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Old 02-18-2007, 08:05 PM   #466
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Iv been running novarossi engines for quite some time now on my GPX4 and I can honestly say that I am quite happy with the quality and the power. And I have seen the latest .12 Nova engines, those things just pull away. I don't have any experience with the .12 OS engines but I do keep hearing that they are good value engines.
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Old 02-19-2007, 03:12 AM   #467
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OK lets not get too carried away , Mark is running Sperts tourers here in Perth . the rules have changed this year for his class. now allowing any pullstart 3 port engine. so he likes the novas this is why i said this. but as far as running non pullstart motors, i have run both OS and Nova, as well as sirio and Mega. from my experience id stick with either OS for cost and performance, and nova for that Stallion feeling,
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:44 AM   #468
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John Tan; I still run Hyper 12 motor and the second one ain't bad. Patto is right with quality though. I have only played with nitro cars for about 3 years and my pro car with Novarossi motor is a dream. The .15 Kyosho motor with my FW05T+ was a welcome relief after burning first Hyper 12. Fires up on first pull of pull starter.

I set up my RTR car with factory settings and put 30k oil in both front and rear diffs. On power/off power/on power during turn the back end lost a little traction and i couldnt drive to full potential. Does anyone have improvement on factory settings? Also I drilled out piston to 1.5mm rear shock and added 1.5mm to make front 2 hole piston with 30 weight oil and made steering worse (back end no grip). Should I go back to stock and add more toe in for rear, currently -1 degrees. Also running 37 shore all round.
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:33 AM   #469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vc05hdt
John Tan; I still run Hyper 12 motor and the second one ain't bad. Patto is right with quality though. I have only played with nitro cars for about 3 years and my pro car with Novarossi motor is a dream. The .15 Kyosho motor with my FW05T+ was a welcome relief after burning first Hyper 12. Fires up on first pull of pull starter.

I set up my RTR car with factory settings and put 30k oil in both front and rear diffs. On power/off power/on power during turn the back end lost a little traction and i couldnt drive to full potential. Does anyone have improvement on factory settings? Also I drilled out piston to 1.5mm rear shock and added 1.5mm to make front 2 hole piston with 30 weight oil and made steering worse (back end no grip). Should I go back to stock and add more toe in for rear, currently -1 degrees. Also running 37 shore all round.
Hey Mark, i see some things possibly causing you some grief. if you were running 30w oil then i would have opened just the one on front. not added. so now you have the 2 holes, try either 40 w or 50w. personally i use 50w. and your running front and rear diff ? i find 30k on the rear bit heav on our track. but may help if you run more up front, say 70k for a starting point. i didnt see too much of your car on the track, but when i saw it run into the pole on the front straight it didnt look too good. hope the car is ok. be good to know your complete setup to help some more. but also if you needed help i can also lend a hand. if the back end steps out easy, and too much steering, go for harder front spring, and try -3 toe in on rear. but one at a time. definately thicker oil up front man. then work out the rest. just PM me your setup and ill have a looksy. DONT ever give up that dream either. the pro car with the NOVA. once your on top of your setup, then it gets easier to drive and faster you get. the better you get at setup then the transition can be made. just keep it simple dont blow up the brain with the too hard basket shit, just simple.
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:34 AM   #470
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The shock debate on the G4S thread has alot of intersting points of view aye Paul? I reckon there shouldn't be any rebound, only if the shock is nearing the top of the shock cylinder and only at speed. The oil and piston holes are for tuning the spring response and the damper shouldn't behave like a bumpstop.
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:47 AM   #471
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The first round car setting wasn't bad. I thought there was room for improvement so talked to Mike. I agreed with his advice to drill out rear piston to 1.5mm and 30 weight oil. I put on one 26mm tyre by mistake on rear of car and didn't know until came back to the track with my second car after crashing Hyper. Just those two things and my rear grip was ten times worse. I possibly should have also lowered the rear ride height, toe in and posibly increased negative rear camber from stock. I will do this and try next month..... We are from simular trades so having alot of patience I have; unless hungover.
