the lightened fly weight gives faster throttle response.

the stock black shoes has lesser grip then the grey shoes.

you need grey shoes on higher traction track.

sorry i mean centrifugal shoes not clutch shoes.

A solid axle should be used when two or more of this conditions are meet:
- Large flowing track.
- High traction (not as high to make you traction roll, but almost).
- Rear tyre wear isn't a issue (high abrassive tracks, beware: can destroy a rear tyre set on only 3 or 4 tanks).
- You have guts to control it (car handling change a lot).

Basically a solid axle eliminates the drag associated with a gear diff (and their differential action), also eliminates rotating weight (if it's fine crafted, but some units add weight).

Some handling aspects of the car are modified. You can nail the throttle without any kind of concerns that one wheel will slip and make you a donut, all the two rear wheel push the same (ever you have the same amount of toe-in and the two tyres are of the same diameter).

A side effect of lacking of differential action at the rear, some push will be experienced (that's why is used on high traction tracks). Tyre wear (rear) will be really fast (quite scary the first times).

Nailing throttle going out of turns will be some times kinda scary as you see the rear end slides (and the one you can do is pray and nail harder the throttle).

Probably you don't need a solid axle many times, you will be ok putting a thicker oil on the diff (I went up to 50K on my rear diff), only two times I went to a solid axle.

Probably are more, but this is mainly what is and how reacts a solid axle.

A solid rear also makes braking with a front one-way easier.

/P

Heres my car. I still need to shorten the pressure line and lengthen the fuel line by adding fuel filter with tubing.

Solid Rear Diff
 

Thanks alot for the replies, now is this the same behaviour as a Negative Rear Diff or is it different?

My track is very abrasive with low traction.

Are Negative Rear Diffs available for the MTX-3?

Sami

A negative diff only acts as a solid axle when the speed is high enough. It has a clutch who engages the solid function at a preset (adjustable) speed. Otherwise it acts a normal diff.

/P

Re: Solid Rear Diff
 

Try ebay

Re: Re: Solid Rear Diff
 

that ebay shop has over 100% mark up on those kawahara items :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

McSquish and Toledo
 

Yep that was me on Monday. I ran almost 200 laps, and the car was really hooked up. I could rip the throttle anywhere on the track and know what the car would do. I finally dialed out the "unpredictableness" at high speed, and got a feel right where the"edge" is. My set-up is almost bone stock. Except for stiffer front springs and nearly vertical front sway bar. The traction was still very high on Monday and I needed the car to push just a little w/o that traction roll feeling. Yikes I hate that. I also ran 45 fronts and 40 rears. It created a nice balance between front and rear. I do want to go up to 30,000 wt rear diff oil. I'll be able to go even faster into the turns, and get on the brakes harder to set up for the turns. This gas stuff is all about who can get into the turn faster and use the brakes the best.

i have them...they work great to my liking..:nod:

i had the negative for my RR, adjustable clutch didnt quite work for me...it wasnt so adjustable anyway :(

it is adjustable provided that you dont mine to dissemble the whole rear end and the diff for "adjustment" !

Thanks Rayj, that sounds like what I'm running, except I have 42's on the rear. Do you think you will be running at Toledo often? You can never have too many sedans showing up.

Manticore,
 

Yep, Kawahara stuff is VERY expensive in the US and the supply is sometimes really bad.

Eddie could probably shed some light on the prices on Ebay, since he's the one selling them :sneaky: