Team Magic G4
05-10-2007, 03:23 AM
#6511
I just got my G4S!!!! Its still in the box even!!! It just sucks knowing that there will be a new model out soon. I just upgraded from the G4 that i got 2 months ago. I started with the mongoose G4 to get into on road racing on a budget. Then I started pricing the upgrades and decided to cough up the dough for a new G4S. Even if the + is still the G4S platform. If they do come out with a upgrade kit, imagine how much it'll cost? I don't think it will be anywhere near the current G4 to G4S upgrades's cost. Gee, with the cost of the ED trans and quick change front end, it'll be ALOT more than the current upgrade kit! For me? I like to have the most current models available without having to upgrade 6months or a year or whatever. with TM's website showing a new model "comming Soon", it won't be long that they'll come out with a G5. TM is beginning to follow in Kyosho's footstep with the RRR models and SP1- SP2. I konw that I don't HAVE to upgrade to the + with the G4S still being competitive, but still if I knew that TM will be comming out with a car with all those uprades and tuning options, I would have waited. 
JMHO.
05-10-2007, 04:13 AM
#6513
Gansei u lucky dog 
How id u get that ???
TM send u some special parts
How id u get that ???
TM send u some special parts
05-10-2007, 05:46 AM
#6514
NEESH, nothing wrong with your decision, I bought my G4S couple of months ago and so happy with it.. IMO, it will take some time for TM to distribute G4+...
Asil
Asil
05-10-2007, 05:46 AM
#6515
very nice gansei...........
05-10-2007, 05:51 AM
#6516
Originally Posted by gtrmx
have you tried 3hobby.net?
Thanks to all for assistance.
05-10-2007, 05:55 AM
#6517
Originally Posted by gansei
i got the G4+ !!!
pu-hahahahahaha~
pu-hahahahahaha~
05-10-2007, 05:56 AM
#6518
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
After reading a lot of the previous posts in this thread, the G4+ better be a replacement. Why branch off another car that fares no better than the current G4S? That makes no sense to me. If a company is going to introduce that many changes, the car should be better on the track and on the pit table than it's predecessors. Simple as that. It's not as if the G4S doesn't have any issues.
With all the mods that you guys have been doing to your cars, would you feel confortable competing with an out-of-the-box G4S? That's definitely something to think about.
When the RRR Evo came out, I could not believe that they took several steps backwards in comparison to the RRR WCE. But Kyosho didn't upgrade the RRR WCE - they upgraded the standard RRR. IMO, it wasn't until they released the Evo WCE that they were back on par with what was expected of the RRR kit.
I think it's good that TM is releasing the G4+. I hope it addresses the many issues have been identified by the user community as possible. The G4S is still competitive and it's not like you have to toss it in the rubbish bin - but I don't think it will be as good on the track and on the pit table as the G4+ and it's successor.
Just my 2 cents.
With all the mods that you guys have been doing to your cars, would you feel confortable competing with an out-of-the-box G4S? That's definitely something to think about.
When the RRR Evo came out, I could not believe that they took several steps backwards in comparison to the RRR WCE. But Kyosho didn't upgrade the RRR WCE - they upgraded the standard RRR. IMO, it wasn't until they released the Evo WCE that they were back on par with what was expected of the RRR kit.
I think it's good that TM is releasing the G4+. I hope it addresses the many issues have been identified by the user community as possible. The G4S is still competitive and it's not like you have to toss it in the rubbish bin - but I don't think it will be as good on the track and on the pit table as the G4+ and it's successor.
Just my 2 cents.
When I assemble it alongside the rest of the cars in the shed, I will endeavour to keep it stock. I reckon it would be o.k. with spool up front, possibly better with front gear diff. Definately to be built before my XRay NT1.
05-10-2007, 06:55 AM
#6519
My G4+?
My G4+? No!!!