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:49 AM   #472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vc05hdt
The shock debate on the G4S thread has alot of intersting points of view aye Paul? I reckon there shouldn't be any rebound, only if the shock is nearing the top of the shock cylinder and only at speed. The oil and piston holes are for tuning the spring response and the damper shouldn't behave like a bumpstop.
very interesting indeed. i didnt get involved in that. just sat back as me and another have enough probs with out that stuff. but to be honest i think what he explained was mistaken for huge amounts of rebound. you would know cause he helped you with your shocks. i dont know what he suggested but with that thin oil and different chasis, i think was a bit gun ho. maybe one hole on rear for starters to let you get the feel of the change. but when i do my shocks they are smooth from start to go. no heavier pressure towards the fully compressed state, and rebound to about half the travel back out. but as i said i dont know how he said to do them. but just saw the end result. i do know he felt bad about it though. so he was just trying to help you out. but in another sense, i do not state i can do it better. but maybe just plain and simple. thats the way to keep it.
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:03 PM   #473
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On the subject of diff oils, using a front diff, you would be better served using a heavier oil up front than the rear. But, rather using a heavier oil, try using 10K oil in rear, keeping 30K up front?!
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Old 02-20-2007, 01:10 AM   #474
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Another trip to the hobby shop for 10k diff oil. Shocker, what do you think if put 50k in front and leave 30k in rear diff? No time to test as ultimatum with wife race once a month only. Also does the thicker diff oil makes the diff behave like a solid diff/spool?
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Old 02-20-2007, 01:36 AM   #475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vc05hdt
Another trip to the hobby shop for 10k diff oil. Shocker, what do you think if put 50k in front and leave 30k in rear diff? No time to test as ultimatum with wife race once a month only. Also does the thicker diff oil makes the diff behave like a solid diff/spool?
i would try the 10k rear diff as this is what i have ended up with and tested a few believe me. but would go 50k in front. when i had the Yokomo i used a diff in front. 10k rear and 50k front. you saw the car it was pretty good. so id suggest to try this combo out. but soley up to you man. also use a camber that wears the tires well. dont think that camber will increase grip. it will to a certain point but then you will premeturely wear your tires out.
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:00 AM   #476
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Thanks Paul Dinner Time!!
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Old 02-20-2007, 05:04 AM   #477
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Quote:
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Thanks Paul Dinner Time!!
hey Mark, must be 20 course meal, at least you eat well
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Old 02-20-2007, 07:23 AM   #478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker360
Hey John,
I can't speak of the Nova engine, for I never ran one. But those who run them and their track record, they are highly recommended. Because they are high end Italian engines, even the stock one's are going to be expensive. On the other hand, I do own and run the O.S. TZ 3 port(P) engine, and I can speak for these.
I run an EB Modified O.S. .12 TZ 3 port(P) engine, and I highly recommend one. It is user friendly, easy to tune, plenty of power & torque. This engine is tough and bullet proof! In fact, on the dynometer, it's power band is nearly linear to an electric motor! Check R/C Car's website on September 2005 product test article for proof. For the cost of an Italian stock engine, you can purchase an EB Mod, Murnan Mod, Zeppin Mod, or the new O.S. Speed Tuned TZ! Even a stock O.S. TZ can hang with any any high end stock engine! Any choice of the above is fine.
Just my two cents
Regards
Thanks...actually currently i have a offer on REX/Nova 5 port at $310 vs OS 5 port $300...which one is more worth? not sure is it modified engine on both brand...
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Old 02-20-2007, 07:26 AM   #479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genius
Iv been running novarossi engines for quite some time now on my GPX4 and I can honestly say that I am quite happy with the quality and the power. And I have seen the latest .12 Nova engines, those things just pull away. I don't have any experience with the .12 OS engines but I do keep hearing that they are good value engines.
u mean OS is suppose to be cheaper than Nova? then it will be better to get the Nova if both r about the same price at my LHS?
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Old 02-20-2007, 07:28 AM   #480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
OK lets not get too carried away , Mark is running Sperts tourers here in Perth . the rules have changed this year for his class. now allowing any pullstart 3 port engine. so he likes the novas this is why i said this. but as far as running non pullstart motors, i have run both OS and Nova, as well as sirio and Mega. from my experience id stick with either OS for cost and performance, and nova for that Stallion feeling,
ok Thanks for comparison...
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