Winner's Circle

iTrader: (2)

The OS1 and OS2 wheels are available through Xceed which is a Serpent Brand. The Xceed tires are in stock. Some of the 960 upgrades have not arrived yet but should be here shortly.

hello

iTrader: (-1)

Yes, Serpent have Wheels/tires for the OS2.

noelpcs78

I got my 960 08 here in the US but only comes with OS1.

Greg M

iTrader: (8)

Another question, I had a look at the Exceed site and see they have US and Jap foam. I've often heard the terminology, but never knew the difference. All previous foams I've bought I have not had to specify the type, just the shore and rim. Whats the difference? and also, what are the common brands using?

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

That is all it comes with, OS2 parts are available as an option (have to buy it separately), so it won't be included in the kit.

noelpcs78

Thanks. I hope it will be available the soonest.

hold on to that Picco engine we talked about or is better to get Nova or Mega ZX?

going4#1

This is a common tip but occassionally I meet racers who aren't familiar with it. Just passing it on to the 960 group.

Tip: Mounting pivot balls into ball ends

You can press a pivot ball into a ball end simply by using a 10mm buttonhead screw and a washer.

You'll notice the ball end has a 'large' side and 'small' side. In other words the ball end has a larger hole on one side. Place the pivot ball into the large side of the ball end. Thread the screw through the washer and into the top of the ball. Tighten and the ball will slowly be mounted into the ball end. See photo.

My preference is to polish the ball a little bit before putting into the ball end to ensure a very smooth action of the ball. Mount a screw into the end of the ball end. Smear a TINY bit of metal polish on the ball and using either an electric or manual screw driver and a polish cloth, rotate the ball and shine up the ball. Don't overpolish the ball. Polishing removes a small amount of material. Remove too much and you end up with a ball that slips out of the ball end too easily even on the slightest impact.

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

It's up to you, just pick the engine that you think will be the best for you, and the good news is.........I got it all!

going4#1

During construction of the 960, I found the suspension a little stiff in the rear when the rear antiroll bar was applied. Take it off, fine. Put it on, stiff.

To fix the problem, my solution was a 1mm shim on the lower arm mounting point for the antiroll bar. After adding the shim suspension was fine. Very smooth. In the photo you can see a 2mm shim I used for the camber setting. Serpent includes 2 x 1mm for each side. Anodized blue looks cooler though

These shims are 3Racing shims (I think) but you could use any maker. Cost about $3.00 for a 10 pack.

nigelnuggets

Just squeeze the ballcups slightly with a set of needlenosed pliers to achieve the right fit. Sometimes moldings from the factories can be a little tight.

I believe with what you did, by moving the pickup foward, you actually are affecting the way the rollbar is working. I believe with your current setting, the rollbar will essentially be softer, but this is all theory based upon the theory behind swaybar links on a piano wire type swaybar. When the pickups are moved forward, the setting is altered by adding preload if you will, and making it stiffer.

This is all just theory though, let us konw how the car handles!

M7H

Or take just a little bit of material away from the bottom of the ball end, the suspension doesn't move completely free because the ball end touches the lower suspension arm....

going4#1

I just checked my car and you're right. It does touch the arm a bit without the shim. I'm going to give your idea a try tonight. Thanks. I hate adding little shims here and there to fix small problems. You end up with too many small parts to lose!

going4#1

Not that the manual is wrong but I thought Serpent's assembly order for the rear uprights was a bit cumbersome. Maybe I just didn't get it. When I tried the manual's order it seem to take forever. I then tried a different order the upright went together in 5 minutes.

Maybe there is an even faster way but I found the following to be quick.

1. Press the spring (correctly oriented) into the axle
2. Install the bearings in the upright and thread the axle through
3. Thread the axle washer over the axle (in photo I used the optional conical washer)
4. Partially screw in the grub screw into the quick release lever (don't forget the Loctite!)
5. Pull the spring out of the axle a little bit, just enough to force in the quick release lever
6. Push the level back, orient with a screw driver, force in and balance the pin. Tighten the grub screw.

If anyone has an easier method, please post.

noelpcs78

would you know the part number of the conical washers.. looks neat..

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

#909228