Serpent 705
03-30-2003, 05:40 PM
#916
adn for the edges they should just be rounded???
03-30-2003, 06:17 PM
#917
Not necessarily. Most people only say to round the edges as it helps prevent premature spliting of the plies or splintering. You can leave the edges straight also. As long as they are properly sealed it shouldnt make too much of a difference really.
03-30-2003, 06:22 PM
#918
ok.. thx a lot
03-30-2003, 06:26 PM
#919
Re: Re: Bodies
Originally posted by tennessee
Kept having the old "tuck & fold " with the 2.1
Have since gone back to the old stratus
Kept having the old "tuck & fold " with the 2.1
Have since gone back to the old stratus
03-30-2003, 06:27 PM
#920
Re: Protoform Bodies
Originally posted by DSR
Do any of you guys have any problems fitting protoform bodies to your 705? I'm in the process of painting a protoform civic, and the wheel wells don't match up at all. I think it may be the front bumper that's pushing the body back. The wheel wells are about a half inch off.
Any suggestions to this problem would be great. I know the HPI bodies don't line up, but I thought the protoform bodies were supposed to fit nicely.
Do any of you guys have any problems fitting protoform bodies to your 705? I'm in the process of painting a protoform civic, and the wheel wells don't match up at all. I think it may be the front bumper that's pushing the body back. The wheel wells are about a half inch off.
Any suggestions to this problem would be great. I know the HPI bodies don't line up, but I thought the protoform bodies were supposed to fit nicely.
03-30-2003, 06:53 PM
#921
Re: Gear Ratio / Setup Sheet
Originally posted by JABRONI
I found the Setup Sheet, I just had to sign in to Mytsn and then Reload the page !!!!!!!
As far as the gearing goes, does anyone have the Serpent Part Numbers #'s handy for the 47-22-17 set up, it may help alot for my situation ???????
Scott
I found the Setup Sheet, I just had to sign in to Mytsn and then Reload the page !!!!!!!
As far as the gearing goes, does anyone have the Serpent Part Numbers #'s handy for the 47-22-17 set up, it may help alot for my situation ???????
Scott
22T brake pulley - 909242
17T side layshaft pulley - 801252
If you use a FPS rear diff (808390), you need the 808396 47T FPS diff pulley. If you use a solid rear axle (808370), it would already have come with the 808373 47T solid axle diff pulley.
03-30-2003, 06:56 PM
#922
Originally posted by tennessee
I need a camera
I need a camera
... so that you can post pictures of your MTX-3 here?
03-30-2003, 08:36 PM
#923
Tech Adept
front sway bar
Im not sure if it has been discussed on this forum already but when changing the front sway bar what are the usual results of the changes(on imp pro) and also with the pro spacers are there any benefits in changing the height from 7mm. thanks
03-30-2003, 09:29 PM
#924
Re: Gear Ratio / Setup Sheet
Originally posted by JABRONI
InitialD,
I completely agree with your opinions on the gearing issue !!!
Unfortunately here in Arizona I actually ran a 12/15 using the old clutch set-up because our straightaway is only approx 100 + ft long. It is basically an Electric Car set up, however it is fun.
When we make it over to California to race the Crystal Park Track and the Ron Paris/Speedline Race each year in Vegas, I still never utilize a higher gear than a 15/18 on the Centax Set-up.
I think Serpents always have been hard to get to rock and roll off of the start or out of the corners.
Beleive me , I've had Toffelmire, Tennesee, Baker, etc... Help out with Clutch set-ups, engines (currently using the Novamega SX 12 RE MS engine) and although it makes up for some of the low end I am looking for I am still wanting a 13 or 14 tooth gear if at all possible.
InitialD,
I completely agree with your opinions on the gearing issue !!!
Unfortunately here in Arizona I actually ran a 12/15 using the old clutch set-up because our straightaway is only approx 100 + ft long. It is basically an Electric Car set up, however it is fun.
When we make it over to California to race the Crystal Park Track and the Ron Paris/Speedline Race each year in Vegas, I still never utilize a higher gear than a 15/18 on the Centax Set-up.
I think Serpents always have been hard to get to rock and roll off of the start or out of the corners.
Beleive me , I've had Toffelmire, Tennesee, Baker, etc... Help out with Clutch set-ups, engines (currently using the Novamega SX 12 RE MS engine) and although it makes up for some of the low end I am looking for I am still wanting a 13 or 14 tooth gear if at all possible.
