to close the carb..

Chad,

Thanks for the quick reply. Now that's service.

I use Nitrotane 30%.

I use a rubber band return spring.

I am going to attempt to PM you with more info on the motor if that's OK.

Dan

Well I decided to give the Trinity's a try for outdoor this season. Got 2 of the last 4 amain had left. Any tips on if this engine really needs a break in or not. I know they say it's pre run but I should still do some slow break in tanks correct?

For the best longevity I would recommend two tanks on the box heat cycling then around 3 tanks varying the throttle and preheat at least for the first gallon. Do all of that and you'll have a screamer that should last 7-8 gallons.

Im debating between the extech .21 or the jpx .21 with the "bat pipe"
Which did you like better? both are $229 engines...going in st-rr

I havn't had a chance to run my bat pipe on my ET engine. I have run it on a JPX .21 in an X2 CRT. This was on a mid to large size track ( MotoRama ) and the engine has maybe a Gal on it so far. The bottom felt good, not too snappy but strong. The mid range was insane! The pipe really felt like it was holding the engine back, on top though. Now, this may be due more to me needing to break in the engine...but it just didn't feel right on top. I will give it more time though. My local track is supposed to be opening this w/end. I will say this, if you decide to try the 2013 exhaust, both engines are animals. I run weekly on a mid size track and can avg 8 mins of runtime.
As for the ET, while I loved the way mine felt with the 13, I eventually settled on the 2057. Slightly softer on the bottom, slightly more RPM range on top, and I could avg 9:15 easily. I also plan to try the bat pipe, ie- 2056-, on the ET and will post later.

Well out of the 2 engines which wuold you make your back up?? Thats all i need to know and then i will buy

I have more experience with the ETs, so I would say them. I am planning on running weekly with buggy, and I will very soon be ordering two new ETs for that. I will run my X2 only on occasion and the JPX is gonna stay in it, for now. If I have issues with it or wear it out, etc...I plan to get an ET .24 for the X2 Plus, you have a much more active thread here for answers and excellent customer service through Chad

i will get the .24 thanks!!!! What dynamite pipe though?

I don't know anything about the JPX.

I will say I have run Rb's and Go Motors..Hands down the ET .24 pre-run is the best motor I have ever had...Better than my C6 or ws7III or my go .25 race.