TM sended to me only Front Bulk and Bracket.
i did not purchase speed front bulk system parts for FEMCA 2007
so TM sended it to me urgently.. G4+ parts ^^
TM sended to me only Front Bulk and Bracket.
i did not purchase speed front bulk system parts for FEMCA 2007
so TM sended it to me urgently.. G4+ parts ^^
05-10-2007, 07:19 AM
#6521
ok tonight i looked at my spur gear problems. i know the engine screws to the mount were the main culprit, but i want to sort this out once and for all.
so i looked at the 2 speed shaft with the engine removed. i stated to ZOOM on sunday about a bit of movement from the bearing that sits in the alloy side brace. seems a wear pattern of load has caused this. the alloy is shiny on one section of the side plate. so remedy was to pin punch around the bearing hole to close up the worn section. no wno more side movement from the shaft. so refitted the engine. with the 2nd spur fitted to the shaft, i set the mesh. couldnt get it square on pinion. but it meshed ok. so now fit 1st spur. mesh was too loose. so i moved the engineto mesh 1st correctly. then removed it again to see how the 2nd gear mesh was. the engine wasnt square to the spurs. so this remedy was to make the engine mount screw holes in the chassis, bigger towards the rear diff. then made the cutout or countersunk section bigger also. so i could now move the engione a bit closer to the rear diff. i then reset the mesh and now the engine is square and the mesh is 100% better. this with the removal of 2 speed shaft movement, i hope fixes the spur problem for me.
so i looked at the 2 speed shaft with the engine removed. i stated to ZOOM on sunday about a bit of movement from the bearing that sits in the alloy side brace. seems a wear pattern of load has caused this. the alloy is shiny on one section of the side plate. so remedy was to pin punch around the bearing hole to close up the worn section. no wno more side movement from the shaft. so refitted the engine. with the 2nd spur fitted to the shaft, i set the mesh. couldnt get it square on pinion. but it meshed ok. so now fit 1st spur. mesh was too loose. so i moved the engineto mesh 1st correctly. then removed it again to see how the 2nd gear mesh was. the engine wasnt square to the spurs. so this remedy was to make the engine mount screw holes in the chassis, bigger towards the rear diff. then made the cutout or countersunk section bigger also. so i could now move the engione a bit closer to the rear diff. i then reset the mesh and now the engine is square and the mesh is 100% better. this with the removal of 2 speed shaft movement, i hope fixes the spur problem for me.
05-10-2007, 08:24 AM
#6522
Originally Posted by gansei
My G4+? No!!!
TM sended to me only Front Bulk and Bracket.
i did not purchase speed front bulk system parts for FEMCA 2007
so TM sended it to me urgently.. G4+ parts ^^
TM sended to me only Front Bulk and Bracket.
i did not purchase speed front bulk system parts for FEMCA 2007
so TM sended it to me urgently.. G4+ parts ^^
Good for u
Glad you got sorted.
Great of TM to get u sorted for the FEMCA event.
Hope u can give us some feed back on the parts they sent u
If they sent just that to you then i guess we could request that it be bought on its own as a "+ front end kit" and the new rear as a "+ rear end kit"
05-10-2007, 09:43 AM
#6523
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
ok tonight i looked at my spur gear problems. i know the engine screws to the mount were the main culprit, but i want to sort this out once and for all.
so i looked at the 2 speed shaft with the engine removed. i stated to ZOOM on sunday about a bit of movement from the bearing that sits in the alloy side brace. seems a wear pattern of load has caused this. the alloy is shiny on one section of the side plate. so remedy was to pin punch around the bearing hole to close up the worn section. no wno more side movement from the shaft. so refitted the engine. with the 2nd spur fitted to the shaft, i set the mesh. couldnt get it square on pinion. but it meshed ok. so now fit 1st spur. mesh was too loose. so i moved the engineto mesh 1st correctly. then removed it again to see how the 2nd gear mesh was. the engine wasnt square to the spurs. so this remedy was to make the engine mount screw holes in the chassis, bigger towards the rear diff. then made the cutout or countersunk section bigger also. so i could now move the engione a bit closer to the rear diff. i then reset the mesh and now the engine is square and the mesh is 100% better. this with the removal of 2 speed shaft movement, i hope fixes the spur problem for me.
so i looked at the 2 speed shaft with the engine removed. i stated to ZOOM on sunday about a bit of movement from the bearing that sits in the alloy side brace. seems a wear pattern of load has caused this. the alloy is shiny on one section of the side plate. so remedy was to pin punch around the bearing hole to close up the worn section. no wno more side movement from the shaft. so refitted the engine. with the 2nd spur fitted to the shaft, i set the mesh. couldnt get it square on pinion. but it meshed ok. so now fit 1st spur. mesh was too loose. so i moved the engineto mesh 1st correctly. then removed it again to see how the 2nd gear mesh was. the engine wasnt square to the spurs. so this remedy was to make the engine mount screw holes in the chassis, bigger towards the rear diff. then made the cutout or countersunk section bigger also. so i could now move the engione a bit closer to the rear diff. i then reset the mesh and now the engine is square and the mesh is 100% better. this with the removal of 2 speed shaft movement, i hope fixes the spur problem for me.