Well, it's actually nice to hear the engine breath out and screams on the high end at the end of a straight
Kinda gives you a sense of satisfaction...You can still use the old style Centax clutchbell on the 705. Replace the new one way bearing for the 2 speed with the older one meant for the Impulse / Impulse PRO (9633). Use the 50T spur (801420) and it will mesh correctly with the old clutchbell. You can still use the new 2nd gear spurs.
The old clutchbell uses the same bearings and the Centax I clutch with the exception that it uses a 5 x 8 x 2.5 flanged bearing to replace the 5 x 8 x 4 normal bearing in the rear of the clutchbell. The thrust bearing is the same as the Centax I which is 4 mm instead of 5 mm on the new Centax II.
03-30-2003, 10:17 PM
#925
Re: front sway bar
Originally posted by bt
Im not sure if it has been discussed on this forum already but when changing the front sway bar what are the usual results of the changes(on imp pro) and also with the pro spacers are there any benefits in changing the height from 7mm. thanks
Im not sure if it has been discussed on this forum already but when changing the front sway bar what are the usual results of the changes(on imp pro) and also with the pro spacers are there any benefits in changing the height from 7mm. thanks
Using shorter spacers than 7mm or no spacers at all will result in the roll center being higher. Ideal for lower traction tracks. For rubber tire setup, it is better to take out the 7mm spacer completely because rubber tires do not require large amounts of camber change.
Front sway bars increases the stiffness of your front and hence decreases your front traction but increases your rear traction. It also makes sure that the front wheels stay horizontal and that either side of the wheels stays flat and do not lift up when taking corners. Good when running on high traction tracks.
03-31-2003, 11:47 AM
#926
Re: Protoform Bodies
Originally posted by DSR
Do any of you guys have any problems fitting protoform bodies to your 705? I'm in the process of painting a protoform civic, and the wheel wells don't match up at all. I think it may be the front bumper that's pushing the body back. The wheel wells are about a half inch off.
Any suggestions to this problem would be great. I know the HPI bodies don't line up, but I thought the protoform bodies were supposed to fit nicely.
Do any of you guys have any problems fitting protoform bodies to your 705? I'm in the process of painting a protoform civic, and the wheel wells don't match up at all. I think it may be the front bumper that's pushing the body back. The wheel wells are about a half inch off.
Any suggestions to this problem would be great. I know the HPI bodies don't line up, but I thought the protoform bodies were supposed to fit nicely.
03-31-2003, 12:28 PM
#927
Re: Re: Gear Ratio / Setup Sheet
Originally posted by InitialD
I think you will love it if you got hold of the old 13T/16T fixed pinions on the old Centax clutchbell. Pair it up with the 47T, 22T and 17T mod, you get to where you are with your old 12T/15T clutch shoe setup. With the Centax type clutch, it gives you every bit of the power from the engine to the wheels. No power loss from clutch slippage like what you get on the old finger type clutch.
Well, it's actually nice to hear the engine breath out and screams on the high end at the end of a straight Kinda gives you a sense of satisfaction...
You can still use the old style Centax clutchbell on the 705. Replace the new one way bearing for the 2 speed with the older one meant for the Impulse / Impulse PRO (9633). Use the 50T spur (801420) and it will mesh correctly with the old clutchbell. You can still use the new 2nd gear spurs.
The old clutchbell uses the same bearings and the Centax I clutch with the exception that it uses a 5 x 8 x 2.5 flanged bearing to replace the 5 x 8 x 4 normal bearing in the rear of the clutchbell. The thrust bearing is the same as the Centax I which is 4 mm instead of 5 mm on the new Centax II.
I think you will love it if you got hold of the old 13T/16T fixed pinions on the old Centax clutchbell. Pair it up with the 47T, 22T and 17T mod, you get to where you are with your old 12T/15T clutch shoe setup. With the Centax type clutch, it gives you every bit of the power from the engine to the wheels. No power loss from clutch slippage like what you get on the old finger type clutch.
Well, it's actually nice to hear the engine breath out and screams on the high end at the end of a straight
Kinda gives you a sense of satisfaction...You can still use the old style Centax clutchbell on the 705. Replace the new one way bearing for the 2 speed with the older one meant for the Impulse / Impulse PRO (9633). Use the 50T spur (801420) and it will mesh correctly with the old clutchbell. You can still use the new 2nd gear spurs.
The old clutchbell uses the same bearings and the Centax I clutch with the exception that it uses a 5 x 8 x 2.5 flanged bearing to replace the 5 x 8 x 4 normal bearing in the rear of the clutchbell. The thrust bearing is the same as the Centax I which is 4 mm instead of 5 mm on the new Centax II.
