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Originally Posted by MMor101
(Post 7315001)
I purchased a non GX 3 port race last season and I have been having troubles with the low end since. When the motor heats up, the bottom end gets real soft almost like a broken clutch spring. I've replaced the whole clutch setup, sealed the whole motor, and even put in new carb orings! Today I borrowed a friends Nova carb and the bottom end got much better but still get soft at the end of the tank on the track. I KNOW the engine is tuned correctly. I even had Ed Bridges from EB Mods tune the motor and it still eventually got soft on the bottom. I've checked tank pressure and replaced all the lines. What's the deal? This is a pretty discouraging first time experience with GO Engines.
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can i still use a crankcase eventhough it has a scratch inside of it? the scratch is located to where the the piston rotates, idont know if it will ruin the bottom part of the conrod.im thinking of sanding the scratch to make it smooth again.
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Originally Posted by jeremiah23
(Post 7316982)
can i still use a crankcase eventhough it has a scratch inside of it? the scratch is located to where the the piston rotates, idont know if it will ruin the bottom part of the conrod.im thinking of sanding the scratch to make it smooth again.
Rex |
Originally Posted by chrisjohns
(Post 7316827)
What pipe is recomended for the go 7 port being run in a truggy? Thanks
Rex |
Originally Posted by 22Racer
(Post 7315567)
Your motor may have the long low speed needle which will tune differently.
Rex |
Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 7316944)
what brand of clutch are you using.... sounds to me like its possibly your clutch fading
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
(Post 7316537)
grizz, did you put in the hsn/lsn from massive mods? If so what is the difference? easier to tune? also the other turbo head,the one that mark modded. The needles are for the mg-66.
The modded head button seemed to give the 3R more snap and a crisper bottom end, plus a little more on top too (could be my imagination ;)) but it's running stronger than before. No noticable increase in economy that I can tell, but we are running in a dust bowl at present with humid changable weather, so it's hard to tell on economy. The head button would be a good addition to the MG66 Matt.
Originally Posted by chrisjohns
(Post 7316827)
What pipe is recomended for the go 7 port being run in a truggy? Thanks
GO EFRA 2072 for sure. We have guys running the 7 Port with 2072 in their Mugen MBX6 truggies here, and they are very strong. Just out of interest, we are selling quite a few 2072 pipes to the guys running the new orange headed Alpha motors here. It It improves the performance of the motors markedly over other pipes they have been using, and still gives great economy. |
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 7318096)
GO EFRA 2072 for sure. We have guys running the 7 Port with 2072 in their Mugen MBX6 truggies here, and they are very strong.
Just out of interest, we are selling quite a few 2072 pipes to the guys running the new orange headed Alpha motors here. It It improves the performance of the motors markedly over other pipes they have been using, and still gives great economy. |
Go place 7º at sudamericano 2010...
congratulations concha http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/sudamer.jpg |
Originally Posted by Poinas2
(Post 7321343)
I think the Alpha 2081 is better pipe on the S852 than 2072 both in terms of power and economy. Though the 2072 might be better match on the T850 and works very well for the F850 as well. Where I see the most difference is definitely top-end. Where the 2072 starts to choke the 2081 still goes on. Anyway now that the quality issues on the pipe has been solved it's definitely something to look for in you are after a good quality overall pipe.
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grizz,do you know off of the top of your head the shim stack that came on the mg-66? also on your xray buggy how are you replacing the drive pins? [center and wheels]and will heating them help them come out easier?:cry:
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
(Post 7323341)
grizz,do you know off of the top of your head the shim stack that came on the mg-66? also on your xray buggy how are you replacing the drive pins? [center and wheels]and will heating them help them come out easier?:cry:
I use the Hudy drive pin removal tool for the X-Ray drive pins: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...placement-Tool Unless you know someone who is a dab hand with a lathe, and can knock up something similar, it's the best if not the only way !! Those pins will not come out easily. All you normally end up doing is splitting or shattering the pin trying any other method. |
thank you grizz. I just tried my trusty chain link removal tool that I made to do the jammin pins. I feel like I sprained my muscles in my forarm holding 2 wrenches trying to crank the pin out. said fck it and just bought the hudy one. I have been skating for years with old rusty!:lol: Thats what happens when you try to be a cheap ass!!!!!!!!!!!!:cry::rolleyes::lol::lol::lol:
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 7322863)
Cool. That pipe hasn't become available here yet to my knowledge. Sounds good. I might have to try one on my GO's ;). I am told it has a shorter header, which would account for the increased top end. What is the bottom end like compared to the 2072 ?
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Get the hudy tool matt...I broke my first few pins trying to replace them while waiting for my hudy tool to arrive.with the proper tool takes 20 seconds..
and I'd also like to hear how the 2081 pipe runs on the MG66..my 2072 is looking a bit battered and I had to fabricate a new stinger pipe after I snapped mine off.so before I buy a new 2072..... |
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