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Old 01-18-2003, 11:41 AM   #226
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Thanks. Tell me about the Novamega engine? What about tires?
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Old 01-18-2003, 10:29 PM   #227
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Novamega engine are nice but pricey.........

They are novarossi based motor so you can get the MT-12 or a RB motor for a cheaper price.
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Old 01-19-2003, 03:03 AM   #228
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Wink Tools for 705 Build

Hi Guys!

I've bought myself a Serpent 705 and as it is my first RC Car which I have to build, I was wondering if someone could let me know what tools I would need?

So far I've tried to assemble the shock absobers, with a few problems!! Take a look at step 1.5 from the online manual:

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?sn=7&pid=6959

I didn't thread the ball joint before turning it onto the shock rod, as it wasn't mentioned and I don't have the tools - was I correct in my assumption?

Also, if I follow the german instructions (only available online) it tells me to grip the shock rod at the point where the thread starts with side cutters - the english version says to use pliers!!! Big difference there!

Before I damage anything, I would like to make sure I have the necessary tools to do the job.
If any of you guys have built a 705, could you give me a couple of tips and maybe a list of tools you required.

Many thanks from a future 705 driver who is bursting to drive this thing!!!

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 01-19-2003, 05:35 AM   #229
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This is a good point. And while people may do it differently I use a set of needle nose pliers.

What I do is wrap a little paper around the shaft so that the pliers dont accidentally put a mark on the shaft. I then screw on the plastic end.

Other tools you will require will be screwdrivers, allen wrenches, a nice sharp hobby knife and fine grit sandpaper. You will also need pliers and cutters.

Other tools may be required but I can think of them at the minute.

Anyone else add to this
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Old 01-19-2003, 06:10 AM   #230
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Hi Modellor!

You becoming a regular advice giver for me! :-) I appreciate it!!!

So do you cut a screw thread into the ball joint before screwing it onto the shock rod? I simply let one form as I repeatedly screwed the thing on to the shock rod until it became tight, then removed it, clean out the plastic swarf which was removed in the forming of the threads, and repeat. Still I'm left with a small gap at the part of the shock rod where the thread starts - although I don't see any threads - See picture http://www.geocities.com/mps_photo/shock.jpg

Did you buy your pliers from a hardware store or model shop?

All the other items you mentioned I've already got - think I need a C-clip plier for the differential building, though.

Just waiting to get those and some oneway grease - called freewheel grease here, but in German obviously ;-)

Thanks once more.

Cheers, Mark.

Last edited by markp27; 01-19-2003 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 01-19-2003, 07:33 AM   #231
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Hi markp27,

I just let them make there own threads. I find that this gives a better fit and keeps things tight.

As for the gap. I dont think it is anything to worry about. You will always get a gap at some point depending on how long you have the shocks set as the shaft can only go so far into the shock body.

I forgot to mention C-Clip pliers. THey are normally vital on most race cars.

As for my tools. I buy all my tool from a tradesmans wholesale store here. I got them from when I worked as a Spark.

I prefer to buy dearer brand tools like Snap-on or else I use Philips or Drapers. The Snap-on are expensive but come with life-time guarantee.

Another very useful tool is a Vernier guage for measuring tie-rods and pivot ball lengths. They make life a lot easier.
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Old 01-19-2003, 07:42 AM   #232
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Ta again for the reply!! I really needed the vernier yesterday, I had to choose between two grooved (for ball-racer) washers - they look identlical except one has a 6mm hole and the other 6.2mm!!! Not too visible from eyesight alone!!! I think I'm going to be buying some more gear tomorrow :-) God this is getting expensive - already 1500 Euro yesterday!!!!

I know Snap-On from years ago in England - but I've never seen them here in Germany.

Do you use a setup bench to tune the chassis?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 01-19-2003, 07:45 AM   #233
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Just rememberd about a friend of mine in England who had his own garage - he was kitted out with all the Snap-On gear. For whatever reason, he wanted a new bit from Snap-On to replace an older version which he already had. Thinking that buying it new would cost too much, he decided to try out the life-time guarantee by taking a hammer to the object in question!!! He failed miserably!!! The Snap-On tool was intact and his hammer was broken ;-))))
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Old 01-19-2003, 07:50 AM   #234
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Yeah. I use the Integy Set-Up Station. I think it is better value than the Hudy Set. I have read a lot of posts on this topic and found many people with the same opinion.

Not only is it aluminium but it comes with a nice case and is still cheaper than the Hudy which is plastic. The markings on the Hudy also wear off making it hard to get proper readings.

Another useful tool I use is the Tweek Board. It is really useful for telling whether all four corners of the car are equally balanced.

