InitialD

Do let us know when you find out...

That can be a candicate for exchange too

markp27

I've changed back to the original rear arm and the pivot balls still have to be turned out further on the right hand side, maybe only 1mm this time - hmm this is pretty strange. Are your pivot balls turned out on the left and right by the same amount?

markp27

Boy-oh-boy look at the dirt on that baby Just aswell you don't have a D1

markp27

Seriously though

If I turn the collar down to the position you have, my ride height would be 8 or 9mm - how do you compensate for that?

InitialD

Damn, that's even on my spare shocks I guess the only way to hide the dirt on the shocks that are on my car is to purposely out focus the camera

InitialD

I had a look at my car (after giving a good scrub on it). It looks as though that the left side is slightly longer than the right. Then again, I need to make sure the toe in and camber settings are correct and equal. I made some rough changes to the right rear pivot balls because I had the rear wheel whacked by another car so hard that the right side of the wheel became from toe in to toe out

Ok, here's a non D1 view of the rear end of my car

markp27

WOW!! You pivot balls are turned pretty far out compared to mine - what camber/toe-in/ride height have you got?

I checked on my hudy board and it seems that the rear track width is equi-distant! The 1mm difference in the pivot balls must compensate for some slight misalignment in the car!

I see you mount the shocks on the blocks - don't you leave the carbon braces on for stability?

Anyway, here is a non-D1 picture from the top of my car

InitialD

You are right. It could be that the rear shocks that are mounted to the rear of my car are mounted on the bearing blocks. It's been some time I've used the rear shock towers. I checked and the shock lengths in fully extended in locked position are about 77 mm for the rear.

I guess this would be a good question to post at mytsn 705 forum to the team drivers. For me personally, I think it only makes sense that the shocks should be set so that it can extend and push the arms out to the end of the downstop droop limit. Maybe you'll get a differing answer from them. I would not know.

It may seem that to get a rear ride height of 6 mm (instead of 8 mm) with 64 mm tires, you need to turn up the shock collars which in the end will run the risk of not having the shocks extend it's full length on it's own. Well, don't be surprised that you'll get advise that you should run 60 mm tires instead

markp27

I suppose if I wanted to turn down the collars further, then I'd have to change the downstop - this must be the factor which determins whether you must extend the shock like you have?

For me with my +7 downstop, the springs are under tension on the downstop.

I've still a lot to learn!! Hopefully I'll get some runtime at the weekend and not have another big accident The speed and ability is coming slowly - just I get a bit ambitious at times but the last accident wasn't avoidable - throttle jammed

I think you mentioned about putting an elastic bad around the throttle mechanism, is that right?

InitialD

I have mine set at -4 camber and +2 for toe in. Ride height was 7.5 on a fresh 66 mm tire.

You can use without the carbon braces. I use the optional 808139 shock tower from the Impact after I broke my stock one when my car flipped over On mytsn, you will only find it as a 808138 set. They should sell the shock tower alone separately.

Woow Is that dirt or just the high background noise with high ISO?

markp27

Ah yeah, I've seen the carbon brace before - is it a track dependant thing, whether to mount the shocks on the blocks?

I'll be sending another order off to rccarinternational (boy these guys are getting rich from me!!!!), I want to carry an amount of spares, so that I don't have a gap of a couple of weeks when I have an accident

That all high ISO Mr D!

InitialD

I think I have mine on +7 too. I guess like what you say if the shocks manage to push the arms down to the downstop end limit, I guess it should be ok. I actually had mine turned down that way because I was not getting enough ride height and at that shock angle at the bearing block, the effect of turning down the shock collars have less direct effect on raising the ride height as when compared to the shock at a steeper angle.

Being ambitous is good at times... Especially if you know that you can only do so much of driving on the weekends

Yes This is what I have (again a non D1 picture to ensure a dust free car ) on the carb Oh well, the filter doesn't do justice to the pic

Diesel Racer

I have this exact same problem with my Impulse Pro, but when you have it on the Hudy Set-Up system all the dimensions are correct and the measurement from the outside of both the left and right rear wheels to the centre line of the chassis are the same. I figure that the right rear wishbone must be slighty shorter than the left, there doesn't appear to be any adverse affect on the way the car handles.

Regards

Mark

markp27

Cheers Mark! Well my nerves are feeling a bit better now

Mark.

markp27

Are you using a photoshop dust filter there?

What filter are you using on your carb? Do all filters need oiling?
The elastic band shows up well, even on non-D1 pics