problem with tuning
 

Is this a new engine that you are breaking in?

Already broken in, was purchased by a racer that has broken in as per manufacture instructions, what makes you say that? u reckon he hasn't completely broken it in?

Idk. Try richening the top 1 hour. To me it sounds lean on the top. Red’s engines can be finicky.

Sounds like you did follow the JQ video about tuning?
I read 0.5 idle gap and then tune the LSN to the right idle. Nope, that is not the way.

what is the way?

Find the right tuning for the LSN and HSN and correct the idle when needed, the idle is basically the last one to set.

That JQ instruction is based on a certain OS carb but you have a REDS engine that is different. Beside that, the JQ instruction of a 0.5mm gap and tune the LSN from there does sometimes also not work on the OS carb, tolerances, different fuels and weather conditions has a lot of influence on the final tuning.

Tried several different methods, car will run great when driving , its just the idle that fluctuates and stalls all the time...

In the vid you open the throttle by hand so the servo is not powered, Does it also happen when you switch on the radio and receiver?

And did you try a fresh glowplug?

Hey,
Yea tried several glow plugs and does same via remote.

Hello boomtheroom,

You might try to check if the tank is not leaking. You need to take out the tank from the car, empty the tank, block the fuel outlet, put a long Fuel Line on the Pressure Inlet. Then submerge the Tank into a bucket of water, then blow the Pressure Line. If the tank is not properly sealed You could see bubbles coming out. Usually from the Lid Seal.

Cheers.. :)

QUOTE=boomtheroom;16142131]Hey,
Yea tried several glow plugs and does same via remote.[/QUOTE]

i suspect the brand of fuel you are using is the problem. Switching brands or nitro contend or oil lube contend will requires you to re tune. Use fuel with 14-18% oil lube to start and choose you nitro % 30% is more than enough. set carb back to factory settings and break in again and tune again.

If it was me I'd ignore the oil advice from monster guy and richen the lo needle a tad. His advice is always bogus.

Please ignore anything 1995 Monster T says. His only 5 braincells only drink oil, the high % stuff to.
Mods still refuse to boot him so sorry about that aswell.

heres a running video

Too lean on the LSN, when giving throttle with a long idle you hear a hickup.

yeah... but thats the only way i can stop it from dyeing on idle... also the long hanging before dropping to idle is impossible to adjust out..

Do you have another engine from which you can try the carburettor?

Yep Several Rb, GO, Os...

The problem is the fuel. The engine was broke in with low oil lube 10% or less. and you switch brands 12% and still are using less oil lube.. The engine will idle erratic like that as the fuel is for racing not back yard bashing. Buy fuel with 14-18% oil lube and or a plug with a idle bar? The engine is now running lean loss of compression from the fuel oil lube and poor tuning.

Yea ok. You definitely don’t know what you’re talking about. First off there’s not a turbo plug in the world that has an idle bar. Second he has a race engine which is something you are clueless about. Third stop with the oil nonsense because it’s very bad advice. Also how do you know he isn’t gonna race this engine or are you that narcissistic that you just don’t care and it’s your way or the highway. Just because he’s running it in his backyard doesn’t mean he’s just gonna bash it and even so so what the engine isn’t designed to run gobs of oil. Let’s see your nitro engine collection.

Your uneducated advice is getting worse.... what an absolute ballbag.

boomtheroom PLEASE IGNORE THIS!!!!!!!!!!!

@mods - time to sort this guy out.........

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e63f3b7210.jpg

:lol:

Probably because his advice is some BS he had Chat GPT or some other AI create....

All my information is FACT! not BS like all you other bozos keep posting. Breaking in an Engine with low oil lube and the switching oil content again can cause poor engine performance like this.

Correction: your fact! Not the from all others on this forum.

Breaking in an engine only requires 12% oil and that’s not even required for the full break in of the engine.

For REDS motors,TS4 or P4 plug helps with idle. You can't set a carb to a specific idle gap and have it work all the time. The part in the JQ video about balancing the carb is what you are after. Make sure the motor is at least 200* before you start playing with the needles. Sounds like you are fat on the bottom and the idle is high. If you know how to measure squish clearance, check to make sure you are 0.60mm or higher. If not add a shim. Factory setting for the carb are 3 turns opened from the
fully closed position for the HSN and 3 1/2 turns opened from the fully closed position for the LSN. Idle gap of 0.5 is approximate, but will set it self as you tune the motor.

So i got it to idle, seams like its lean on bottom then bogs then raises, then dies all on its own, replaced front bearing as suggested by JQ after showing him my video, maybe try p4 plug? currently running T97 had a t3 same resuly

Ok think i got it... what you all think?

definitely sounds healthier....what did you adjust?

Replaced front bearing, then closed idle and leaned bottom end

looks and sounds good. You could try softer clutch springs to put more load on engine Sonner? whatever you do don't mess with the low needle only the high open it if you have too. never lean it out with low % oil lube fuel. I bet the lean oil % wrecked the front bearing. you would never had to replace it with e more % oil lube. Good smoke trail ! the way to check front bearing for leaks is an oil trail under the flywheel.

Funny, I run 9 to10% oil and never had a failing front bearing.

"Good smoke trail" So, You just told us hes using more than enough oil in professional fuel. thanks

" I bet the lean oil % wrecked the front bearing" Wrong. I've had bad bearings from new... did they not use enough oil when machining the cooling head to cause the bad bearing?

Failing front bearing can be anything like a bad quality (as mentioned), dirt (common issue with offroad), unbalance on the clutch or a too tight gear mesh. Also a binding in the whole drivetrain or a too heavy gearing can put huge sideway loads on the front bearing.

Sounds good but bear in mind that you don't have space in your yard for proper testing. The tuning changes as the engine gets to working temperature (which varies between different engines). The tuning should be reliable to hold for at least 15 min with 1 refueling without dropping performance or having flameouts.

I have seen often cars working great at 5min qualification heats, and then having several flameouts in 30 minutes finals.