Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Who knows...

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Seems like they went through some effort to raise the front of the fuel tank on the G4s(metal washer under normal tank mount) compared to on the Mongoose. Why?

Were some people having fuel flow problems to the back of the tank? Or is this simply to help the tank sit above the screw heads on the upper deck?

Motorman2

It improves filling of the tank, it allows the front to sit a little higher than the rear.

On question about the steering servo. yes it is in the same place kinda. location wise yes, but it moved rearward about 4 MM, clearance with the bulkhead is no longer an issue. It had to move because the bellcrank required it to do so.

Chassis length is still the same. If you are using the new G4S rear shock tower yes the rear body posts moved forward as did the carbon part of the shock tower. This was to allow you to remove the shock tower assembly from the car without dismanteling it. The evo car required using the loder k factory shock tower required the carbon part to be removed to access the four screws that hold it to the bulkheads. On the G4S this is no longer required.

Motorman2

No they are not. without the hole it just takes a little more finess to bleed the shocks properly. once the cap is on you have to slowly tighten doen the cap with the rod pushed all the way. when you get it to where it just starts to get tight let go of the rod and tighten the cap. If the shock rod rebounds fast you need to push it back up and loosen and re tighten the cap. you just want the rod to rebound at a slow rate. The hole mod works but the hole must be just below the edge of the baldder to work. If you get the hole above it it won't do anything.

Motorman2

RC revolution there are plenty of shops that can service you. what is the name of your local shop. Direct them to us and we can assist you.

Motorman2

RC
if your breaking parts at 20 mph your in trouble man. TM uses the highest quality dow plastics. Infact a more expensive blend than most all the other makers. The plastic is the same as was used on the EVO mongoose car. We smack stuff hard at 60 and rarely break parts, maybe a front knuckle or a rear arm but thats it, and it takes a heck of a crash to do that. I've had my cars hit full tilt by 1/8th scale cars and broke nothing and my cars were sitting still. Once I was hit by an 1/8th in the back while my car was parked and it only tore off a rear arm. His Kyosho had the whole left front corner missing off it.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

well this is what happened


I came out of a turn and my rear smacked the board and the rear plate peice, the one that holds the 2 rear a-arms together, broke where the screw goes in under the chassis, so I don't know how it broke, but I wasn't going too fast when I hit

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

oh an my LHS is Aces Nitro Hobby Shop here is the link

http://www.acesnitrorc.com/

lazarus

iTrader: (11)

Just confirmed, the G4 is back in stock in both versions but going fast. Contact the guys at www.evolutionhobbies.com

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

can anyone hook me up with a setup for the mongoose?


I am running this right now

ride height 6.5mm all around
toe front - 0
toe rear - -1
Camber is 0 all around
and my droop is 3mm front and 4mm rear


I dont have setup gauges yet so all I have is a caliper.


any ideas?

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the answer


Nope...still using the Mongoose shock towers.

I guess I'll just have to chalk the odd body fit up to 'one of those things'. It wasn't a big deal, just wondering if something had changed.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

rcevo,

Dialed setups tend to vary based on track and driver but I would suggest you start by increasing your rear tow & putting some camber in the car.

I would suggest you start with 2deg front and 3deg rear camber along with 2-3deg (per side) rear tow.

For the parking lot track I have been running lately I am starting my front tires @ 60mm with a 62mm rear for quals or a 63mm rear for mains. the 2-3mm split has been working well for with an 19T brake pulley and 27 & 20T side pulleys. If you are using the 19T brake along with the 27 & 19T side pulleys you may want to reduce that split to 1mm until you can get the 20T side pulley or the 18T brake pulley.

I was informed that the team mostly runs a droop setting of 0F 3-4R with a 60 & 63mm tires. I haven't measured up travel with these figures but it looks like from a 5mm ride height it gives about 4-5mm up travel in the rear and about 2mm in the front.

Hopefully this will give you a good place to start and once your at the track use the quals to experiment with the car, there is no substitution for 1st hand experience.

Mark

D-man

iTrader: (4)

Rcrevolution,

I think that you sould go with Mtveten setup. I would start there.
This will make your car easyer to drive.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

well I dont have setup gauges right now so im stuck with out a paddle, unless u can tell me how much I should do it in mm like top pviotball and lower pviot ball.

Im not racing competitively yet but I would like to know what my car runs like dailed in.


so for now I have to run 0 Camber cause i have no other way of seting it, and for droop isnt 0 drooptoo extreme? thats nothing my track isnt 100% smooth it has some rocks so i think 0 droop will kill me.

thats why i ride 6.5mm cause of the rocks

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

You can use a simple caber gauge to set the camber. A downstop setting of 0 in the front gives about 2mm of up travel from a 5mm ride height so I would suggest you set the car for 2mm up travel from whayever ride height you choose.

Mark