czotalis is exactly right, a one way does provide better steering but no braking, that is why a diff gear or a solid axle will allow for braking and the solid axle would provide the same steering except it would produce a off power push.

Tried diff and didn't like it.
 

I tried the front diff with the oil that comes with the kit and didn't like it at all. It gave me understeer off-throttle going into corners, not to mention the snap-oversteer coming out of hairpin corners. It was really bad. I went back to the 1-way as it was over half a second faster per lap. Maybe the diff would work better if I chased the set-up a little, but I did not have time, as we were getting ready to start racing a short while later. I also tried a heavier oil (30,000) with the 1-way and it was slower- more oversteer off-throttle into corners. The traction was poor however. I also use drag brake to get the car to turn in better. I would call the driving style required to go fast in my car as smooth into the corner, aggressive on throttle out of the corner-Kind of like an 1/8 car.

i think it's just a personal preference, if throttle after every single coner then of course brake is needed to slow down b4 the next coner, so an oneway will not work

How to certain the piston is not at Top dead center while breaking in the engine.
 

Hi guys,

I am going to get a Novarossi 5 port engine and i had this exact prolbem before during break-in period. Piston stucked at the top dead center and i can't turn the flywheel and i need to used heat gun on every startup in break-in period. (it is pain )
Becasue i am going to get a new engine and will do that again. Can someone tell me how do i certain and tell the piston is not at Top dead center while the engine is cooling down for another tank? What will you do if the piston is at top dead center? heat gun or ?

Thanks.

I had been using the 1 way, then put my locked diff in for the smaller (heheh;) ) Florida tracks. Then one lazy day I left it in for my home track and I've searched out and built a front diff. You can accelerate harder and longer then slam on the brakes for the turn.

exactly!:nod:

When you say smaller Florida tracks I assume you mean Kissimmee, Ft Myers and Lakeland right?

I use lots of brake with the one way, you just need Teflon pads and take the time to set the brakes up right.

Can someone tell me what color of front/rear spring for good traction?
Harder spirng for good traction
Softer for loose traction ?

Thanks.

We have a medium to large size local track.
I am running stock gear 47/43 and 20/16.
What is the best combination gear for good low/top end if running in medium to large size track?

Thanks.

Hi guys,

I ordered a R40 a week ago and I just realize there's a new 2004 version comming out:flaming: I am new with on road and I currently own a RS4 Evo. Should I just sell the R40 and pratice with my RS4? Needless to say I will have to spend lots of $$$ to make it run. (very broke at moment) I might get into racing when I have better skill :nod:

How does the current R40 stock compare with MTX-3 with the same engine, mainfold, pipe, servos, etc???? I am asking because there's more MTX-3 parts than R40 locally.

Please help me out guys...

Lower arm position
 

What will they do?
A-A
B-B
C-C

Thanks

MTX-3 Hands Down!!!
Dish the RS4 away!!! (unless you drive like Hara, you can win with any car like RS4!!)
So get yourself that Mugen!

im not sure about the NS15S5 but i know the NS12S3 JP it like a rocket down the straight but you'll have to take it easy around the infield.Robbie from Mugen has one thats stupid fast.:D :D :D