HI!
Just to jump into the topic. I played w/ the old centax clutch and I found that it was really useful for a smaller track and I would say a medium track. I used 13/17 pinoin 45 49 driven or spur gear. I was really impressed on the results. My clutch engage in the exact time time when my motor hits its RPM. The exact vaporization of my fuel. I would say the accelration of the car change tremendously compared to 15/19 pinoin and 48/45 spur gear. Honestly, The NTc3 around our area were very popular in a smaller track and I have to find a way to @ least have the almost the same acceleration w/ the NTC3 especially in tight corners. I also tried 13/17 and 48/45. It was faster, but I always brake my 48, it just would not reach. Whatever I do, move the motor closer still would not work. Or else I will brake my 45 spur gear because its to close for the second gear. I also changed my ball diff into a rear solid axle. For some reason, I feel like I am driving my 950. Not totally the same but I get this great feeling and confidence w/ the car especailly in traction.
Last edited by it; 03-31-2003 at 12:37 PM.
03-31-2003, 01:44 PM
#928
Reciever pack!
Hi! I just got a reciever packs for the 705 but I think it for the veteq, the pack is black, anyway do you guys think it still will work on the 705? Also on the pack it have three wires one black, one red and one white or yellow, my chargers only charges the two wires red and black, do you guys think the white or yellow one is needed? Thank for the help!
03-31-2003, 05:52 PM
#930
Re: Re: Re: Gear Ratio / Setup Sheet
Originally posted by it
HI!
Just to jump into the topic. I played w/ the old centax clutch and I found that it was really useful for a smaller track and I would say a medium track. I used 13/17 pinoin 45 49 driven or spur gear. I was really impressed on the results. My clutch engage in the exact time time when my motor hits its RPM. The exact vaporization of my fuel. I would say the accelration of the car change tremendously compared to 15/19 pinoin and 48/45 spur gear. Honestly, The NTc3 around our area were very popular in a smaller track and I have to find a way to @ least have the almost the same acceleration w/ the NTC3 especially in tight corners. I also tried 13/17 and 48/45. It was faster, but I always brake my 48, it just would not reach. Whatever I do, move the motor closer still would not work. Or else I will brake my 45 spur gear because its to close for the second gear. I also changed my ball diff into a rear solid axle. For some reason, I feel like I am driving my 950. Not totally the same but I get this great feeling and confidence w/ the car especailly in traction.
HI!
Just to jump into the topic. I played w/ the old centax clutch and I found that it was really useful for a smaller track and I would say a medium track. I used 13/17 pinoin 45 49 driven or spur gear. I was really impressed on the results. My clutch engage in the exact time time when my motor hits its RPM. The exact vaporization of my fuel. I would say the accelration of the car change tremendously compared to 15/19 pinoin and 48/45 spur gear. Honestly, The NTc3 around our area were very popular in a smaller track and I have to find a way to @ least have the almost the same acceleration w/ the NTC3 especially in tight corners. I also tried 13/17 and 48/45. It was faster, but I always brake my 48, it just would not reach. Whatever I do, move the motor closer still would not work. Or else I will brake my 45 spur gear because its to close for the second gear. I also changed my ball diff into a rear solid axle. For some reason, I feel like I am driving my 950. Not totally the same but I get this great feeling and confidence w/ the car especailly in traction.
What are you currently using? The 705 or the Impulse PRO? If you're using the old Centax clutchbell, you need the 50T (the 801420 specifically and NOT to be confused with the new Centax II 50T 902450) that comes stock with your Impulse / Impulse PRO to mesh correctly with the fixed pinions on it. The diameter of this 50T is slightly larger than the 49T, 48T and 47T 1st gear spurs normally used for the Centax clutch. With this 50T, you do not need to slant your engine to mesh the gear properly. I believe this is the reason why your 1st gear spurs are breaking... As for the 2nd speed spurs, you can use the 44T, 45T and the 46T spurs meant for the Centax clutch.To be able to use the old Centax clutchbell on the 705, you need to use this 50T (801420) with the older 1st gear spur drive flange one way bearing (9633) that comes with the Impulse / Impulse PRO. Spacing will be correct and the pinions will mesh correctly with the spurs. The 2nd speed LC spurs on the 705 can be left as is.
Can you share your setup with the solid rear axle? What are you using in the front? One way or diff? What tires? Thanks.