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How are you breaking it in Brian?
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If you do a search of this thread for LSN or HSN you should get enough info to knwo where folks run the engine. Only slightly rich from those is where you need to be on the LSN. I'll let you do the research. Everyone wil have a slightly differente opinion as factory settings are still a mistery to everyone.
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Just skimming through here it looks like someone might need a bit of help on their needle settings. My personal experience with the GRP engines/carbs is that you can only set the idle speed screw and have it close to where it needs to be before you fire the engine up. I start my engines with the idle screw in from flush by .7mm (.030"). Some of my engines the bottom needle is out a lot, others it's flush with the chrome part on the barrell, same thing with the main needle also.
Initial tuning I fire engine up on the box, warm it up, tune the bottom needle until it idles consistently, I.E. the idle speed doesn't rise or fall after you rev and clean the engine out some. If idle falls, bottom is too righ, if it rises and goes a little irratic, it's too lean. Once bottom is set I tune top/main needle on the street or track. Then after 1-2 tanks I will set car on box again and check/listen to the idle speed and "tweak" bottom and idle screws if necessary. |
Originally Posted by Jesse Robbers
(Post 5157183)
Just skimming through here it looks like someone might need a bit of help on their needle settings. My personal experience with the GRP engines/carbs is that you can only set the idle speed screw and have it close to where it needs to be before you fire the engine up. I start my engines with the idle screw in from flush by .7mm (.030"). Some of my engines the bottom needle is out a lot, others it's flush with the chrome part on the barrell, same thing with the main needle also.
Initial tuning I fire engine up on the box, warm it up, tune the bottom needle until it idles consistently, I.E. the idle speed doesn't rise or fall after you rev and clean the engine out some. If idle falls, bottom is too righ, if it rises and goes a little irratic, it's too lean. Once bottom is set I tune top/main needle on the street or track. Then after 1-2 tanks I will set car on box again and check/listen to the idle speed and "tweak" bottom and idle screws if necessary. thats pretty close how i do mine. one thing tho i cant understand is my idle isnt irratic but when its idleing it raises rpm a little then drops back down. ive richend it with no success so i left it |
TYpes?
Hi All
I am looking at getting one of these motors over xmas and was wondering what most people are running - Buggy or Rally Also is the silver headed sport engine just the buggy spec with the std plug button? Currently i use either RBws7 or OS VZB depending on the track so was looking at which engine would be similer to these in performance Many Thanks Lunie |
Originally Posted by s porter
(Post 5157139)
How are you breaking it in Brian?
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will os turbo plugs work on these engines? ive heard both. please only answer if you have personal experience
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Yes. I run the P3 in mine and I know two other guys who do. None of us have had any problems.
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
(Post 5171926)
will os turbo plugs work on these engines? ive heard both. please only answer if you have personal experience
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i personally used the os p3 in my grp when i ran it, i found the plugs to be a little more reliable then the stock plugs
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this question might have already been covered in the thread already (sorry if it has) i currently have a .21 buggy engine in my truggy, finding that i don't have enough low down power to punch out of the corners and i have had an opportunity to get a .28 at a reasonable price, so i was wondering if anyone knows what the run time is like with these. i know of another brand i can get that is a .25 6 port that i can get 10mins out of. so any help on this subject would be helpful.
cheers |
10 mins is pretty hard to get with a .28, what pipe combination are you running with your .21? i found with a ttr 2035 and os p3 plug and 7mm restrictor the grp had plenty of low end power for the truggy, the 2053 that came in the promo kit didnt seem to have the bottom end power, i dont think any of the factory drivers run the 28 in there truggies
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i run the 2053 in my .21 and a 6mm restrictor and get 11-12mins a tank, but im running a 14 tooth clutch bell and a 46 spur, even with a 13 on there i have people going past with 14's and .25 engines (low down i mean). but yeah i want to keep that 10+ run time.
I was thinking that with something like a .28 i could maybe restrict the throttle to say 70% and still have all that power on tap while never having to use all 100%. |
in a truggy you should be running a 13tooth, try the 13tooth and 7mm restrictor and that should help with the power, the 14 is for top end, it will hurt the low end especially in a heavy truggy
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Originally Posted by T0nke
(Post 5172517)
this question might have already been covered in the thread already (sorry if it has) i currently have a .21 buggy engine in my truggy, finding that i don't have enough low down power to punch out of the corners and i have had an opportunity to get a .28 at a reasonable price, so i was wondering if anyone knows what the run time is like with these. i know of another brand i can get that is a .25 6 port that i can get 10mins out of. so any help on this subject would be helpful.
cheers I don't think you need a .28, just a .21 with a good bottom end. v-spec, new ninja, orion crf, plus4 etc, hell, even the go 5 ports. |
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