It does get expensive. But I suppose its all part of the fun. I'll ask my dealer and try and find out who the German distributor is for Snap-On.
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Old 01-19-2003, 08:01 AM   #235
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Fantastic! Cheers, Matey!!!!

Mark.
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Old 01-19-2003, 08:05 AM   #236
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Modellor!

You becoming a regular advice giver for me! :-) I appreciate it!!!

So do you cut a screw thread into the ball joint before screwing it onto the shock rod? I simply let one form as I repeatedly screwed the thing on to the shock rod until it became tight, then removed it, clean out the plastic swarf which was removed in the forming of the threads, and repeat. Still I'm left with a small gap at the part of the shock rod where the thread starts - although I don't see any threads - See picture http://www.geocities.com/mps_photo/shock.jpg

Did you buy your pliers from a hardware store or model shop?

All the other items you mentioned I've already got - think I need a C-clip plier for the differential building, though.

Just waiting to get those and some oneway grease - called freewheel grease here, but in German obviously ;-)

Thanks once more.

Cheers, Mark.
Mark, welcome on board

Tools needed are the 1.5 mm , 2 mm, 2.5 mm and 3 mm allen wrenches for the ball joints. Additionally, you may want to get the 107581 Hudy Wrench Glowplug / Clutchnut 10 mm. It has a socket for the glow plug (comes in handy ), the 10 mm socket to tighten the Centax flywheel onto the SG shaft and on the other end, it has a 5 mm allen to tighten the aluminum adjusting nuts that secures the pivot balls. Also, it's made of Hudy steel. That tool should last you a lifetime.

You would also like to have a special wrench that holds and locks the flywheel when you tighten the 10 mm clutchnut onto the flywheel. I believe Ofna makes one.

For the Centax building, you would need the gear pinion wrench which will help you grip and lock the 15-16-17-18-19-20T pinions onto the Centax II clutchbell. Part number is 909590.

I still have the old special tool to hold Centax clutch housing while mounting the pinions with this gear pinion wrench. Part number is 909592. But on the new Centax II clutch bell, the positioning is different so the fit of this special tool is slightly off. Still, for me it's usable. I gather that Serpent would come out with a new special tool for this purpose.

The rest like modellor mentioned are tools that you would need to use to hand fit some parts.

Yes, the ball joints are pretty difficult to thread onto the shock shaft. I usually grease them first and probably like what you said, repeatedly pretread them first. I use a wire cutter to grip the shock shaft at the beginning of the thread to help me in threading the ball joints.

By measuring and following the the length given on the manual (with the help of a vernier gauge), yes, you'll end up with the very little thread on the shaft.

As for the C clip plier, yes, it's handy for the rear ball diff building. But I use the same wire cutter and by putting the sharp edge of this wire cutter in the holes of the C clip, I grip to compress it smaller so that it can go into the ball diff shaft.

As for the one way lube, get the Serpent one. Part number is 1680.

Hope that helps. If you're stuck, shoot
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Old 01-19-2003, 08:17 AM   #237
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Thanks InitialD!!!

WOW! That's quite a bit of special equipment I need there!!! Shame that Serpent didn't mention the tools in the instructions, I could have got them at the model shop - if they have them. For the Centaxx building do the Centax tools make the job easier or are they essential?

I think I may need to take a day off work this week - I'm sure I'm starting to get ill ;-))))

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 01-19-2003, 09:20 AM   #238
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Thanks InitialD!!!

WOW! That's quite a bit of special equipment I need there!!! Shame that Serpent didn't mention the tools in the instructions, I could have got them at the model shop - if they have them. For the Centaxx building do the Centax tools make the job easier or are they essential?

I think I may need to take a day off work this week - I'm sure I'm starting to get ill ;-))))

Cheers, Mark.
Well, what can I say... It's RC

These special tools are not essential but it sure does save you the agony installation / deinstallation of the Centax pinions when you start playing at different tracks. Yes, it makes installation easy. Cheers
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Old 01-19-2003, 10:20 AM   #239
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Mark, welcome on board

Tools needed are the 1.5 mm , 2 mm, 2.5 mm and 3 mm allen wrenches for the ball joints. :
Mark,

I believe you get the 1.5 mm , 2 mm, 2.5 mm and 3 mm allen wrenches with the kit. I know my 705 did came with it.

Most of these tools to built the kit you can get at any hardware store.

Don't forget the starter box.
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Old 01-19-2003, 10:32 AM   #240
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Thanks for your reply - I have the starter box :-) I thought I would have a look at it, seeing as I couldn't build the 705 any further :-((( I was surprised to see that I have to build it, too!! :-)) But it seems logical.

Boy, I can't wait to try this stuff out!!!! :-)

Cheers, Mark.
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