Regarding the motor mount screws it is important to NOT USE the stock screws that come with the car, their solid flat heads has a tendency to slip & distort the chassis around the motor mount. The best solution is to use flat heads screws with counter sunk washers. The self centering washers will ensure the screws are perfectly straight and not slip.
Mark
05-10-2007, 09:56 AM
#6524
RC Pro and Team Magic
RC Pro and Team Magic will be developing a Team Magic RTR Sedan Class this year. We will introduce it at select events this year with plans to run the full season in 2008.
This class is designed to bring those RTR Sedans out to the track. This is classified as a beginners class and racers that run in the other RC Pro classes can't compete. This class will compete for points with a slight difference from the current national points setup for the other classes.
The RTR class is aimed toward the local racers and because of this we will determine the Champion from the division points only. Meaning anyone that runs this class has a chance to win the top prize without having to travel to the national finals.
The Team Magic RTR Sedan Class will be ran at the National Finals in a non-points class. The top prize for the champion is a Team Magic G4S RTR supplied by the class sponsor Team Magic.
The rules are very simple. This class is open to any RTR 1/10 (Nitro) Sedan.
You can only change the following from stock form:
Tires, shock oil, springs, servos and receiver.
If you must change the motor it must be with the same motor RTR that was in the car from the manufacturer.
No chassis hopups allowed meaning chassis plates, shock towers etc.
The following races will run the Team Magic RTR Sedan Class this year.
RAMS, Frantic (NY), Fastlane (KC), Gulf Coast (Houston) and the Finals.. one Great Lakes division event will also be announced.
This class is designed to bring those RTR Sedans out to the track. This is classified as a beginners class and racers that run in the other RC Pro classes can't compete. This class will compete for points with a slight difference from the current national points setup for the other classes.
The RTR class is aimed toward the local racers and because of this we will determine the Champion from the division points only. Meaning anyone that runs this class has a chance to win the top prize without having to travel to the national finals.
The Team Magic RTR Sedan Class will be ran at the National Finals in a non-points class. The top prize for the champion is a Team Magic G4S RTR supplied by the class sponsor Team Magic.
The rules are very simple. This class is open to any RTR 1/10 (Nitro) Sedan.
You can only change the following from stock form:
Tires, shock oil, springs, servos and receiver.
If you must change the motor it must be with the same motor RTR that was in the car from the manufacturer.
No chassis hopups allowed meaning chassis plates, shock towers etc.
The following races will run the Team Magic RTR Sedan Class this year.
RAMS, Frantic (NY), Fastlane (KC), Gulf Coast (Houston) and the Finals.. one Great Lakes division event will also be announced.
05-10-2007, 03:45 PM
#6525
Originally Posted by mtveten
The failures result from the the 2spd bearings slipping in the housing when the gear engages. The best fix is to drill out the spacer between the bearings and press fit a single larger bearing kike Mugen does. If you don't have access to the equipment needed to do the drill / press fit mod then simply replace your worn housing and ca new bearings in place. The ca fix doesn't hold up as well as the press fit mod but should stay solid a full season or close to it.
Regarding the motor mount screws it is important to NOT USE the stock screws that come with the car, their solid flat heads has a tendency to slip & distort the chassis around the motor mount. The best solution is to use flat heads screws with counter sunk washers. The self centering washers will ensure the screws are perfectly straight and not slip.
Mark
Regarding the motor mount screws it is important to NOT USE the stock screws that come with the car, their solid flat heads has a tendency to slip & distort the chassis around the motor mount. The best solution is to use flat heads screws with counter sunk washers. The self centering washers will ensure the screws are perfectly straight and not slip.
Mark